As the world welcomes the Chinese year of the Tiger, it is certainly not welcome news to know that only about 3500 tigers survive in the world right now. This regal animal, which is the national animal of India, is facing immense danger from human population, industrialization and natural erosion of habitat, not to forget poaching to acquire the highly mystical medicinally useful tiger parts.

Royal Bengal Tiger. Courtesy Siddy Lam via Flickr

While efforts pour in from all directions to help preserve these shy yet majestic creatures, what a traveler can do best, is to go see the tiger. See where it loves to tread, the animals it loves to hunt and how the young ones learn the fine art of hunting and survival. Go see the dense dark forests, and the thick grasslands that provide perfect ambush to the striped carnivore. Get the whole family together for a vacation, sitting in a jeep and waiting in anticipation to catch a glimpse of a crouching tiger.

What this travelling can do most is spread awareness about the tiger and its needs. It can help make better amenities and improve protection efforts, so that more and more can travel from far and wide to see the animal. It can help pour in the always useful funds for conservation efforts. And it can surely help instill an appreciation for nature into young minds.

If you are really looking forward to a trip into the tiger’s den, here are some of the best places in India for a rendezvous with this critically endangered species.

Jim Corbett National Park – Named after the hunter turned conservationist Jim Corbett, this park is in the state of Uttaranchal and one of the oldest national parks of the country.

The park boasts of 488 different species of plants and equally diverse varieties of animals. It is also a fine place to try adventure sports as the area is blessed with hills, mountains, rivers, marshes, grasslands and lakes.

This park was the first to come under the banner of the Project Tiger initiative in India.

Best time to visit – September to June

Bandhavgadh National Park – Located in the state of Madhya Pradesh, the area of the park is about 437 sq. km. About half the park is covered with fine trees of Sal and stretches of bamboo and grasslands extend to the north. The main wildlife viewing is still done in the core of the park with its 32 picturesque, wooded hills.

This area was once the hunting reserve of the royal family of Rewa but in 1968 was declared as a protected area and since then has been a tiger reserve.

The best season to visit is from November to June. Elephant and jeep safaris are available.

Ranthambore National Park – While on a trip to royal Rajasthan, it seems easy enough to slip a day or two in your shedule  for this national park in Rajasthan bound by the river Chambal and Banas.

The landscape is dotted with ancient Banyan Trees, Dhok & Pipal trees, clusters of mango trees and crisscrossed with evergreen belts.

Sighted in Ranthambore. Courtesy Koshyk via Flickr

It is also a favorite haunt of wildlife photographers, always eager to capture classic shots of the easily sighted tiger. For a relatively small area, the park has a rich diversity of fauna and flora – including 300 tree species, 50 aquatic plants, 272 birds, 12 reptiles including the Marsh Crocodile & amphibians and 30 species of mammals.

The best time to visit this park is from October to March and April to June.

Kanha National Park – This horse-shoes shaped area nestled in the state of Madhya Pradesh has long been known as the tiger country. It is a vast area that is protected – almost 1940 sq. km. and therefore apart from the tigers; other wild animals too are easy to sight like the Porcupine, Gray Langurs, Mongoose, Hyena, Jungle Cat, Leopard, varieties of Deer, as well as the majestic Gaur or Indian Bison.

 Best time to visit in from April to June or November to January. This is also a good place to observe tribal cultures of the area.

Sundarbans National Park – If it is the Royal Bengal Tiger, you wish to feast the eyes on; the place to find them is here.

The vast swampy delta of the two great Indian rivers, Brhamaputra and the Ganges extends over areas comprising of mangrove forests, swamps and archipelago of 54 forest islands all interwoven in a network. The park area of approximately 1330.10-sq-kms is the largest mangrove forest in the world, forming the core of this area. The Sundarban region has got its name from Sundari trees, once found in abundance here.

Pair of White Tiger Cubs. Courtesy Koshyk via Flickr

It is said that this area is home to almost 400 tigers but the animals are shy and the camouflage is excellent, so patience is of greatest virtue if you wish to meet the tiger here.

Sundarbans is also noted for its conservation of the Ridley Sea Turtle and incredible variety of reptiles like King Cobra, Rock Python and Water Monitor.

Best time to visit is September to May.

Bandipur National Park – If you are in the southern parts of India, enticed by the fine temple architecture, what can add a dramatic wild element to the tour is visiting this park hidden in the wrinkled folds of the Western Ghats of Karnataka.

In 1973, Bandipur became one of the first of India’s Tiger Reserves and the southernmost of the nine reserves specially established under Project Tiger. It is after the monsoon showers that the glory of this park unfolds and wild animals can be seen easily roaming around.  

Best time to visit is from October to April.

So it seems wherever in India you are, you are never really far from a spectacle of wild chases, telltale paw marks and the elusive royal Tiger.

Laura’s recent post on the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center reminded me of a festival held in the National capital New Delhi, India that for decades has become a part of the city’s culture and lets the whole community bond over flowers. So here is more about Phoolwalon ki Sair.

It is that time of the year when the dust has settled down on the streets after recent showers and refreshing greenery covers all land and cityscapes. The mood in capital city of India, New Delhi is boisterous as usual with an added jest and gaiety. It is time for the annual three day celebrations of a festival that is neither Hindu nor Muslim and yet makes masses go to a part of the old city called Mehrauli where a Sufi saint and a Hindu Goddess are bedecked with flower canopies and fans.

Welcome!

It is called the festival of ‘phoolwalon ki sair’ literally meaning ‘procession of the flower sellers’ but in reality encompassing the composite culture of the national capital and the nation.

 When did it Begin

It is said, during the reign of the Mughal Empire in India, and at a time when the empire was already loosing its sheen, there was a Sultan Akbar Shah II in the year 1812. He had two sons, who were more interested in merrymaking than learning the tactics of ruling a nation. However, of the two the Sultan was more interested in making the younger Mirza Jahangir as the heir Apparent denouncing the natural right of the elder son Sirajuddin Zafar.

This was not what the Britishers wanted (India was a under British rule for more than 300 years) who knew Jahangir as a reckless youth. Once when this young prince shot a fire at a british officer, the governemnt found a good oppurtunity to capture and arrest him.

The move saddened the Queen immensely and she prayed to the lords for her son’s homecoming. She promised a chadar (canopy) of flowers to be offered to the pious Dargah of Khwaja Bakhtiar Kaki of Mehrauli. When the British government finally relented and released the prince, the Queen in all her royal opulance, and with a huge troop of royalties went to the dargah to fulfill her promise.

flower fan by vvchar via wikimedia commons

The fanfare continued for several days with people from all parts of the country joining in to offer their flower canopies and flower sellers even created a pankha (fan) made out of flowers and palm leaves to be given as offering at the nearby jogimaya temple.

Thus the foundation was laid for an annual tradition that brought the whole city to the doors of two reverred holy destinations to offer their fragrant offerings.

The Revival

After 1942 Quit India movement in the country, the British government had suspended the festival for security reasons. In 1962, it was the first Prime Minister of India, Jawahar Lal Nehru who realised the deeper purpose of this festival and reinstated it with much fanfare. Since then, the three days of celebration hace always enjoyed the patronage of the ruling government and the Prime Minister makes it a point to visit atleast once and offer his prayers at the holy grounds.

Festival Today

Kathak Dancers and Quawwali singers, acrobats and fencing experts, soldiers and craftsmen, all are ready to woo the audience with their inherent talents on this occasion.  The procession, led by shehnai players and dancers, and bearing large floral fans, first visits the JogiMaya Temple to offer the floral fans and then winds through Mehrauli bazar, to reach the dargah of 13th century Sufi saint, Khwaja Bakhtiyar Kaki to offer the huge and delicate chadar to the saint.

Rose petal shower by ramesh_lalwani via Flickr

Also known as Sair-e-Gul Faroshan the procession of flower-sellers is especially important to the florists who pray for a better flower season in the coming year by offering big fans, embroidered with flowers to both shrines.

What makes this part of a town a must visit during these three days is the recent addition of cultural troupes from various states of India performing at  ‘Jahaz Mahal’ also in Mehrauli, which is believed to be built in the Lodhi dynasty era.

The total distance of this procession is about 30 Km and for a traveller can very well be compared to a heritage walk down the red-bricked, chaotic, bustling lanes of Old Delhi.

Amidst the fragrance of innumerable flowers, the aroma of fried Indian snacks, the rythms of divine music and the tinkering of dancers’ bells, the festival of Phoolwalon ki Sair, becomes a representation of mini-India. A memory you can easily take away of this vibrant land.

Performance at Jahaz Mahal by ramesh_lalwani via Flickr

To know more about the festival, see Phoolwaalon ki Sair

The name Goa in India instantly conjures images of sun kissed beaches and an eternal land of good times. But what this Old Portuguese settlement also offers is some historic structures that give the state its true Goan character.

One of these structures is the most ornate church of Old Goa, also a World Heritage Site called the Basilica de Bon Jesu (Infant Jesus) which houses the sacred relics of Saint Francis Xavier.

Basilica de Bon Jesu. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

The Story of the Saint

It is said that the catholic saint popularly known as Sam Francesco or Goencho Sahib visited Goa on his way to Malacca in the 16th century. Serving at the Holy Spirit Hospital in Goa for six months, he would go through the streets ringing a little bell and inviting the children to hear the word of God. When he had gathered a considerable number, he would take them to a church to explain Catechism to them.

From here he traveled to China, but died in the desert island of Sancian on December 1552. His body was daubed in quicklime and buried in the sea. When it was exhumed after three months, people were stunned to find no signs of decomposition. The body was then taken to Malacca and reburied. Here again when his body was exhumed after five months, it was found to be in perfect condition.

The casket of St. Francis Xavier. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

Interpreting it as a divine signal, the saint was brought to Goa almost 150 years after his death as a gift from Medici, Cosimo III, the Grand Duke of Tuscany. It now lies in an airtight glass coffin, placed inside a silver casket fashioned by a 17th century Florentine jeweler.

Over the years, the body has been shriveling bit by bit and if you see it today, it might be difficult to recognize it as a human figure. But the miraculous relic, does add to the attraction of the beautiful Catholic Church.

Relics of the Saint. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

The Basilica

This is India’s first minor basilica that is known for its beautifully gilded alters and frescos. It is one of the richest churches in Goa and the finest example of baroque architecture in India.

A World Heritage Site. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

With marble flooring, inlaid precious stones and paintings depicting the life of St. Francis Xavier covering the walls of the church, it is as much an attraction for non-Christians as it is for Christians in India.

Inside the Basilica. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

The Festival

The Feast of St. Francis Xavier is held on the 3rd of December at Velha in Old Goa, which witnesses thousands of pilgrims and a special mass held here. The embalmed body of the saint is also exposed to public every 10 years when pilgrims come all over the world pay their tributes to the departed saint.

Best time to visit

Christmas break is definitely a good time to visit Goa especially if you are visiting to see the churches. Some people believe, Goa looks heavenly even when it is flooded with non stop rains from end of May to July and indeed, you do not need to check the time of the year to visit this spectacular destination.

Be sure to read more on the fun and frolics of Goa in my future posts.

“Row, row, row your boat, gently down the stream..” as you sit beside the lake in Allupuzzha in Kerala, India, this popular rhyme, inadvertently comes back to your mind. But even as you reminiscence the toddler years, the last thing in the oar bearers’ mind is to be gentle!

The snake boat race of Kerala can easily be called as one of the 1000 spectacles to see before you die. It is so vibrant, so energetic, so spirited that even a spectator can feel the rhythm as you chant the mantras of winning and shout in top of your voice to hope that your favorite boat wins the race.

When

Kerala, the coastal state of India, quoted as God’s own country charms everyone with its replesendent beauty all the year round. But if you are visiting this heaven in the months of August-September, you can also witness a festival celebration that marks harvest time and also the homecoming of beloved King Mahabali. It is during this celebration of the festival of Onam that snake boat races are held in all the major cities like Alapuzzha, Kumarkom, Kottayam, Munnar, Pallana etc.

With the boat races gaining so much popularity and fan-following, events like the Cochin carnival in the last week of December also organize the competition.

Where

With the whole state engulfed in celebrations, there are quite a few places where the calm back waters of Kerala metamorphosis to the competition grounds for boat races. Some of the popular haunts are,

Champakulam Moolam Boat Race held on the Champakulam Lake this race is said to be the oldest of all and is closely connected to the Sri Krishna Temple at Ambalappuzha.

An exotic procession of water floats, boats decorated with colorful parasols and performing arts greets the spectator before the race.

Aranmula Boat race, which is said to be more of a water fiesta than a boat race. This two day celebration has children dressed as angels and nymphs, taking part in a procession where a huge effigy of Lord Krishna is taken out. It is on the second day when the snake boats decorated with silken parasols, carrying helmsmen, oarsmen and singers assemble near the temple early in the morning and then move away in pairs, creating a magnificent pageant. The boat race is held in the afternoon.

Payippad Jalotsavam Held on the Payippad Lake near Alapuzzha, it commemorates the installation of the deity at the Subramanian Swami temple at Haripad. This celebration is for three days.

Nehru Trophy Boat Race, one of the biggest events of the year, this race takes place on the Punnamada Lake near Alapuzzha. It is here that visitors from near and far throng the banks of the lake, to witness the athletic men beat each other in the skilled art of rowing.

Over 16 snake boats or chundan vallams participate in the race along with scores of smaller crafts like the churulan, veppu, odi etc., with a prize for each category. There are separate races for women too. The race begins with a colorful pageant of floats, performing arts and decorated boats and enthralls the spectators till late in the evening.

The spectacle

Usually, a snake boat is manned by four helmsmen, 25 singers and 100-125 oarsmen, who row in unison to the fast rhythm of vanchipattu, song of the boatman. These black crafts float low in water and have a long curving stern. The prow is pointed in shape or may have a decorative knob at the end. The prow rides low in the water with the length of the Snake Boat extending behind it.

What is of utmost importance here is the rhythmic motion of the oar bearers who sit two in row along the length of the boat. In perfect harmony they row as the songs and chants begin. Like men in a trance they keep moving and swaying their body and gaining momentum as the boat cruises through the water. With speed comes also the added labor to keep rowing and it is then that the cheer of the overzealous crowd adds to the stimuli of the persevering men.

Ultimately the team work pays off as the spectators witness some nail biting finishes. Here triumph is for everyone, with one of the boats winning the race while all winning admiration of fans the world over.

The spectacular snake boat race of Kerala is one practical lesson on the power of precision, unison, hard work and teamwork.

When you are in a country, that changes its ambience and culture every step of the way, it really becomes difficult to choose the one thing that you can take back home as a distinct memory of that place. The problem becomes more acute when you are in India where each state, even each city has a wide, dizzying array of handicraft, handloom, and other artistry to choose from.

Therefore, to make your job of souvenir hunting a little less complicated, here are a few things, that you can take home and that can remind you of this beautiful country even as the travel memories fade.

Carpets 

Kashmir is indubitably the carpet capital of India. This state has a history of carpet weaving that goes back centuries and the trade has been learnt from the original carpet makers-the Persians. With time the distinct, intricate weave of the Kashmir carpets has not only mesmerized royalties, but have become the focal point in many a commoners home.

Carpet from Kashmir. Courtesy Hewy via Flickr

If you cannot go all the way to Kashmir to get your prized carpet, the vast selection is available in most major cities like Delhi, Mumbai, Jaipur, Darjeeling etc. Be sure to bargain and choose only the hand knitted original Kashmiri ones as there are many who sell carpets made of synthetic fibers nowadays.

The carpets are definitely a high end buy.

Woolens

The Northern and the North Eastern states are known for creating some warm winter clothing that are comfortable, trendy and very very affordable. Do your bargaining right, and you can buy some quality cardigans, shawls, stoles, gloves even woolen woven shoes for the whole family back home.

Handicraft

If tulips mean Netherlands, Handicrafts means India. The whole country is buzzing with artistic talents that have been passed on from generations to generations. Be it the terracotta wares of Bengal, the sandalwood carvings of Mysore, the carved metal art of tribal areas of Madhya Pradesh or the blue gazed pottery of Jaipur. Just ask about the particular handcraft specialty of the area and keep a look out for one while sight seeing.

Handicraft Market. Courtesy Brajeshwar via Flickr

 Jewelry

Indian jewelry designs are known for the intricate work involved and the use of precious stones. Rajasthan is a good place to find some nice collection in Silver and gold and also buy precious stone that can then be placed into a customized design of your choice.

Jewels of India. Courtesy jainshashikant via Flickr

If you are not the one splurging on precious metals, you will be amazed at the variety of jewelry that you can get here, made of other items like pearls in Hyderabad, lac work in Jodhpur or even terracotta jewelry worth few rupees but truly worth buying selling in Bengal.

Textiles

Again, each area has its distinct specialty when it comes to the art of weaving. While Punjab is famous for phulkari embroidery work, Rajasthan and Gujarat are known for the colorful tie and dye work and also the mirror work. Tamil Nadu is where you can buy some intricately woven silk fabrics and Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh for the chic chikan work. 

Try to scout for the unique handloom item of the area and you will be amazed at the variety of things made from that one style. From Sarees, stoles, bed sheets, cushion covers, evening dresses, kurtas, skirts, jackets to even caps, your entire wardrobe can get an instant Indian flavor if you so wish.

Spices

Spices grow in plenty in the Southern states of India and you can get them in bulk any time of the year to stock up your home for many days to come. The aroma and the pure quality you can get here, is hard to find anywhere else.

Chillies and peppers. Courtesy Sudhamshu via Flickr

Tea and Coffee

While south is where you head for your pack of coffee, tea is a must buy from the north eastern states and especially if you are visiting Assam or Darjeeling. The taste and aroma is sure to make you reminiscence the days you spend touring India.

Foot wear

For some traditional Indian footwear, the best place to look for is Rajashthan for the ethical Mojris and Maharashtra for the famous leather work shoes and sandals of Kolhapur and other areas.

It is really impossible to contain the vast range of authentic Indian artistry in one post, so I hope you just visit the country and see for yourself the multitude of things it has in store for you.

‘Trees are the earth’s endless effort to speak to the listening heaven’, so said Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Thakur once, and if there is one place on earth where your heart utters the same emotions, it is in Pachmarhi, the only hill-station in the heart of India, Madhya Pradesh.

Nature’s beauty is manifested in all corners of this little hill town. From the cascading waterfalls, to the green shades embracing the numerous mountains, the twisted and turned pathways cut into the valley and the natural amphitheatres where bears still spend some entertaining hours, Pachmarhi offers to tourists a sanatorium of tranquility in nature’s lap.

Natural splendor. Courtesy Dreams_unlimited via Flickr

Discovered by chance by a captain of the British Army James Forsyth in 1857, this saucer shaped valley soon became a favorite haunt of the officers in the colonial past. Thankfully, the man-made structures in this green town are not distasteful at all and only add to the beauty. The churches and the cemeteries, and the numerous thatched roofs of colonial homes seem to mingle well with the peaks and troughs of the valley.

Pachmarhi also holds within its borders the tales of civilizations of a distant past. Scattered around the town are numerous rock cave paintings that are centuries old. There are animal painting and painting of tribal men, a detailed depiction of a musician playing his harp and a battle scene of men on horses; it is like a treasure trove for the students of history.  And graduating to a different era, there are also the famous Pandav caves named after the Pandav prince of the Mahabharata who seemed to have found shelter in the caves while roaming the land. In fact, Pachmarhi gets its name from these Pandav caves, so it is said.

Must visit

Here is a list of few places of natural and architectural beauty that you can admire at Pachmarhi.

Langur monkey, Courtesy Scotch egg via Flickr

• Forsyth Point – The place from where Pachmarhi was discovered by Captain Forsyth.
• Handi Khoh – A ravine shaped like a saucepan, hence the name Handi in Hindi language, it has a 300ft high precipice and spectacularly steep sides.
• Bee Fall – Provides drinking water to the town and is very popular
• Big Fall and Apsara Vihar (Fairy Pool) – Like its local names, this angelic location is ideal for a picnic and also to watch some spectacular species of natural world.
  

  Apsara Vihar, Courtesy Vikram Pratap Singh via Flickr

• Duchess Fall – The decent to this particular fall is steep but the end destination spectacular.
• Saunder’s pool – A little distance from duchess fall, it is ideal for a refreshing swim.
• Mahadeo – A stunning setting for a Lord Shiva hill shrine with a very beautiful shiva linga.
• Jata Shankar – It is a sacred cave formed by loose boulders that resembles the locks of Lord Shiva.
• Dhoopgarh – A popular sunset point, it also is a good location to view the entire region atop a hill.
• Pandav Caves – The protected monuments that once provided sanctuary to the Pandav Princes.
• Reechhgarh – An amphitheatre created naturally, it is entered through a cave like path and is still frequented by bears.
• Catholic Church- Built in 1892 it is a historical monument today with stained glass windows dating back to that era.
• Christ Church - 
  

  Christ Church. Courtesy east med wanderer via Flickr

• Satpura National Park – Close to Pachmarhi this park is home to bison tiger, leopard, bear, four-horned deer, blue-bull and a rich variety of birds.
• Bison Lodge – The oldest home in town it is today a museum of the flora and fauna found in the area.

Best Time to Visit

Pachmarhi is a veritable green paradise all year round and you can actually visit it even in the hot summer months of India. But off season winter months too offer peaceful and idyllic setting for a holiday.  

Location

Pachmarhi is 210 Km from Bhopal city, the capital of Madhya Pradesh and it is advisable to hire private taxis to reach the hill station from here as the state run buses are almost always crowded and bound to leave you weary. Bhopal is well connected by air and rail to all important cities of India.

Traveler’s tip

• During the month of Feb-March Pachmarhi celebrates the festival of Shivaratri like the rest of India and is populated with hoards of devotees. If you are there to getaway from crowd avoid this time.
• Because of the dense forest area, mobile signals are weak at most points.
• Wear comfortable footwear as there is lot of walking, climbing to do.
• Carry an extra pair of clothes to change after an instinctive dip in the pools or waterfalls.
• Look out for the spider webs inside the water bodies before you swim. It may not be fun anymore if the spider spots you.
• Most spots are still not very commercial and the raw natural beauty is still preserved. Therefore always carry essentials like water and snacks with you.

About 18 Km from Ahmedabad in Gujarat, India there is a small village called Adalaj. Normally, you would not even think twice about including this rural place in your itinerary. But, what makes this remote setting special and truly worth a visit is its step-well, an ancient water source that is both beautiful and useful in knowing how art can reside even on the walls of a well!

When we first came to hear of the Adalaj vav, as it is locally known, we thought of paying it a visit just because of the novelty of the whole affair. A well where steps lead you to the water was not a common sight after all. But what we were definitely not prepared for was setting our eyes to less of a well and more of an enclosed chamber of marvelous hand chiseled wall carvings.

The step-well is five storeys high, rather five-storey under the ground. There are three entrances leading to the stepped corridors which in turn have an octagonal opening on the top. As you step down each storey you are confronted with some of the most beautifully crafted flower motifs, elephants, peacocks and fishes adorning the walls reminding one of the carved temples of ancient India which tourists are more used to seeing.

Engraved beauty. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

But even before you begin appreciating the intricate carvings on the walls, what catches your attention first are the erect pillars, 16 in all standing in perfect symmetry and supporting the whole magnificent structure. Even these flaunt some exquisite designs of flowers, and other frenzied motifs.

The Pillars. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

View up from the well. Courtesy twobythree from Flickr

Although the actual well has been closed with a wire mesh nowadays to avoid mishaps, there was a time when this particular place was not only frequented by people in need of water, but also by caravans and travelers looking for a night’s shelter or as a halting point to rest their feet.

Even today, we felt, the place felt cool and inviting, away from the scorching heat of an Indian summer and filled with artistry that someone could spend hours observing and admiring.

Gujarat as a state, I later found, is filled with these amazing heritage sites. There are a total of 120 step-wells in the state with Rani Vav being the oldest. With a vision to conserve the scarce water and not depend totally on the unpredictable monsoon, the medieval architect with patronage from the then rulers built these remarkable structures that today also preserve history within their walls.

What is also a very interesting story about the Adalaj step-well is about the lady, who built the well. It is said around here, that in the 14^th century the place was ruled by a Vaghela chief called Veer Singh and his wife was queen Rudabai. Once in the battle for supremacy between the chief and another ruler named Sultan Beghara, the sultan killed the chief and asked the queen to marry him. Queen Rudabai thought of a way out of this lurid proposal by asking the sultan for some time till the construction of Adalaj step-well was finished. He agreed not knowing that the queen had other plans. When even after waiting for years the Sultan could not get the hand of the queen, he again proposed and it was then that the queen too proud to marry a person who had killed her husband, submerged herself into the water of the well.   

We had begun our journey to just see a step-well but we ended knowing much more. The tale of a monument built for a practical purpose that also hides within its walls tales of diligent craftsmen who breathed life to plain stones, and the tale of a queen who laid her life to save her honor.

Do make sure your itinerary of Gujarat includes this heritage treasure buried in the grounds of a small village, Adalaj.

If seeing royalty and their affluent lifestyles makes you wish to be a king or Queen, you can do just that, in India, in the Palace on Wheels. This super luxury train has been conceptualized keeping in mind the ardent wish of many tourists who are attracted to the rich cultural treasure of India and also the opulent life of the Maharajas who once ruled the country.

The Palace on Wheels plies from Delhi via Jaipur, Sawai Madhopur, Chittaurgarh, Udaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Bharatpur, and Agra then back to Delhi. While all these places encompass a wide variety of natural, historical and ethnic attractions, the journey on the train itself, is something of a majestic treat. Because once on board, you are no more a person of the 21st century, but an honorary guest who deserves to be treated like any other King of the bygone era.

Welcome! courtesy Bahadur Singh, Indien from Flickr

Luxurious entourage

The train begins its journey every Wednesday of the week from Delhi. After a day’s visit to various attraction of the National capital, the guests enter the train with much fanfare and a royal welcome. The luxurious cabins are in stark contrast to the other passenger trains of India and easily remind one of a typical Indian palace setting. And the best thing is, although the look is historical the amenities provided to the guest are at par with any modern facilities around the world.

Coaches

There are 14 coaches of the Palace on Wheels and each coach has been named after a former Rajput state, with even the interiors, the décor, matching that of the royal past and suiting the aesthetics of the state. Each saloon has a mini pantry and a lounge to ensure availability of hot and cold beverage, refreshments and a place to relax and get together.

The rooms are lavishly done and make one forget that you are indeed sitting in a train. Wall-to wall carpeting, custom made furniture, music, intercom, the chambers have a distinct aura of regality.

Lavish Interiors. Courtesy Bahadur Singh, Indien from Flickr

Restaurant

The train has two lavish restaurants “The Maharaja” and “The Maharani” with a Rajasthani ambience serving palate tickling Continental, Chinese, Indian and Rajasthani cuisines. For those new to the Indian way of dining, the 8 day journey is also a good way to appreciate the varied delicacies of this part of the world.

There is also a bar offering the choicest of spirits and a library with varied collection of books.

The Itinerary

Day 1 begins in Delhi and by late afternoon after a tour of the city and lunch, guest board the train.

Day 2 is for Jaipur, the pink city with its magnificent palaces and thrilling shopping experience. The folk dancers only add to the typical Rajasthan feel of the journey.

Day 3 is a favorite with nature-lovers as it is on this day when the train halts at Sawai-madhopur. Here there is the Ranthambore tiger reserve; the den for tigers and also 24 other species of mammals and 300 species of birds.  With a fort in the background, some beautiful lakes in the foreground and a forest in between, you can’t ask for more for some amazing photo opportunities here.

Day 3 is also reserved for Chittorgarh, which has one of the largest forts of India built in the 5^th -8^th century.

Day 4 into the journey takes you to Udaipur, the lake city which enchants with the city palace and the dream-like palace on lake seemingly floating on the blue water.

Palace on Lake, courtesy Geoff McGrath from Flickr

Day 5 has sun, sand and sensational architectural marvels in the form of the fort of Jaisalmer. The city is the western most desert city with a prominent place in history as the passage to Persia, Africa and other trading countries. Must-see here: the sand dunes, Must-do: the camel ride.

Day 6 takes you to Jodhpur where stands the omnipresent Mehrangarh Fort. It is also home to Umaid Bhavan Palace a grand historical monument that still breathes regality anywhere you see. This palace has 347 rooms and partly still serves as the Royal residence of the Maharaja.

Day 7 you are in Bharatpur where stands the Lohargarh, or Iron Fort. This is the only fort in the state to have bastions of mud, which proved meritorious because they simply swallowed up the cannon shells not allowing them to impact.
The Ghana National Park one of the finest bird sanctuary in the world is also a treat, with over three hundred species of birds, many of them migrant that come from parts as distant as Siberia and China.

Day 7 also takes you to Agra, where stands the most beautiful mausoleum of love known to man: the Taj Mahal. It is as grand as it has been made to sound and as beautiful. The more you see this white structure the more you are convinced that angels must have come to earth to create this mammoth beauty.

Taj Mahal. courtesy Anmol Bhalla from Flickr

Day 8 you arrive back to Delhi with a long cherished dream to lead an aristocratic life fulfilled on the Palace on wheels.

To know more about this royal treat visit,

 http://www.palaceonwheels.net/new/home.htm

If you happen to be few of those people who are the happiest when they are with nature and wildlife, this is one trip you would love to take. It is to the western state of Gujarat in India which is today, the only place in the world where you can find the free population of Asiatic Lions.

Courtesy NoamC from Flickr

The last bastion

How a part of India, namely the Sasan Gir National park in Gujarat state, became the only bastion of the Asiatic lion is a story oft repeated and commonly known. Rising human population, need for resources, hunting, deforestation, and habitat destruction have all played their part in restricting the king of the jungle’s terrain from a continent to a protected area of around 1421 sq Km..

But the good news is the lions are happy here. There population has increased manifold from a statistics of approximately 100 taken a century ago to more than 400 at present. Indeed, the Gir protected area has become a very stable ecosystem with tremendous regenerating, self-supporting and sustaining power due to its rich and diverse flora and fauna.

The distant cousins

What makes Asiatic lions a prized lot is because they are one of the two surviving sub-species of the lion, the other being the more popular African lions. These distant cousins have larger pride sizes, larger manes and absence of belly fat as compared to the Asiatic lions. But apart from these physical dissimilarities, the characteristic behaviour of both are very much alike. And visiting Gir can actually give you a nice oppurtunity to observe the similarities and the differences from close quarters.

Easy encounter

The best thing about this park is the ease with which you can sight a lion and many other creatures of the jungle.

There are few very good reasons for that,

• The park area is small as compared to the vast terrains of Africa, which is a more exotic choice for a safari.
• The lion to ground area ratio makes the probability of sighting higher.
• If you are lucky enough, you can catch a glimpse of peacocks, spotted dears, langur monkeys, marsh crocodiles, vultures, eagles, antelopes, blue musk deers, hyenas, wild boars, leopards and a lion all in the matter of couple of hours!

In fact, the Gir protected area boasts not only of a decent Asiatic lion population but also the largest population of marsh crocodiles in the country and another 38 species of mammals, around 300 species of birds, 37 species of reptiles and more than 2000 species of insects.

Spotted Dear, courtesy Raveesh Vyas from Flickr

The tribes

What you can also find here are the Maldharis and the Siddhis – two diverse human tribes who form an integral part of the Gir ecosystem.

Maldharis are basically nomadic herdsmen who have lived in the Gir region for centuries. The literal meaning of Maldhari is “owner of animal stock” and it is this livestock that has been the staple for many lions of the area.

The Siddhis are something of a novelty. They are an ethnic Indian group of Black African descent who have settled in the area. It is a delight to watch these people who look African but converse in Gujarati, the local Indian language, eat rice and sing and dance to the traditional African tunes.

Insider’s tips

• Sasan Gir National Park is in Junagadh district of Gujarat state in India. The nearest Airport is Keshod Airport, 90 km from Sasan Gir and nearest International Airport is in Ahmedabad 408 km from Gir.
• Officially the park is closed during the rainy season and open from mid October till mid June, but you ask any forest guide and he will recommend a trip during the hot summer months of India, because it is then when due to scarcity of water in the core area, the animals come out and can be sighted pretty easily.
  

  Playtime! Courtesy d ha rm e sh from Flickr

• The park tourist area has been divided into different routes and although the chance of sighting on these routes is pretty much the same, route number 3 offers more varied ambiences with the dry forest, green patches and a lake being covered. This allows chance of sighting the lion, marsh crocodiles and also with luck by your side – the leopards.
• Gir is a dry, decidious forest, so prefer wearing clothes in the shades of green, brown or grey for easy camouflage in the jungle and not scaring the animals away.
• Safaris are held twice everyday in the wee hours of the morning and evening after four. While morning time is when the hunt is over and the lions prepare themselves to rest for the day, the evenings are when most animals come out for their nocturnal routines. Do take both the safris if you can for experiencing the varied hues of jungle life.
• Carry snacks, water, scarf, sunglasses, caps and wear comfortable shoes.  

In a little village called Talala in Junagadh district of Gujarat, India, two men are avidly discussing cattle, rains and other local gossip. Under normal circumstances you would not even look twice in their direction. But here, something is visibly different. Because although the men are speaking Gujarati, the local Indian language, they do not look Gujaratis, not even Indians but people from the distant land of Africa! As you look around slowly you are confronted with hundreds of similar men and women all around you, who look Africans but are otherwise eating, speaking, living like any other Indian in India.

Welcome to the land of Siddis- the Afro-Indian tribes of the world!

Courtesy Ripple SM from Flickr

From Africa to India

It is said, that the siddis are people of different tribes of East Africa, specifically Ethiopia, who came to India centuries ago some looking for work others taken as slaves. India has since early times traded with Africa. Sea trade between east and southern Africa, and Gujarat in India was established more than 2,000 years ago. Historians also suggest that contacts between Ethiopia and India have taken place since the times of the Greco-Roman Empire. Hence, even before the first people of Africa were brought to America, Brazil and the Caribbean, the sea-trade between the continents of Asia and Africa, ensured many Africans to work live and later settle in India.

As time went by, siddis became part of India like any other community of the country and came to be highly regarded for their honesty, strength, loyalty and ability to work very hard. Some Siddi leaders established principalities like the Janjira Island and the city of Jaffrabad as early as 12^th century. Some also rose in hierarchy as noblemen in Indian courts and close confidants to rulers. A prominent Siddi figure called Malik Ambar established the city of Khirki now known as Aurangabad and was even feared by the great Mughals for his intelligence and war tactics.

The name

Siddis were not known as siddis from the beginning, because it was not a specific group of tribes from Africa that came to India but many people from many tribes.

It was mostly Muslim traders who brought them to India. These Arab traders were called Saiyeds and therefore it is believed the name Siddi was used to denote the people brought by Saiyeds.

Another theory is that this word was the term of respect in North Africa and thus the group from Africa was addressed that way.

Some Africans were also part of an Arab invasion on India in the 7^th Century by Muhammad bin Quasim and these people were earlier known as the Zanzis but later they too came to be known as Siddis.

The language

The people of Ethiopia, who came to India for work, were from different tribes with similar languages and cultural habits. But in India they were all in small groups and in the beginning though they spoke in their native language, communication became more and more indianised with Indian languages so frequently used around them.

That is why, today, they speak fluently in Gujarati in Gujarat, in Goanese in Goa and in Kannada in Karnataka, the main three regions of India where Siddis can be found.

It is like a cultural concoction where they have formed their own ethnic enclave by retaining some of the Eastern African cultural uniqueness and also adapting to the Indian way of living.

Courtesy Raveesh Vyas from Flickr

Religion

Majority of the Siddi today, are Muslims owing to the influence of the Muslim dynasty they served and also the Muslim traders. But some also follow Hinduism and Christianity in Diu, Daman, Goa and Karnataka states.

The dance

Go to any Siddi village today, and you will not find any specific habit, custom or culture that reminds you of their African past except perhaps their energetic dance called the dhamal in Gujarat. This is the Goma music and dance form which is believed to be derived from the Ngoma drumming and dance forms of East Africa.The Goma also has a spiritual significance and, at the climax of the dance, some dancers are said to be the vehicles of Siddi saints of the past.

Like the  vibrant dances Africa is associated with, this dance too performed by the Siddi youths on special occasions, is colorful, vibrant and full of life. While the dresses and face painting grab your attention initially, once the dance starts, it is the rythm and the  ritualistic chant and movement, the beating of the drums that takes you to a new high with each beat.Some also show various antics like breaking coconuts on the head or forming a human pyramid etc.

Ongoing Performance, Courtesy sanjayausta from Flickr

In a country where every few steps you will find a new custom, tradition, or ethnicity , the Siddis offer yet another global angle to the multicultural diversity of India.