Sun City, South Africa, used to be renowned mainly for it’s comprehensive gambling facilities, attracting gamblers from all over the world.  Now, it is known as the premier holiday resort of Africa.  Of course, gambling is still on the menu, but it is now accompanied by a complete African experience.  Golf and gaming feature heavily as the things to do in Sun City.  Also called “Africa’s Kingdom of Pleasure”, Sun City will dazzle the whole family.  Whether you like horse riding or prefer watersports, you’ll be happy.   Or, if you just like to chill-out with a cold beer or cocktail, you can do so  in one of the gourmet restaurants and bars.

Sun City Superbowl

Officially opened in 1977, Sun City, which houses the Sun City Superbowl which has seen many famous artists from all around the world perform there, has become the envy of the African entertainment industry.  Situated in the North West Province of South Africa and only two hours drive from Johannesburg, it is very easy to get to for international visitors.

Valley of the Waves

 

Pilanesburg National Park – Malaria Free

Don’t ask me how they did it, but it’s true, a malaria free safari zone.  Pilanesburg National Park, which borders the Sun City resort has, within it’s borders, all manner of wildlife including Africa’s “Big Five”, namely; the lion, white and black rhino, elephant, buffalo and leopard.   Pilanesburg National Park, at one time, had been almost ruined by the exensive settlement by commercial farmers and the resultant decline in the range and numbers of wildlife.  However, the effects have been remarkably reversed between 1979 and 1993, by the most intensive and most expensive regeneration program undertken by any game reserve in Africa at the time (Operation Genesis).

Pilanesburg National Park

Pilanesburg by Air Balloon

Gary Player Country Club Golf Course

Sun City Accommodation

There are four hotels in the Sun City resort and all of them very charming and luxurious.  The Palace of the Lost City has an interesting history and worth checking out:

The Palace of the Lost City

The Cascades

The Sun City Hotel

Cabanas

For more information about this destination please visit:

Sun City Resort

The Zambezi river, Africa’s fourth longest and parent to Victoria Falls, stretches 2′200 miles.  Starting at the Central African Plateau, the Zambezi passes through or serves as a border for six countries: Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Mozambique, Namibia and Angola.  Finally, it drains into the Indian Ocean after landing in the Mozambique Channel.  It hosts two major hydroelectric power stations, the Kariba Dam providing power to Zimbabwe and Zambia and the Cahora Bassa Dam serving Mozambique and South Africa.  This river is impressive, rough and rapid in some places and calmly flowing in others.  It supports an abundance of wildlife and feeds endless plants as it ’s’ shapes it’s way from the Congo through to Mozambique.  Many an adventurous and sporty tourist have flocked to the Zambezi for whitewater rafting or Kayaking.  There are three navigable sections to the Zambezi river, the upper, middle and lower sections.

Victoria Falls

As spectacular as this mighty river is, we are only going to be looking closely at it’s largest water fall, Victoria Falls, in this blog.  So named by David Livingstone (the Scottish explorer) in honour of Queen Elizabeth of England.  The indigenous name for the falls is Mosi-oa-Tunya (The Smoke That Thunders) and this is the official name used to refer to it in Zambia.  Zimbabweans just calls it ‘Victoria Falls.’  Victoria Falls marks the end of the upper Zambezi and the start of the middle Zambezi.  It also forms part of the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Devil's Cataract

You will not be dissappointed by the wonder of such a powerful and magnificent show of natural beauty and strength.  It was no wonder that David Livingstone, upon seeing these falls, remarked that “angels in their flight” must have “gazed” upon this awesome site.  David Livingstone is credited as being the first European to view Victoria Falls and as previously mentioned, he named them so.  Between 1852 and 1856, David Livingstone navigated the whole of the Zambezi river from it’s source right through to it’s mouth in the Indian Ocean.  I’ve always wondered what inspires such men to know all there is to know about whatever takes their fancy.  I imagine that it was no small task to say the least. 

Victoria Falls Bridge

The falls were not of much interest to Europeans until after 1905 when a railway crossing was built to facilitate Cecil Rhodes’ mining efforts and desire to conquer Africa in as many commercial ways as possible.  Cecil Rhodes’ drive to create a railroad running from Cairo to the Cape, brought about the plans for the first crossing of Victoria falls.  He made sure that the bridge was positioned so that trains would be sprayed by the falls as they passed.

Since the building of the bridge, tourism has steadily increased over the years until, by the turn of the millennium, more than quarter of a million people visited the falls annually.  Now, due to the affordable and easy access by road, there are more Zambian and Zimbabwean tourists than international ones.  This is unlike the game parks.

Things to See and Do

I'm sorry - I would pass out!

The falls themselves are enormous with lots of varying views of different aspects.  You can take micro-light or fixed winged flights over the falls if you’re not scared of heights.  I’m sorry, but I am a chicken, I couldn’t do it.  If I get to close to any deep drop I have to fight with the sheer fear of wanting to jump or fall coupled with a chilling shiver through my spine.  I’m not suicidal, it’s just a fear that many people have including me.  Okay, just me. 

On the opposite side to the falls you can walk through the rain forest and at times you’ll be able to see clearly enough to catch a glimpse of the falls.  You’ll soon reach Knife Edge Bridge where, during the dry season, you’ll be able to savour a stunning view of the falls.  In the rainy season the spray makes it more difficult to see but you’ll love the cooling mist all the same.

During the dry season, if the water is low enough, you can actually walk along the river to Livingstone Island, the place where David Livingstone first viewed the falls from.  Remember, you are walking across the upper Zambezi, by the crest, not along the gorge where the water crashes.  That would be suicide.

'Devil's Pool' - Natural 'SAFE' swimming.

Devil’s Pool is allegedly safe to swim in when the water level is low enough.  Sorry, I just watched I’m afraid.  This natural pool sits right on the crest of the falls and swimmers are apparently prevented from being hurled over the edge, by a natural rock formation providing an ample lip to the pool.  It just scared the living daylights out of me.  I really wish I was a Steve Irwin type or Bruce Willis, but I’m just a big scared cat when it comes to  things that look dangerous, but supposedly are not.  However, I wish that I had the guts because the thrill must be intense.

There are quite a few wildlife parks in the Victoria Falls area, where you can see most of the spectrum of African animals both large and small.  Safaris are popular and a must see if you make it to Victoria Falls.  For more information regarding short and long tours to Victoria Falls visit:

Victoria Falls Short Tour

Victoria Falls Long Tour

Hotels in the area are usually extremely well appointed.  One that comes to mind is the Zambezi Sun Hotel.  The fine African designs inside and out, rivalled only by the excellence of service, make this hotel a very popular choice.

Zambezi Sun Reception

For five star accommodation then the first choice would have to be the Royal Livingstone Hotel.  I’ll let you all have a look around the pictures and reviews of this one in your own time, but if you can afford it, you’ll never forget the experience.

Have Fun.

Jay

Praslin Beach courtesy of Kirikou.com

Well, you have now. Mahé is the main island in the Seychelles and renown for its timeless beauty and tranquil surroundings.  Mahé was named in honour of the 18th-century governer of Mauritius.  Some of the best beaches in the Seychelles are found here as well as the international airport and the Seychelle’s capital, Victoria.  Mahé  and it’s satellite islands, Praslin and La Digue, form the hub of the tourism trade and are known as the inner islands.  The international airport in Mahé is where all external flights land before the visitors are forwarded to their particular destination.  I say destination because, the Republic of Seychelles comprises of 115 islands, 41 of them form the worlds oldest mid-oceanic granite islands, the rest are coral and

Beau Vallon - Mahé

reef islands that appear to have been sculptured for paradise.  The group of islands known as the Seychelles lie between 480km and 1′600 km away from the coast of east Africa.  The weather is lovely, hot enough, but never too hot or cold year round.  The temperature rarely drops below 24 c or above 30 c and the winds are pleasant when you feel them.

The first record of a setttlement here was in 1770 by the French, who led a small party of whites, Africans and Indians.  The population was just 3′500 when Britain took over in 1814 and had risen to 7′000 by 1825.  Seychelles achieved independence from Britain in 1976, becoming a republic within the commonwealth community.

The ethnic mix in the Seychelles is of the creole type, with a French and African blend, including the obvious presence of Indian, Chinese and, in fact, cultures from most corners of the globe.  You will love the pace of life here and relaxing aura.  This is home to some of the worlds rarest species of flora and fauna with 20% of Mahé being taken up by the Morne Seychellois National Park, a must see if you love nature.  In fact, nearly 50% of Seychelles already limited landmass is specifically for National Parks and Reserves. 

Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve

Two must-sees in the Seychelles are Aldabra, the world’s largest raised coral atoll and Vallée de Mai, in Praslin.  Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve was inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1983 and is a natural palm forest left almost undisturbed by human interference. 

Aldabra giant tortoise

Incidently, they are estimated to weigh around 250kg, do not try to lift one! You will probably be aware that the Latin language has been used to describe every living thing known to mankind.  This creature’s name is ‘Geohelone gigantea’ which I suppose means ’something really big.’  Just for your information, the oldest known one of these died at the spritely age of 250 years old in an Indian zoo back in 2006. 

Not all of the islands have accomodation available but most of them are available as excursions.  With so many islands available you’ll be spoilt for choice in this luxurious archipelago.  There are so many things to see so for more information on available tours, flights and sights visit:

Seychelles Tours

Seychelles Hotels

Seychelles Flights

Zanzibar and Pemba

Hakuna matata, swahili for ‘no problem’, should be the phrase you prepare yourself with as you drift into this oasis known as Zanzibar.  Known by many as the setting for the hit musical ‘The Lion King’ this place lives up to its reputation.  The only problem is, there are no lions in Zanzibar!  Anyway, we will not harp on that fact.  Zanzibar is a  place where rushing is unheard of and where beaches surround this once prominent slave port, ivory and spice exporter.  Zanzibar,  comprises of many islands in the Indian Ocean, just off the coast of Tanzania in East Africa, but the main two are Zanzibar (often called Unguja) and Pemba .  Although now part of  the United Republic of Tanzania, Zanzibar still elects its own parliment and, as such, is semi-autonomous.

The history of Zanzibar is steeped in romance and bloodshed as Arab traders in the 9th and 10th century conjured up the foundations for a thriving slave trading port.  Ivory and spices were also exported in large amounts.  The capital of Zanzibar is Zanzibar City and the old Stone Town within is of great historical significance, so named because of the sheer number of multi-storey stone buildings and Stone Town has been designated as a ‘World Heritage Site’ by the United Nations.  The buildings are actually made of coral and morter, not stone.  Its age has been widely debated, ranging from five or six thousand years ago, built by indigenous Africans who inhabited the whole of this region around that time, to more recently by fishermen or Arab Slave Traders.  The Arab influence is very strong and consequently, 97 percent of the population are now Muslim.  The remaining 3 percent are a mix of Christian, Hindu and Sikh.

Paje Beach

Boatbuilders in Nungwe

See boatbuilders in Nungwe along the northern coast where traditional designs continue to live by the hands of the descendants of age old African shipbuilders that some how make the process look easy and enjoyable. I, on the other hand, cannot even build a paper boat, with full instructions and diagrams.

There are so many things to see in Zanzibar, from the natural wonders of thousands of marine life, to the historical sites and buildings that have combined to make Zanzibar the hidden jewel of Africa.

Jozani Forest

Red Colobus Monkey

Home to the Red Colobus Monkey.  The Red Colobus Monkey, numbering only 1500, are known locally as ‘Kima Punju’ – ‘Poison Monkey’ in english, because local myths speak of the poisonous effects of their ingredients and dead trees or crops are thought to be evidence that these monkeys have been feeding in a particular area.  Jozani Forest is also home to other species of monkey, small antelope and the flora and fauna found in this tropical paradise. 

Snorkling and diving in Zanzibar is world renound as you enter an underworld paradise full of tropical fishes, coral reef, turtles and dolphins.  Beachside barbecues in the evenings are not to be missed and what I learnt most about this island is that you need to want to relax.  This is not a place for extreme sports or extreme anything.  This is exotic pleasure, not designed for those with the insatiable apetite to risk their lives.  Unless, of course, you want to hunt unprotected for sharks, with your eyes closed and an open wound.  Suicide. 

 

Stone Town Door

Stone Town tours are very popular where you can stroll through a town that has remained unchanged for over 200 years.  Wander through its winding alleys and spend hours pondering over the many bazaars.  Marvel at the Arab houses that their owners tried hard to make more elegant than their neighbours.  You will see how the doors of these houses appear to be part of an extravagance competition,  the carved wood adorned with gold studding.  With more than 500 examples of this craftmanship one becomes aware of the one-upmanship practiced by these proud Arabs.

Prison Island

Prison island (Changuu) is just a relaxing 20 minute boat ride away by traditional Dhow (shipping boat), from Stone Town.  This tiny paradise is just half a mile long and 250 yards at its widest point.  It was originally used as a detention centre for reluctant slaves, but now, one would pay to go there.  The old prison ruins have been converted into dwellings for tourists and the island is praised for its snorkling opportunities and, of course, its giant tortoises.    

Giant tortoises

These giant tortoises can live to over 200 years old and many have. Imagine what they have witnessed!  Any tortoise whisperers would have a field day.  The larger ones can easily carry a grown man on their backs with ease, if not with speed.

To conclude, Zanzibar is definetly worth visiting.  It would normally be a destination that you would add to your itinery during a stay in Tanzania and is a perfect addition to any east African tour.  For further information about available tours and holidays visit:

Holidays in Zanzibar

or call Cat at dialaflight on:

+44 1732 593086

Until next time

Jay

Mount Kilimanjaro

Tanzania is home to the worlds largest, free standing mountain, Mount Kilimanjaro.  The meaning of which is surrounded by much disagreement.  Some say it means ‘The mountain which cannot be conquered’ whilst others claim it means ‘White’ or ‘Shining little mountain’.  Many others say that it has no meaning.  Whatever it does or does not mean, it is huge and the best views of this mountain are found from across the border in Kenya.  The attraction for many a traveller, is to climb this great wonder (often said to be the 8th Natural Wonder of the world) and there are six routes available ranging from easy to difficult.  So, if you have conquered all of the hardest assualt courses available to you in your country and were strong enough at the end of them, to go for a 5 mile run whilst making a sandwich, then try out the harder routes, backwards!  More about Kilimanjaro later.   

What will impress you about Tanzania is its ‘Grass Roots’ feel and although it has been affected to a certain extent by tourism, you still get the feeling that you are in an African’s Africa.  There are three tribes in Tanzania: the Hadzabe, Datoq and most popular, the Maasai.  The Maasai are a very proud people and are the most feared by the others.  They have managed to restrict outside interference in their traditions and culture.  You will be mesmerized by the vibrant colours that they wear and their polite demeanor.  But do not be fooled, they bow to no man.

Maasai

The Maasai tribe live in northern Tanzania and southern Kenya so you will not be surprised to learn that the two countries were once a single entity.  That is, before Germany, led by Karl Peters with his dream of a German East African Colony and England, carved them into two, with Germany enjoying Kenya to the south and England, Tanzania to the north.  Historically, it was Tanganyika until it was united with the island of Zanzibar to form Tanzania.  

Ngorongoro Conservation Area

Ngorongoro Conservation Area consists of various archeological sites, but the main attraction by far is the Ngorongoro Crater.  This site used to be an active volcano and the crater was created about two million years ago when the cone collapsed creating a tropical expanse of twelve miles wide and two thousand feet deep. 

Ngorongoro Crater Lions

Ngorongoro Crater - inside

 

 

Serengeti: Serengeti National Park

Siringitu – ‘the place where the land moves on forever’.  So was the name given by the Maasai who have lived and grazed their herds there for millennia.  The Serengeti itself covers an area of 30′000 km sq and actually encompasses the Ngorongoro Crater as well as the Serengeti National Park and many other places of interest.  Up until the early 20th century, white men had no idea what existed in this vast area until, in 1913 a man named Stewart Edward White (ironically), an American  hunter, set out from Nairobi and upon stumbling on the Serengeti, referred to it as ‘paradise.’  The Serengeti flows across the northern border into the Maasai Mara in Kenya. 

Hungry croc launches attack on migrating wildebeast

Although we have covered safari in another blog, I must say that the Serengeti is where the king of all natural wonders can be seen.  More than 1.4 million wildebeest, around 200′000 zebra and gazelle, instinctively surge towards the rains in a circular, clockwise direction.  From the north eastern part of Tanzania, down south and across to the west and up through the Serengeti.  Finally, across the Mara River into the Maasai Mara of Kenya.  The whole cycle then repeats itself throughout the year, giving interested folk ample opportunities to catch sight of this relentless migration, as well as predetors the chance of an easy meal as millions of these preprogrammed followers, both large and small, struggle their way through crocodile infested waters.

The annual pattern of this migration is quite predictable, however, the exact timings are not, as they depend on actual rainfall.  So, the wildebeest normally give birth to their calves around february time whilst large herds graze on the southern Serengeti in Tanzania.  Around April they begin their migration northwards through Moru Kopjes and Seronera.  By June there is a pause by the Grumeti River, where their numbers build up dramatically because progress is delayed by blocked channels.  Although awaiting crocodiles feast happily on the confused masses, the crossings of the Grumeti River are not so dramatic and better views are had on the later part of their migration when they cross the Mara River.

In September, the migration has reached the northern stretch of the Serengeti ready to embark on the most ferocious and deadly part of their existence – crossing the Mara River into the Maasai Mara Game Reserve.  Nothing can change their minds, it’s instinctual, even if many are to perish by the teeth of the Mara River crocodiles, it is their destiny, their mission.  Their fate.  Those that make it, will live on to continue the cycle and breed again in the southern Serengeti region of Tanzania, and have the opportunity of risking all again next year.

A few recommended places to stay whilst you are in the Serengeti are:

Lobo WIldlife Lodge Serengeti

Serengeti Serena Safari Lodge

Seronera Wildlife Lodge Serengeti

Singita Grumeti Reserves Lodges Serengeti

Read their reviews and do some of your own research.  I’ll include some helpful links at the end of this blog.

Mount Kilimanjaro

Mount Kilimanjaro is not one volcanic cone, but three.  Namely, Kibo, Mawenzi and Shira.  Kibo, the tallest, stands at 19′340 feet.  It is on this mountain that you will find an example of practically every ecosystem that exists on earth.  From desert, through rainforest to snowfields.  The truth is that only 10 percent of climbers that set out to reach the summit, Uhuru (freedom) Peak, actually make it and the first to do so was a man named Hans Meyer.  The oldest person to successfully reach the summit was 87 years old and Bernard Goosan, a South African, has done it twice in a wheelchair!  After knowing this, you just have to do it now, don’t you?  I do not want to hear anybody complaining that their feet hurt either.  There are six official routes up the mountain. The easiest routes are called Marangu and Rongai, so get going.

There are many different places to stay when at Kilimanjaro, depending on your budget and demand for luxury.  When climbing the mountain by certain routes there are also places to rest and eat (some that serve beer!).  Happy travels and researching and as ever, we’ll do our best here to assist you with your African adventures.

Well, thank you for joining me on this journey through Tanzania.  We have not exhausted Tanzania, only space and time.  Our next blog will cover Zanzibar, which as you may remember, is now part of Tanzania and offering gorgeous beaches and relaxation.

For general help with holiday planning and ideas for all Tanzanian attractions:

Holiday ideas in Tanzania

Until Next time.

Jay 

 

Game?  I see no game.

“Hot dust choking, swirling, smashing, the thuds of panicked hooves and screams of dislplaced young.  The tearing growls and slashing clawls deliver no mercy.  The chaos of perfection, the chase for the hunt, the hunt for the kill, the kill for survival.  What started with the grace and light footedness of a ballerina, ended with the deadly force of a Stealth Bomber.  There is no game here - as games are for men – only life skills in action.” Jay Otaigbe 2009

The word ’safari’ in swahili means ‘journey’.  The original safaris had nothing to do with wildlife and more to do with trading, especially slave trading.  In the beginning of the 20th century, after slave trading became less profitable, the safari became more of an adventure and appreciation of the natural world.  Early safari involved game hunting and the term ‘Big Five’ was coined referring to five particular animals as being the most ferocious animals when injured.  Namely, the Lion, the African Elephant, Cape Buffalo, Leopard and the Black Rhinoceros.

For those of us who have the luxury of not worrying about how breakfast will arrive, imagine the idea of smoked salmon and cracked black pepper with lemon juice on granary toast.  Mmmmm.  Now imagine chasing a giant fish across a five mile arid plain with wild bracken slicing through your calves, whilst balancing a lemon on your forehead and a grilled tomato between your legs.  That, is a chase.  Somehow, your appetite is lost.  So how do those couragious animals go through that every single time they want a simple meal?  The fact is that, there is no such thing as a simple meal and that to chase and to kill is the only way.

Watching the excitement of the chase, the tension and anticipation of the kill, are all things that make even the idea of a safari full of adventure and the allure of the unexpected.  It is no wonder that millions of visitors enter Africa each year looking for the thrill of  the hunt or the beauty of the wild.

Sararis are available in many African countries, but the most popular destinations are:

Kenya

• Masai Mara
• Tsavo East National Park
• Tsavo West National Park
• Amboseli National Park
• Lake Nakuru National Park
• Aberdare National Park

Tanzania

• Serengeti National Park (Great Wildebeast migration from Maasai Mara to here)

South Africa

• Kruger National Park

Botswana

• Selinda Reserve

Zambia

• South Luangwa National Park

A Rhino, one of the 'Big Five' in Lake Nakuru National Park

There are other parks but I have listed the ones that are reviewed as being amongst the best.  For example, I went to Nairobi National Park and was driving around for four hours just to see a load of monkeys and some Giraffes.  I would not recommend it if you are serious about seeing any of the ‘Big Five’, only if you wanted an adventure based on getting lost and ending up in extremely hard to traverse terrain heading into the night hours.  We got lost and found ourselves on such rough ground that it should have been blocked off.  We were in a little Toyota and I thought we would get stuck and then eaten by  lions.  Oh yes, sorry, there were no lions.  The incline felt like a 75 degree angle and the rocks were bigger than our wheels.  I saved the day of course with my skillful driving.  Yeah right, lots of baby wipes actually.

Nairobi National Park - I stayed for four hours and this is all I saw!

To be fair to Nairobi National Park, it is a man made park where most of the animals have to be shipped in.  In addition, wild animals do not perform for humans unless by accident.  Patience is really a virtue when it comes to spotting any of the ‘Big Five.’  Be sure to take part in an organised safari tour as the guides would have selected the best time and places to view certain species (unlike me who used to just wonder around looking for beasts on my own).

Safari holidays are available for all budgets, ranging from the back packing experience, right through to the delux tent, lodge or hotel. 

When

You can go on safari anytime but there is a High and a Low season where the prices differ.  Of course high season commands higher prices for safari and hotel accommodation and starts 4th January until 31st March and starts again from the 1st July to the 15th December.  Low season starts from the 1st of April to 30th June.  There are also periods when surcharges apply such as Valentines day, Easter, Christmas and New Years.

For further information on safari and adventure holidays in the countries that we have covered, visit any of the links below:

Click here for Safaris in Kenya

Click here for Safaris in Tanzania

Click here for Safaris in South Africa

Click here for Safaris in Botswana

Click here for Safaris in Zambia

Tip

Whenever you are on a tour, safari or any trip for that manner, try to create your own contacts with locals that you meet.  Then, in future, when you are offered something in particular, you can always go to your local contact to see if they can get it for cheaper.  You will start to create a reference point when it comes to quality and price.  You don’t have to go with your local contact if you don’t want to, but you will have something to use when negotiating with your current providers.

Have a nice trip – and don’t let the lions bite.

Jay

In our first post on Mombasa we travelled from the airport to Bamburi beach where we found accommodation, then alternative accommodation.  We looked at the Severin Sea Lodge where we had a nice stay but discovered that it was overpriced for the level of service that we were given.  I must say, as I forgot to mention in our last blog, you must check out the Imani Dhow Restaurant in the Severin Sea Lodge.  It’s not cheap, of course, but the Swahili style atmosphere and authentic musical accompinement by a resident Swahili artist is very romantic indeed (even if I went in there by myself).  It is actually made from an old Swahili Dhow ship that has been cut, preserved and made into a restaurant.  The vessel juts out from the rear side of the hotel and you are surrounded by the palm trees.  The most cost effective way to visit this hotel is by way of a package tour which will include a safari plus 10 nights at the hotel – according to their site – these depart from Germany.

Be sure to investigate the beach frontage as you can walk along the beach from The Severin Sea Lodge to Papweza Suites via many a good place to stop, such as a place called Pirates.  Pirates is a bar/restaurant and on the weekend they often have volleyball and basketball tournaments.  Pirates has a public beach area where you’ll mix more with the locals especially on the weekends when families enjoy their country along with you.  Some tourists prefer to stay cocooned in  their own spot but not me, I’m all over and everywhere!

I have also heard amazing reviews on Nyali Beach Hotel and from what I saw, it looks impressive.  I went there for dinner one evening and was pleasanlty surprised.

We then moved on to papwezasuites where I was blown away by their one, two and three bedroom suites with stunning views of the beach and Ocean.  Once you’ve settled into your accommodation, you’ll want to explore your surroundings a little.  I advise that you use the hotel taxi service and befriend a driver.  After your first trip, arrange future trips on a cost by day basis.  Haggle for a good bargain and even get price comparisons for quarter and half day prices.  If you walk around the corner from Papweza Suites, near the gas station you’ll see a bar called ‘Cheers’ and whilst you may be tempted to hang around in there, just go there to find a taxi.  If you go in looking for anything else, you’ll probably find it.  Actually, they do a lovely keg  (draft beer to us Brits) Tusker, ice cold and a variety of snacks!  But right now, you need a taxi. 

Ask the driver to take you to Mtwapa, it’s a few miles drive up the Nyali road where you’ll pass local life and culture.  Don’t be scared to stop and investigate with the help of your driver, it’s safer than many places in the US or UK.   Just observe your normal measure of caution when in a place that you are not familiar with.

There will be several places to stop and eat but I would recommend stopping at the Moorings seafood restaurant that floats on Mtwapa creek.  You cannot miss it as you’re driving towards Mtwapa.  You’ll drive over a lake and you’ll notice it on the left just floating and tempting, turn the next possible left turn and, although it looks like the road doesn’t lead anywhere, it does.  The food is lovely and the atmosphere the same.  Check out their site for more information: Moorings.

The whole journey is sprinkled with night spots and restaurants worth popping into even if it is for one glass – just to catch the vibe.  If you’ve been in Kenya for more than ten minutes you’ll be aware of NYAMA CHOMA (barbecued meat) which is very very tasty.  One word of warning though, as with any tropical destination, be prepared with diarrhoea medication and please, it sounds crazy, please carry some baby wipes!  Even if you’re a grown man you’ll appreciate the comfort they may give you during the hard times.  Be careful where you eat and if you are not from Africa or used to outdoor eating in a semi-rural setting, choose to dine in places with adequate kitchen facilities.  I’m not saying that you should try to find a place with a fitted kitchen – just use your better judgement.  Also, please do not over eat – that’s when the problems can happen.  Sample food when away from the hotel, but do not stuff yourself.

After passing through Mtwapa, you’ll end up in a place called Kikambala.  You’re thinking “So?” but you’ll really need to go that far to experience what I believe to be, an unmissable venue.  Porini Restaurant, a combination of typical mombasa cuisine mixed with seychellois and here, you can stuff yourself.  It’s mouth watering!  Make sure to try the Porini Chicken and ask them to show you their Giant Aldabra Tortoises.  They also have reasonably priced accomodation worth checking out if you want to keep the expenses down and although you will not be close to the beach, the atmosphere will more than make up for that visit: www.bokoboko-kenya.de for more details.

Mombasa South Coast

Now, if you go to Mombasa and do not visit the south coast – you’re mad.  No other words for you.  You can catch a taxi, or, if you’re comfortable by now you can hire a car and drive yourself there – I did.  You can find cheap cars to rent in Mtwapa.  Just look out for the signs.  You’ll drive through town and then board the ferry.  Well, not as easily as that.  You’ll want to get directions first, but it’s not hard.  Once you’re there, before going anywhere, go to Forty Thieves Corner in Diani Beach.  There’s a lovely bar and restaurant with a mixture of seating from perched over the sea to snuggled, enclosed and romantic.  The venue oozes down onto the beach with as much elegance and grace as is naturally possible.  Kenyans frequent this place so you  know the food’s good.

Large Tembo Villa

I like to keep things homely, so the place that I’ll recommend you stay is a very homely but luxurious villa perched just a few rows back from the beach in Diani.  There is a very large villa in the compound and a smaller cottage.  Tembo villas is not one you are likely to be able to find on just any online travel site.  You will need to contact the owner directly, Lenrick Guy.  His contact details are on the website but the website is not so good.  Please do not be put off by this and try to call or email him.  He just isn’t gifted in that area, that’s all.  Tell him Jay from London sent you.

Tembo Cottage

The compound has a 12 metre swimming pool and is ideal for families as it is very secure and homely.   Lenrick, the owner, is very well known by the locals and is involved with several local programmes to further enhance the local facilites.  He is very approachable too.

Well, I guess we’re done with Mombasa for now so you can go looking for those flight deals.  Remember to visit www.dialaflight.co.uk or call (+44)01732 593086 and ask for Cat as a part of your flight searching.

                                                                                                                                                   Think of eighty five degrees, soft sand in your toes and peace.  The tranquil tickling of cool water sprayed wind, caressing your fore head as you sip a glass of chilled white wine.  You watch the beach boy in the distant shallows anchoring his small raft-like structure and you begin to slowly drift into a world of no work and no cold.  You start day dreaming about how you might stay here forever and how you could even withdraw your pension in the years to come from the ATM along the Nyali road.  All you would need, surely, is your laptop and a good internet connection!   That’s it, you’ll work remotely!  “Jambo jambo” awakens you as the new waiter takes over from the one serving you up until now.  Gladys did say goodbye but you were too deep into your dream to hear her.

That was just a five minute clip of what will happen to you at some point during your stay in Mombasa, Kenya.  Once you arrive at Mombasa airport you’ll feel free and relaxed.  Of course the heat will greet you in no small amounts but the airport is open plan and you walk straight from the aircraft, across the tarmac, to where you collect your bags.  It’s quite a refreshing experience because you can more or less see the whole process normally hidden in large airports.  You may well be walking alongside the vehicle carrying your baggage, hop on if you’re feeling lazy. Just kidding!  When you pass through customs you’ll be surprised how hassle free the experience is.  Well, that has always been my experience, perhaps because I’ve always flown internally from Nairobi, so all major security has been carried out.  I’m a bit of an adventurer in that way and always spend at least a night or two in Nairobi before flying to Mombasa.  I love how the comparison feels. 

Big Daddy - Man Eating Croc @ Mamba Village

Visit Mamba Village Crocadile Farm and taste some Crocadile meat before it tastes you.

Anyway, we’ll save Nairobi for another blog.  Just be aware that most flights by the major airlines fly via Nairobi and the aircraft transfer is not automatic.  By this I mean you have to collect your own bags and ferry them across the airport road to the internal terminal.  This actually isn’t as bad as it sounds but just so that you don’t go to the connecting terminal thinking that your bags will follow you.  They will not.

Leave the exit gates of the airport terminal and feel like you are in very civilized outdoor marketplace.  You may start to feel that it is you that is on sale as each of the Taxi firms try to latch you in eye contact to win your business.  They make assumptive gestures to win your trade and promise you the very best prices.  This is where you must put your bargaining hat on and fear nothing.  I have had a fare dropped from £30 down to under £5.  Don’t be shy to move to the next vendor for a better price and please, don’t be scared to make ridiculous offers to test their movement.  Believe me when I tell you that 99.9% of the time the first price you hear will be far from what you should or could pay.

Now, any stay in Mombasa should cover the North Coast, where you’ll find Mombasa town itself and of course, the South Coast.  In both cases, you’ll want to be close to the water, although internal towns are always worth visiting but when you think that you have the rest of inland Kenya to explore, why go inland when you’re in Mombasa?  Your first port of call, after the toilet, will probably want to be your hotel.  Now, depending on your budget and class, there are many hotels to choose from I’m sure and there are also lodgings available for those who like to travel on a shoe string budget.  Straight from the airport you should be heading for Bamburi beach where most of the hotels are found.  Now, the Serena Beach and Sarova Whitesands Beach Resort are probably considered as amongst the top hotels along Bamburi beach so I didn’t even consider them.  I could not even imagine that they would impress me when it comes to my Dollar: Quality score.  I love quality and love first class accommodation, but I hate being ripped off.   If you are of presidential calibre then of course you would want the guaranteed security that these hotels offer but otherwise, your money would be better spent elsewhere.  But that’s just me.

The first hotel I gave a chance to was the Severin Sea Lodge in Bamburi Beach.  This is classed as a 5 star hotel  but is smaller than the other two mentioned earlier.  We had pre-booked a superior room because I like to experience the best a place has to offer first (if I can afford it) and if that cannot make me happy, then I will vacate the establishment altogether.  Less time wasted.  It was around Valentine’s Day when we arrived and I remember being pleasantly surprised by the airiness of the superior room, although I felt that there was something missing.  I couldn’t really see the Ocean.  Superior rooms do not have an Ocean view!  What is the point in being in a Paradise on the beach on Valentine’s Day, with your loved one and you’ve paid for a superior room with no Ocean view?  Anyway, the Hennessy VSOP that I picked up in Duty Free soon made me forget about that.  To get close to the beach we had to walk through the hotel, either through the bar or lobby and passed the pool, then the Comfort rooms….Hold on, those rooms are cheaper and they have an Ocean view.  At least, some type of Ocean view even if they are not literally sitting on the beach.  Off I went to reception in my usual ‘I feel like I’ve been hard done by’ huff.   Reception found a way of convincing me that the room I had was the best room even if it was located next to the engineering workshop.  They informed me that the rooms that I was talking about do not even have TV’s and are less comfortable.  But they looked cute and round, so anyway, I shut up, for now.

Swing Bar

My view from Swing Bar - I should have been a Photographer!

The best parts of the Hotel by far are the staff, except reception, and the Swing Bar!  Boy, did I spend until sunset and then some at that bar.  The view was to die for and I couldn’t work out why I was hearing German more than Swahili.  Was it the ice cold Tusker (Kenyan) beer translating the Swahili into German?  Or do Germans love this place (Mombasa) as much as I do?

Okay, the first time I was easy on them.  The second time I was not so easily appeased.  Our room was on the top floor and with no elevator so my then pregnant wife struggled with the stairs.  We managed to get transferred to the ground floor but the room was damp and the service changed immediately.  Each day the room cleaning appeared to decrease until it appeared to not be cleaned at all.  For the money we were now paying for this superior room this should not be. 

Anyway, with my vexed mood we went for a walk down Nyali Road towards a bar/restaurant called ‘Big Tree’ which boasts the standard open-sided, thatched roof construction - lovely and peaceful location overlooking the beach.  If you ever get there make sure to try the chicken noodle soup.  You can reach it by turning off the Nyali Road, to the left, just by the first gas station after the Bamburi branch of Barclays bank.  First, you’ll see a  Bar called ‘Cheers’ which is famous (perhaps notoiously at nights) for its vibrant atmosphere and snacks.  You’ll follow signs for ‘Big Tree’ although they’re not so easy to see as they look hand painted and on the way (I’ll now let you into why I took you down this back street), you’ll see the entrance to a hidden diamond, never even mentioned on the travel sites.

 Pa Pweza Adamsville Beach Suites – wow, I was impressed!

We found it by mistake on the way to ‘Big Tree’.  We just saw the great gate  at the front closing as we passed and I caught a glimpse.  I thought it was a mansion but then saw the sign post – so understated.  I managed to get in and was converted on the way across the car park to reception.  I mean, I could see the Ocean as I walked, through the reception seating area and across the beautifully landscaped gardens.  Cut a very long story short – they are suites, forget piddly little rooms with dampness, and for half the price. 

They have 1, 2 and 3 bedroom suites each with ensuite facilities, kitchen, living room and veranda to every room.  The rates are 9′400ksh, 12′400ksh and 22′200ksh respectively.  By todays exchange rate (17th July 2009) that is about £75, £99 and £177 respectively.  These prices are off peak prices and I normally travel off-peak anyway.  Check out their website for peak time rates but I can asure you that they are far cheaper than most places of tourist calibre.  There’s even internet connection for next to nothing for your whole stay.  I’ll stop now, but I will say – GET ROOM 201 – when I’m not there of course.  It’s an end room and although most rooms have a Ocean view (imagine, not even superior) the end rooms have  direct, sniff the Ocean priviledges.  Awesome and staff are great.  I will sing this establishments praises because they deserve it.  Yes, I had a few issues which I made sure that they sorted out but the overall experience was amazing.  We went from a superior room for over £150 pounds a night,  damp decor and no privacy, to a 2 bedroom suite with ensuit this and veranda that for under £100.  We even invited friends to stay with us so we had six in our suite all with privacy for a under £100.

 For reservations call +254 (041) 5480340  You can tell them that I sent you (Jay from Gifted Travel) and that you want room 201.  Not early November though because I’ll be in it – sorry!  Visit their website for more rates and information:

www.papwezasuites.com

We’ve run out of space for this blog but look out for Part 2  where we look at the south coast, where to eat and where to party, amongst other exciting things. 

You can find direct flights to Mombasa from selected airports aboard charter flights but not, so far as I am aware of, by any airlines directly, at least not from the UK.  For top notch advice on all of these points check out www.dialaflight.co.uk.  If you are calling, which I strongly urge you to for a comprehensive, real time assistance: +44 1732 593086 and ask for Cat.  Tell her that I told you to call.  You can do all your other research first and then call them or call them first.  You will not be disappointed.  I used to call them last and they, 98% of the time, beat the prices that I had already found and 2% of the time they matched  them. I would not recommend them otherwise.

Until next time – Jay