The tale of travel in India for most Indians begins with a train journey. It is the beginning of an adventure, of a romantic escapade or return to grandma’s home after a year’s wait. Like blood vessels, Indian rails criss-cross across the nation carrying people, post and parcels from point A to B. But it would be a sheer understatement to call the railways just mode of transport in this country. For many the train journey is as important as the destination itself sometimes even more.

The Indian Railways has many variations. There are the express trains that connect cities and also the mountain rails travelling on their serpentine tracks. There are the locals that make life easier for big city dwellers and also the passenger trains that have more stops that the compulsory pauses between the words of a telegraph message. All in all the distinct services cover the needs of the entire nation and make train travel an adventure in itself.

Here is a peak into the many adventures that might be revealed in some of the Indian train journeys.

The Locals

The Local trains and metros running in cities like Mumbai, Delhi and Kolkata are the public domains where people greet strangers everyday on their way to work and share each other’s life history. For some it is that sacred part of the day when they are compelled to do nothing better than read a book, glance through the newspaper, say their prayers or contemplate in advance the day’s proceedings. The hubbub surrounding them dispels like the white noise giving precious moments of introspection in a hurried life.

For some multitasking working women the local train is also time to shell peas, cut okras or snap the beans for the evening meal. It is a social gathering where the lady sitting next to you does not need to be requested to help you with the peas or hold your daughter’s torn school uniform while you get busy mending the damage.

The local train journeys have their share of drama and action too. Irrespective of class, gender or age people consider it their fundamental right to grab an empty seat as soon as it is available. And this action not just requires physical agility but also verbal ability to nullify other’s claim to the prized seat through various gestures and high decibel utterances. For the mute spectators, some sitting some standing, it is a ritualistic event that changes faces but entertains every day.

The Express

These are the leading actors of the Indian railways. From Kashmir to Kanyakumari and Maharashtra to Nagaland the countrywide network of express trains is magnanimous. And considering they have to carry the weight of the second most populated country in the world, it is only just to have the world’s second largest railway network for the masses.

Most Indian households make quite elaborate plans when they have to board one of the express trains for a journey. There is the meticulous packing and the detailed food preparation. It is just to say that food is one of the reasons why Indians like traveling in trains so much. It gives an opportunity to munch on the local specialties at every stop via the station food and also relish the packed up meals made lovingly by your wife or mom at home. Some families even have specific journey meals that are especially prepared every time there is a train travel.

Your social skills are put to practice best in these trains. Many Indians believe that the reason why you are sharing your compartment with various other strangers who are travelling to the same destination is because somewhere you are connected and this connection can be sealed best by sharing meals and conversations. The moment you board a train and identify your seat, there will be people staring at you blatantly and asking the first of the series of questions to come, “Till where you are going?” The answer will help them understand many things instantly. Whether you will be a good company till the city they are also travelling to. Whether you will ask them to exchange their lower birth seat with them or whether they can propose the same thing to you. Whether you will make a good friend and be in touch even after the end of the journey. Whether your wife would share the secret of her glowing skin with their wife and much such contemplation.

Many a business deals, public debates, spiritualistic revelations and chance romantic rendezvous have been staged during these train journeys and continue to be the heart and soul of these travels every day. When your co-passenger opens the bundles of home-made goodies for you or when you exchange business cards with a man who was a stranger not an hour ago, you know that the infectious Indian rail travel bug has bitten you too.

The Luxury

Luxury trains are few plying on the Indian tracks but what lacks in quantity surely compensates with quality. The pride of Indian Luxury trains is unquestionably The Palace on Wheels that travels mostly through royal Rajasthan and promises a week long journey that is equally lavish. The Deccan Odyssey, Golden Chariot, Royal Orient are few others that pamper you in style while travelling amidst the beautiful Indian landscape, sometimes through deserts, sometimes through ravine or sometimes past the scenic sea.

Local presence is somewhat less in luxury trains because of the very reason that they are luxury coaches, reserved for the elite and the ones who can afford the royal pampering. But the journey is a good experience for those who want to experience the Indian railways minus the crowd.

Whether it is the luxury trains, the locals or the multi destination choo-chooing express trains, the train journeys in India will always leave you with an experience that you can fathom in India alone.

Image Credit

Flickr creativecommons by James Cridland, Ben Sutherland and Christian Haugen

The problem with big world cities like Mumbai is people here are always in want of the sun, free space and the green they so ruefully cut out of their lives to build their industries and urban homes. That is why every small or big opportunity they can get to reconnect with the natural world, they do so with open arms. And thankfully, around Mumbai there are still a handful of places left that have preserved the crisp, fresh smelling scents the way nature intended them to be.

Karnala is one such destination – a weekend getaway from Mumbai rather than a proper holiday spot. It does not have that many nature trails where you can get lost in or that much history buried in its depths which need hours to excavate. But it does have the marvelous distinction of being just an hour away from Mumbai and far far away from maddening crowds, obnoxious odors and soulless skyscrapers.

It is more like a conserved patch of ecosystem miraculously saved from human infestation, thriving on the outskirts of the mega city and giving its dwellers a chance to recognize and feel the glory of nature.

Karnala is situated South of Mumbai about 10 Km from the New Mumbai suburb Panvel. It does present a visible jolt initially to see a beautiful canopy of green so close to the city. As soon as you leave Panvel, in fact, the air starts to feel fresher and soon chirping birds, frolicking squirrels, butterflies, even monkeys are seen swinging from tree to tree and welcoming you to their secret den.

Karnala Bird Santuary

Karnala is a protected habitat and it is thanks to the many birds found here and its distinction of being a bird sanctuary that it has still been able to retain its natural charm. The sanctuary itself is nothing to be intimated about and provides a fantastic way to encourage kids and adults to become acquainted with plants and birds. Although the sanctuary is bisected quite harshly by the Mumbai-Goa highway, it is still a permanent home to around 150 species of birds and 40 more of the migratory kind. The best time to visit this place for bird watching is after October till February, but if you are just happy seeing a bird or two and walking in their neighborhood, you are welcome to do so all the year round.

Mountain Hike

A view that is as stunning as the spread of lush greenery around here is the Karnala Peak. It is crested by a thumb-shaped pinnacle, which is actually a volcanic plug. Many come to Karnala with dreams to conquer this very peak. If you intend to do so too, start as early as possible to save yourself from the afternoon sun.

The slope is not a challenge for the fit. You can quite easily reach the Karnala fort in an hour. This fort is mostly in ruins but has a small temple you can visit. Take time to listen and you are sure to be drawn into the the conversation of screeching langur monkeys or the twittering birds. At the base of the pinnacle awaits the stunning view of the Sahyadri Mountain ranges and the Mumbai harbor.

Thumbs- up

While the mountain trek could be for everyone, the thumbs-up pinnacle should only be reserved for expert climbers. At one side the crest is a straight rock face, but at the other end  there is scope for climbing if you have the necessary gear and the proficiency. But it is achievable and the sheer delight that comes from accomplishing such a feat is reason enough to do it.

Bed and Breakfast

The place has a couple of decent resorts and eating joints. You can also always carry your lunch with you for a picnic meal amidst the shade of the many trees. Do ensure though that you leave the place as clean and green as it was earlier. 

A good idea is to reach the sanctuary in the early hours of the morning, trek, scale the pinnacle, watch birds, eat your packed snack or meal and return by evening. The 12 hours or so that you spend here, might just be the rejuvenating escape you needed to battle it out for the next busy week.

Image Credit Elroy Serrao, Ravi Vaidyanathan & Rajkumar 1220 via wikimedia commons

When we first came to Chennai, several people told us that a visit to Dakshinachitra would be an apt introduction to the art and life of southern Indian states and would help us ‘north Indians’ feel inducted. Time flew by, months passed and finally one Sunday morning we decided to head to the road to Dakshinachitra.

As a definition, “Dakshinachitra” literally means ‘picture of the south’ and every effort has been put in by the makers of this unique exhibition to make it just that. It is a showcase of the art, craft, lifestyle and homes of traditional south Indians.

The southern states of India, namely Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Kerala and Andhra Pradesh are more often than not clustered together as one group of homogenous species. But if you intent to look beyond the coconut, rice, palm trees, curly hair and burly figures, there arises a distinct flavour and soul of each region and each state. It is this essence of the different southern states of India that Dakshinachitra brings forth. Here too the states are clustered together but they assemble keeping their diversities alive.

Entering the Wonderland

The entrance to Dakshinachitra is like entering a typical south Indian home. There are the archetypal chocolate brown pillars, the thatched roof and the door that effectively restricts the view and thus the imagination of what we may find inside. And unquestionably the inside is well worth hiding because just like Alice’s wonderland once you enter through the door, the world you see is totally different from the world you left behind.

It all begins with the craft shop, the library, the exhibition hall and the restaurant. And while these delights are tempting, it is a wise decision to visit them on the way back so as to give more time to other things in the premises spread over 10 acres of land.

Dakshinachitra is divided into different sections according to the different southern states. There is the Tamil Nadu section, the Kerala section, the Karnataka and the Andhra Pradesh section all connected via maze of brick roads lined with palms trees and other green foliage. These provide shade as well as paint the view of a vivid and green Indian countryside.

Houses and Crafts

Each section has houses, not the miniature version or models, but the actual lived-in ones dating back to 18^th and 19^th century India. You can enter them, visit the different rooms, see the utensils that the residents used, the place they said their prayers, their favourite chair and favourite window to the world. These homes are also a glimpse of the social status of the people living in it and their trade. So while the agriculturist and the merchant of Tamil Nadu have sprawling mansions, the potter’s house or the basket weaver’s mud house represent their lowly means of income and spaces they have in their homes to accommodate their trade and their families.

To give the houses more of a lived in feel and involve the visitors, there are different artisans sitting at strategic points all over the premises. Some can teach you how to make a pot, some show and help you weave a basket out of dried palm leaves, some teach block printing while some others let you buy authentic musical instruments like the Rustic ektara – the Indian crude version of the violin with a single string.

To break the monotonous pattern there are also puppet shows, glass blowing demo, and folk dance classes for the enthusiastic ones. These activities apart from entertaining also are a way to show kids and teach them something of the rich Indian heritage.

Takeaways

As mentioned earlier, Dakshinachitra has a craft shop that is worth a visit because there lies many miracles of Indian handicraft and handloom. From handbags to sarees, upholstery to jewelry, books to book marks, you will find plenty of items stored here that could bring back pleasant memories of the visit. While the trinkets like beautiful carved keyrings, earrings and pens could be grabbed in plenty, there are also some stunning antiques, showpieces and gems that would attract the real collectors of art.

Puppet of Lord Krishna

Apart from this craft shop, there are also the stalls given to different artisans from various parts of the country. These have craftsman from Manipur selling pottery and weavers from Rajasthan selling their colourful garments. There are potters from Bengal displaying the famous terracotta pots and curios and also people of Kashmir showcasing woodwork of the heavenly land of the north in this distant southern land.  

You really do not need a pocket full of money to take some of these artefacts, just ample space in your handbags and suitcases to carry all these delicate artware back home.

Our Experience

What we found in Dakshinachitra is the essence of India that is fast losing itself in the crowd of malls and pizzas. It is a superb weekend gateway when you don’t want to go far and yet leave behind all your everyday troubles. It is an excellent teacher for those of the younger generation who can touch, feel and experience art, craft and architecture that are hundreds of years old and carry forward the beacon a little longer.  It is also a means of livelihood for all the artists who are becoming as endangered as the crafts they make. It is aptly a picture of South India for a tourist who cannot make it to all the southern states but still can feel their individual charm here.

When to go

Dakshinachitra is open all through the year daily from 10.00 am till 6.00 pm except Tuesdays. There are also guest houses within the premises that can be reserved in advance to enhance your experience of a South Indian holiday.

To know more visit Dakshinachitra 

Image Credit sowri, sudhamshu , poobesh via cc/Flickr

The long cotton cloths were wrapped nicely around our heads, covering it and providing a safe resting place for the belt of the plucking basket. Stepping down, into the green carpet like hedges, we began what many around us were already busy doing. Plucking the tender leaves and a bud from the tip of the tea shrub and safely flinging it behind into the depths of the basket. But while my sister-in-law and I merely posed for the cameras, many of our co-workers were already emptying their baskets and with rhythmic dexterity nipping the buds in hundreds to start the journey of the leaf from here to one day becoming a tantalizing cup of a Nilgiri Tea straight from the tea gardens of Ooty.

My sister-in-law and me, busy plucking tea leaves

‘A little England on the rounded tops of the Nilgiri hills’ is how Amitav Ghosh described Ooty in one of his novels. Needless to say this hill town in Tamil Nadu, India delighted the British for many years as a reminiscent of their land in this eastern part of the world.

What the British though found really hard to master was the name of this hill town of southern India. ‘Udhagamandalam’ seemed quite a mouth full as did the later versions of ‘Ootacamund’ or ‘Whadacamund’. After much deliberation and discussions with the Todas, the original land owners of this place, finally the simple and succinct name Ooty was used to describe the beautiful centre point of the Nilgiri ranges.

Today, though Ooty is the name everyone utters when in search for a cool, mist- laden picturesque location with its tea and spice covered hills. Be it the weekend traveller from Bangalore, the dwellers of North India like us who mark a trip to Ooty along with a visit to other southern jewels or the tourist from overseas, keen to see every façade of India, its temples, traffic, and the hill stations dotted along the country map blessed with pleasant climate and made famous by the British since the colonial times. As a result the Ooty of today is less of a priviledged paradise and more of a crowd puller in the true sense of the phrase.

But despite the crowd, Ooty has not lost its touch to soothe your senses the moment you catch a glimpse of this town. And if it is the mountain train journey you choose to reach this destination, the transition from the smog to fog is even more rapid. This train chugs along the ratchet and pinion track giving quick glimpses of the series of piquant mountains or the ghostly pines lining the mist laden roads. It travels the curvaceous mountains, sometimes revealing the deep ravines and sometimes the limitless tea gardens. And when you finally arrive at Ooty, it is then that you realise that the train journey was not a short lived fantasy but a precinct to what is to come.

Courtesy prakhar via cc/Flickr

The town has preserved the colonial era in patches especially in the churches spread around the place and a few old homes. But what is perhaps the most visible reminder of the bygone era is the Ooty lake which was constructed by John Sullivan the first collector of the town in 1824. It is today the entertainment focal point with its boat rides, pony rides and other activities.

For those looking for more adventure than sitting by the lake side, just 10 km away from the main town is the Dodda Betta or Big Mountain,the highest peak of the Nilgiri ranges. It provides glimpse of the unmatched vistas of the nilgiri at a strategic point that joins the eastern and western ghats of India.

Ooty also has some natural wonders of the man-made kind. One of them being the botanical garden, a well laid out exhibition of myriad plants and flowers. The main attraction here is a fossilised tree trunk that is supposed to be 20 million years old. If you are visiting in winter, the rose garden too is something of an experience with scent of multicoloured roses wafting in the air and a spectrum of 1000 and more varieties of the world’s favourite flower in display in all of 10 acres of land.

Seen at the Botanical Garden, Courtesy Swami Stream via cc/Flickr

At other times of the year though, it is not roses but the aroma of tea that may automatically lead you to one of the tea estates spread across the town. Like true connoisseurs of this aromatic beverage you can participate in the ceremony of tea-tasting or you can simply opt to hop in a little patch under the pine trees and pose for a photograph to show off in the urban world probably with a cuppa.

The shops around the town sell the priciest of Nilgiri tea and also aromatic oils, spices and essences. There are also numerous hand made chocolate flavours to pick from as soveiniers or simple treats to enjoy on your way back.

Tea, trees and visual treats, that’s Ooty for you – the queen of hill stations.

New Delhi, the national capital of India, is a city that is centuries old and yet can astonish you with the modern luxuries and conveniences it has to offer. It is a city that has buried in its many folds, legends, parables and architectural splendour of different dynasties who have at some point of time lived and enriched the place with their cultural heritage. It is also a city that lives as much in the present as it does in the past. While some parts of the city might tell you a story of the 12th century some are as contemporary and modern as any other 21^st century town.

 It is a city that you can see in parts and come back with totally different experiences in each. In fact, from a traveller’s point of view the immense contrast between the old and the new facet of Delhi is surprising and both well worth exploring.

Here are some places worth a visit in Delhi which truthfully are just a fistful of gems in a vast treasure trove,

Red Fort. Courtesy wseltzer via cc/Flickr

1. Red Fort – This imperial citadel gets its name from the red sandstone battlement surrounding it and is in many ways the symbol of India’s nationhood. Build by the Mughal emperors who were one of the strongest dynasties to rule much of India for many years, the Fort was the first place where the Indian national flag was hoisted when India gained independence in 1947. It might be a good idea to watch the sound and light show held inside the premises every evening to get a glimpse of the bygone era.
2. Jama Masjid – It is a marvellous treasure of the old city. The grand mosque, the largest in India, three imposing black and white marble domes and twin minarets framing its central arch. A climb to the top of the southern tower will reward you with stunning view of the rooftops of old Delhi.
3. Qutub Minar – This five storeyed victory tower is the tallest minaret in the world. Believed to be started by Qutubuddin Aibak, the tower was completed by Iltumish to announce the advent of the Muslim sultans in 1206. The entire minaret site has many other fascinating monuments true to the Tughluq architectural style.
   

   Lotus Temple. Courtesy Vandelizer via cc/Flickr

4. Lotus Temple – The Bahai house of worship is more of a modern creation popularly known as the lotus temple because of its arresting shape of unfurling petals of a lotus. It is an apt representation of Bahai faith that views all humanity as one single race. Keeping with the philosophy, people of all faith are invited to meditate and pray in the peaceful temple auditorium.
5. India Gate – It is a massive red sandstone arch which was built to commemorate the British and Indian soldiers who died in world war I. With time it has become a representation of all martyrs who died defending the nation and an eternal flame burns here in the memory of the soldiers who died in India-Pakistan war of 1971. The gate marks the eastern end of Rajpath, used for parades and banked with ornamental fountains, canals and gardens on either side.
6. Janpath – The main shopping centres of the city are in and around the area of janpath and Connaught place. Here state emporiums and cottage industries provide textile, jewellery and souvenirs at fixed prices. But roam the streets of janpath and you can find many a treasured treat tucked in the small shops selling handicrafts from India and Tibet. Bargaining is key to get some good buys.
7. Lodhi Gardens –A favourite haunt for joggers, yoga gurus, political bigwigs and picnicking families, this picturesque garden is the green lung of Delhi. The lawns and flowerbeds are laid around the imposing 15 century tomb of the Sayyid and Lodi dynasties and quiet a serene getaway from the bustling city.
   

   Humayun's Tomb. courtesy chopr via cc/Flickr

8. Humayun’s Tomb – The tomb of the second Mughal emperor Humayun is the inspiration behind the incomparable Taj Mahal. Because of this important significance it is interesting to see this site and observe the similar dome structure, fine trellis work and the tomb chamber made of marble.
9. Jantar Mantar – Sawai jai Singh the king of Jaipur was a keen astronomer and he built this observatory in 1724 to calculate planetary positions and alignments accurately. What makes the place stunning is the precision with which at that age and time these  mud instruments were built. UNESCO has recently added the Jantar Mantar at Jaipur into its list of world heritage sites and if not Jaipur, you can definitely see it at Delhi.
10. National Museum – Five millennia of Indian history can be explored at the national museum. It has a collection of nearly 200,000 Indian art and also a collection of Indus valley relics and treasures from the silk route of central Asia.

It is said Delhi is the city of people with large hearts, a connotation derived from its name pronounced as ‘dilli’ in Hindi language ‘dil’ meaning heart. In this city you might meet your share of people who would follow you like a shadow coaxing you to try their taxi services, food joint or even tail you to every place you visit as self proclaimed guides. But you might also find few of those citizens who smile whatever be the circumstances, who give without questioning and who make you feel right at home in a foreign land. It is then that you would have truly seen the city of Delhi and will fondly remember it as ‘dilli’ – rightly, the city of people with large hearts.

An image of India for many, conjures up images of ascetics in bare minimum with locks of hair towering above their head like a coiled serpent and a trident or a metal casket in their hands. Needless to say, such saints are in plenty in this birthplace of Hindu religion and though the India showcased to the world today is vary of this image, it is still an undeniable and ingrained part of this country, just as much as the smart professionals who are revolutionising the IT sector of the world with their proven genius.

While modern India is self confident and optimistic and every inch the replica of any other western country, the mammoth cultural heritage of a thousand years or more, cannot be forgotten either. Look a little beyond the showy malls or past the concrete expressways and you can still witness the India of the nineteenth, eighteenth or seventeenth century co-existing with the modern globe.

Some cities are especially a rewarding experience for those in search of the India of fables and fakirs and one such destination is Haridwar. Known as ‘The Gateway to the Gods’ this city has remained for the past thousands of years the focal point of devout Hindus who want to exit the vicious circle of life and death to attain nirvana. And that all important status has been given to Haridwar by its glorious past and the holy river Ganga.

Courtesy mckaysavage via cc/Flickr

Haridwar is the first city where River Ganga enters the plains. Leaving her carefree playfulness behind, Ganga descends from mountains and through valleys to transform into the feisty incarnation of power and composure. She is the secret gateway to heaven, the holy excelsior on Earth that can erase the sins of a thousand births in one drop and take your soul straight to heaven. For Hindus, there is no greater desire than to be soaked in the mystical power of Ganga and it is for this reason that many spend a lifetime wishing to come once to Haridwar and wash away their sins on the banks of the holy river.

Legend says that Haridwar is one of the 4 places in India where a drop of immortality nectar (amrit) fell from the skies when it was retrieved by the churning of the oceans by Gods and demons. That raised the status of Haridwar to a pious strata from where it has never descended. Rather every 12 years the status is all the more glorified when almost 15 million people participate in the Kumbh Mela drowning their sorrows and sins in the biggest communal bath ever witnessed in the world.

Haridwar is also one of the most ancient cities of the world. Archaeological discoveries have shown rare artefacts between 1200 B.C. and 1700 B.C.buried in the depth of this sacred land. It finds its mention in ancient scriptures as Gangadwar, Kapila, and Mayapuri. Indeed from the time when Lord Budhha traversed these paths to the Britishers who came to colonise India, the city has witnessed the rise and fall of many emporers and empires.

Courtesy gbSk via cc/Flickr

Har-ki-Pauri – The main ghat on the river Ganga where devotees gather to bathe and pray. Evening time is especially a treat with floapting lamps covering the entire area with an ethereal glow.

Maya devi Temple – Temple in honor of the presiding Godess of Haridwar after whom it is also known as Maypuri.

Mansa Devi Temple – Atop a hill that can be reached by a cable car. The view from here is breathtaking.

Gurukul Kangri University – A centre of vedic knowledge where teaching by gurus is in traditional oral style.

Riverside bazaars – Mostly selling items related to their religious significance and thronging with small eateries.

For travellers coming from beyond the shores of India, Haridwar is a place to decipher Hinduism. To watch closely how confessions are made not to a priest, but immersed in the vastness of a sacred river that ironically is becoming blacker by the day carrying the burden of so many sins.

Courtesy NID chick via cc/Flickr

The priests chanting hymns, little urchins pulling your shirt to buy a rupees worth flower basket or the brass pitchers filled with the sacred water, the mystical hermits who can tell all about your past births and present gastrointestinal problems in one breath, the thousand and one burning incense sticks camouflaging the smells of wilting flowers, burning pyres and waste, and the flood of human mass all converging to the ghats to find their passageway to salvation, in all these cacophany of sounds,you might just find the answers.The ravaging waters of the cold, torrential Ganga might just be able to dissolve your idea of what it is to be a human being. The cleansing of the body and the soul among a strange gathering might just help you look at life from an Indian’s point of view.

As described Sri Aurbindo once, “This physical world which for us is so real and absolute and unique, seems to them (Indians) but one way of living among many others, In short, a small, chaotic, agitated and rather painful frontier on the margin of immense continents which lie behind the unexplored. “

The Haridwar experience might just help you understand yourself a little better.

Travellers always have this fascination of  taking back a memorabilia from the city they are visiting as a glorious testimony of the journey to an unknown land. While each city has its array of emporiums and curio shops addressing this very need of travellers, it is another matter and an adventure in itself to skew through the unfamiliar surroundings, bargain with the locals and finally take home a souvenir that has somehow more value attached to it because of the preceding hunt.

In Ahmedabad, the vibrant city of Gujarat, India, this discovery may happen in a street market at Law Garden. While pockets become lighter and bags in the hands grow heavier, the eyes continue to be dazzled by the great traditional shopping fiesta offered from one corner of this busy street to the other.

Law garden is called so because of the Law College in the vicinity and it is indeed a peaceful garden in the heart of the city with plenty of play area, lush green lawns, and shaded green avenues for families to spend some relaxing moments all around. But what many come here for is not the peace and tranquillity offered inside the garden gates but the hullabaloo of activities present around it.

Shopper's Paradise. Courtesy Sudhamshu via cc/Flickr

The entire boundary wall of the garden has been utilised by enterprising gujaratis to open up their tea stalls, snack shacks, gaming shops, children rides, soda shops and to the uttermost delight of many traditional apparel hunters, hundreds of shop selling authentic Gujarati costumes and jewellery.  

It seems it is festival time 365 days a year on this side of the garden that plays host to these shops. The shimmering dresses and the glittering jewellery displayed temptingly all across the street coax every passerby to give a second glance and even stop for some impulse buy.

What you can find here

  Those who have visited the states of Gujarat or Rajasthan in India may have been greeted quite often with the sight of local women wearing a voluminous long skirt called the ghagra or the lehenga with a matching top and an unstitched cloth called odni or duppatta covering their head. It is the traditional wear of this part of India made hugely popular by bollywood movies and the great Indian weddings. What you can find in the law garden street shops is exactly the same apparels and ornaments coming straight from the creators of these items. Choices are plenty and before you splurge on the first design that you find, it is wise to traverse the length of the road and shortlist the best of the best.

The Vibrant Ghagra-Choli, Courtesy sudhamshu via cc/Flickr

Here is a list of the things you can get here,

Chaniya choli or ghagra choli – The Indian version of the skirt and top these are the most common of the items in display at every shop and interestingly with the most varied designs. Owing to the creative abilities of the creator each pair of ghagra and choli is a customised work of art. Although certain design elements prevail like the use of flower motifs, mirror work, stars and colored glasses, the ultimate costume is unique in its own respect and it is hard to find two pairs the exact replica of each other. If one notices there are regional difference too in the design patterns. While the more intricate thread work is visible in the Kutchi patterns, the other gujarati designs are adorned more with mirror and glass work. But regardless of their birth place, all are hand stitched and exquisite.

Kurta Tops – Ahmedabad is known to be a very fashion conscious city and there are many who have blended western influences with ethnic Indian wear giving rise to a new breed of garments called the kurta tops that can be worn with an Indian salwar or the ubiquitous blue jeans. The amazing design choices for this particular kind of tops is endless in the law garden shops and with the price range, any sane shopper may wish to take everything home!

Angarakha/Kurta Dhoti – Men may not feel left out after all, because there are plenty of shops selling traditional Gujarati wear for men too. The typical angarakha a frock style loose kurta for men is hugely popular garment choice during the festival season from September to November when the entire country celebrates Navaratri and Diwali. It is especially worn by men performing garba dance. There are special vivid colored, small sized costumes for kids too that can make your little boy the centre of attention of any party.

Silver Jewellery – As you keep buying your dresses it is easy to accessorize them then and there with some shops selling exclusively easy- to- wear silver jewellery. Most of course are not made of the precious metal and thus priced exceedingly low. From small studs, to drop earrings to complete set of a neck piece, matching earrings and bangles you can find almost any design complimenting your buy. The best part is, the shop owners are the creators themselves and if you ask for it, you can get a particular design of your choice with matching coloured stones, made to order in minutes!

Jewels galore , courtesy mckaysavage via cc/Flickr (This particular photo is of a shop in Rishikesh but the merchandise and display is very similar to the ornament shops in Law Garden, Ahmedabad)

Bed sheets/Cushion & Bolster covers – There is no easier way to make India come alive in your home than with these amazingly beautiful hand stitched bed sheets and bed covers. The colours are as dynamic as the country itself and patterns showcase the traditional Indian love for elements of nature and wildlife. There are again plenty of designs, shapes and sizes to choose from. For those who want a special something to adorn there walls there are also many wall hangings that you can get here. Peacocks, lotuses, creepers and the lovable Indian God Ganesha, the artisans have much in store for the connoisseurs of wall art. 

Stationary – Folders, visiting card holders and pen stands get a visibly new meaning around these street shops. The designs are simple and more essentially hundred percent eco-friendly made of cloth and hardboard. They not only make good souvenirs to gift friends back home, but also can be great to portray your love for the eco-friendly goods the chic way.

Hand bags – Cloth hand bags never cease to go out of fashion and that is why here too you can see unlimited shapes and sizes of bags that can be used anywhere, from carrying college notebooks to loose change or to just ethnically accessorise a party dress.

Handy tips

• Bargain, bargain and bargain. The rule of thumb at these street shops is to give less than half of what is asked for. Do stick to your price once you have quoted it and you would surely reap the rewards of buying much more than you expected at the same price.
• Take a local with you. It is best to have a local as an aid if you are here for the first time as the shop owners are quick to recognise an outsiders especially if you come from another country. Apart from the ease in conversation, the local friend may also save you from the job of bargaining.
• When buying any apparel, whether a chaniya choli or a top, make sure that the shop owner unpacks and shows the complete set to you. There are sometimes stitching errors that go unnoticed if you do not check before you buy.
• Always dryclean the first wash as the colors run and may spoil the entire dress if not washed carefully.

To know more about Ahmedabad, visit Gujarat Tourism

For people living in coastal towns, the sea I believe becomes such an indispensable part of their lives that they can sleep without even thinking about it, trusting that it is and will always remain where they last saw them. But for us, the not so blessed travellers from the plains, who can only see the sun, sand and surf on occasional visits to such coastal towns, the visit to the sea is a dream we sleep with and the final rendezvous is like a revelation, a meeting with a gigantic, fascinating creature that makes you realise its enormity and your miniscule stature, and yet dances around your feet like someone friendly and eager to get acquainted.

For me, in spite of having visited many coasts and having seen the sea in its various moods, the excitement of watching the waves touch my feet does not cease to end and it was no different when we visited Elliot’s beach in Chennai, the capital of Tamil Nadu in Southern India.

Courtesy dwimalu via cc/Flickr

Elliot’s is one of the many beaches of Chennai that also boast of one of the longest beaches in the world-the Marina Beach. Elliot’s is in fact the southern tip of this Marina beach but calmer and more serene. Walking from a residential part of the town called Besant Nagar; it is fairly simple to reach the sea just y taking any road going towards the coast. It is although a different matter to navigate all the way to the shore with a labyrinth of sellers, selling everything from snacks, toys, shoes, ice creams to even telling your fortune with the aid of a parrot or a hamster. It may seem a nuisance sometimes when all you want is to be at peace with the deep but for many the attraction of a spicy peanut snack or a quick reading of the palm is hard to resist.

Elliot’s beach which is also known as ‘Bessei’ among the locals was discovered by the colonials who made it something of a private beach for themselves. But gradually the popularity of the beach began to grow among the natives too and soon; the beach became a frequent haunt of those who wished to avoid the crowd of Marina beach.

Courtesy Sudhamshu via cc/Flickr

Although today Elliot’s beach is as crowded as any other sea shore in Chennai, it is still a nice place to unwind with your family and kids. There are plenty of clean places to sit back and relax while the kids are busy building sand castles. The water is quite calm and cool for a refreshing dip. You can also walk along the shores, take a rented horse ride and if it feels like, visit the relatively new Goddess Lakshmi temple in the vicinity called Ashtalakshmi Kovil. There is also a church called Velanganni church frequented as a pilgrimage by many Christians.

Another noted landmark on the Elliot’s beach is Shmidt memorial, a structure in neglected condition presently but built once in the memory of a Dutch sailor who lost his life while saving a drowning man.  

The street near the beach has a good number of decent eateries that serve meals and snacks at a very affordable price.  

Elliot’s beach is for those who are happy just looking at the waves. There are no adventurous water sport activities you can participate in here but plenty of shore space to just relax and let the sea do the talking.

Courtesy VinothChander via cc/Flickr

As children, my brother and I always looked forward to our summer holidays when we would be visiting some unknown part of India with our parents and spent glorious days frolicking and exploring a place. The memories of these visits today come in flashes and almost always revolve around particular incidents rather than the whole trip and the sightseeing. Like what I remember of Mussoorie, one of the most popular hill stations of India is not the hills or picturesque locations, but a toothbrush (a childhood treasure) bought from the town Mall that could be detached, kept in a box and joined together again to be used for brushing. I also faintly remember looking from a roadside telescope towards the peak of a hill that on keen observation looked just like a seated camel. It is only now that I know that the rock is still there and indeed known as camel rock, one of the hotspots of Mussoorie.

Courtesy crowGraphy via Flickr

Mussoorie was discovered like many other hill stations of India, by British Army personnel named Captain Young in 1820. With the hues of blue and white decking the entire region, clouds, trees, mountains and waterfalls etched like a perfectly painted picture, the small hill town was fondly known to be called as the Queen of the hills and soon became a much sorted summer destination for British officials and later also for Indians. The town was home to Sir George Everest too, the first surveyor general of India and the man who gave his name to Mount Everest. His home, Everest House is still here and can be visited.

Mussoorie lies 35 Km north of Dehradun, the provisional capital of Uttaranchal and a gateway to the Garhwal Hills. Perched on a horse-shoe shaped ridge above the Doon valley, the life in this small town centres around the Mall, the main street decked with eating joints, shops, and interesting buildings, some of the Raj era. Many fascinating items are up for grabs in the array of small shops in the Mall but what is a real bargain here, is the varied range of woollens made by the Tibetan community living in the region and working wonders on yarns for centuries.

While street shopping has its charm, the real glory of Mussoorie can be felt when you take time to wander off towards the hills. There is a ropeway from the Mall to Gun Hill, a hill called so because of the gun that was perched on the peak and fired blank exactly at mid-day to help people adjust their watches. This pre-Independence practice has now ceased however the hill still succeeds to fire-up exhilarating emotions when on a clear day it blesses mankind with heavenly view of the greater Himalayan peaks of Nandadevi, Kedarnath and Badrinath.

Kempty falls, Courtesy bijoy mohan via Flickr

Where there are the hills, there are also the waterfalls, and true enough Mussoorie has its share of gurgling water cascading down the twists and turns of the mountain paths and creating magical rhapsodies on the way. The refreshingly cold water of most of this falls, like the Kempty falls lying 12 km northwest of town, the Jharipani falls or the Bhatta falls on the Mussoorie-Deradun road, gives every visitor a chance to feel the magic of the mountains, soothing the body, mind and soul.

Mussoorie is best visited in summer months from April to June, but September till November is also a good time when the view of the Himalayan ranges is particularly awe-inspiring. Uttaranchal as a state is known to be blessed with natural beauty all around. For hikers, lovers of adventure sports, trekkers, and nature-lovers, the whole area is like a treasure trove waiting to be explored. Budget travellers and those who can travel the world with a rucksack are particularly in for a delight with the warm smiles and cool breezes giving you company all the way. Just keep your camera handy and breath-in every fraction of this picture perfect setting.

At the start of the sixteenth century, India was invaded by a man named Babur who overthrew the Sultan of the day and proclaimed himself to be the ‘Emperor of India’. He eventually did manage to invade and bring a vast territory of India under his rule and thus began the great tryst of Mughals with India.

But even among the Mughals there was one emperor whose approach to governance, broad mindedness, acceptance of different religions and his intelligence not just made him a beloved king among his people but a visionary who is still respected for his great forsights. He was Mughal Emperor Mohd. Jalaluddin Akbar.

Akbar brought many changes in his lifetime, like strengthening Hindu and Muslim ties, introducing a modern system of an army owing allegiance to the state, creating a new religion that was an amalgamation of many, and also creating the first planned city of the Mughals known as Fatehpur Sikri, now also a World Heritage Site.

Sikri by Jorge Bassy- 2KPhoto.com via Flickr

Sikri

It is said that there was a Sufi saint named Salim Chisti who lived at a place called Sikri in the Vindhya mountain ranges about 26 miles from Agra. Akbar made a pilgrimage to this saint and was blessed with a son Salim (later Emperor Jahangir) and so as a token of his reverence to the saint he dreamt of building a city at Sikri that he named Fatehabad.

The new capital thus began taking shape with a unique blend of Hindu and Muslim architecture. In 1585 the construction was complete giving shape to an Emperor’s dream and one of the most enchanting works of architecture done in India.

What to see

For those visiting Agra to have a look at another Mughal masterpiece the Taj Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri will be a sharp contrast to the white marble monument as the later is predominantly made of red sand stone. Although time and weather have had there chance to ruin the splendor of the place, what remains is still remarkable and that is sensed even as you just see a glimpse of the city from a distance.

With plenty of time, a local guide and a thirst to relive the golden days of Indian history, tread on to witness one outstanding monument after another some of which are as follows,

Buland Darwaza

 Literally translated as the Mighty Door, this gate erected in 1602 AD to commemorate Akbar’s victory over Deccan is regarded as one of the biggest and grandest gateways of the world. The 13 meter flights of steps to the gate only add to its grandeur.

Jami Masjid

One of the largest mosque in India, it has a central courtyard, a hall and also tomb of royal ladies.

jami masjid by amanderson2 via Flickr

Dargah of Sheikh Salim Chisti

It is the place of worship where the emperor himself went in need of a son. Saint Salim Chisti’s dargah is still frequented by many looking for a blessing or answers to their problems. The beautiful lattice work done on the dargah is eye-catching.

Dargah by paul-simpson.org via Flickr

Anup Talao

A square water body that has pathways leading to the central platform. It is believed to be used for artistic performances as well as casual game or chat session for the Emperors and his Queens.

Turkish Sultana’s house

At the corner of the pool is this pavilion with beautiful carving adorning the ceiling.

Daulat Khan-i-Khas

It is the private chambers of the emperor himself. The structure is two storied with library and common room in the ground floor and royal bed chamber in the upper floor. This chamber has been connected well with all the queens’ chambers through corridors.

Palace of Jodha Bai

Known to be Akbar’s favorite queen, the palace of Queen Jodha Bai is the largest monument as well as the most lavish.  It has a 9 meter guarded gate to the east and also secure high walls.

Sunehra Makan

The golden house as it is called was palace of Queen Mariam-Uz-Zamani. The palace I called so because of the heavily ordained golden murals all across the palace. It also has inscription of verses written by Akbar’s brother Faizi.

Panch Mahal

It is one of the most beautifully crafted monument of Fatehpur Sikri. A five storied structure with each upper floor smaller than the one below giving a tower like appearance. The single dome kiosk at the top gives a magnificent view of the city.

Panch Mahal by paul-simpson.org via Flickr

When in Agra it is a must to reserve half a day visiting this intelligently planned city of an emperor. It was only for 13 years that the royalties lived in this city, before moving back to Agra because of water scarcity. But what remains here to this day is helping breathe life into past people and history even today.