SXSW (aka South By Southwest) is fast approaching, and here in Austin this is a rather crazy time of year. (I mean, aside from the freak snowstorm we experienced yesterday!) Locals are trying to snap up wristbands to get into events, hotel owners are jacking up prices in anticipation of the rabid hoardes of film and music fans descending upon the city, and new venues are being slapped together literally at the last second to hold all of the shows that’ll fit into the space between March 12 and 21.

Just one example of some of the weird things you'll see at SXSW (photo by Scott Beale / Laughing Squid)

While I’ve, personally, never been a huge fan of attending live music events (call me crazy, but I like listening to music alone in the dark through my headphones), the SXSW festival is the best of three very different worlds: music, film and interactive technology (i.e. computer and video game nerdiness). So, really, there’s a little something for everyone.

While my husband has been getting psyched about all the neat experimental musicians who will be in town for the event (including the excellent neo-classical/avant cellist Zoë Keating), I’ve been poring over the lists of films that are going to be shown at this year’s festival. Man, there are a ton of good ones! How will I ever be able to see them all?!

Sad to say, since I do have to work for a living, I definitely won’t get to see everything on my list. However, if you’re trying to organize your SXSW schedule and make sure you check off every single item on your to-do list, I thought I would point you in the direction of a few good sites that will help you do exactly that.

1. The official website, SXSW.com, is obviously a good place to start. It’s got all the official news, announcements, lists of parties and performances, and the insane schedule for absolutely everything going on between March 12 and 21. Try not to be intimidated by the massive amount of things going on and pick one sub-section to focus on at a time (music, film, interactive) to avoid being overwhelmed.
2. Do512.com is another good place to cruise, especially in terms of the music side of things. They’ve got all of the musicians playing at SXSW listed alphabetically, by popularity, and even by hometown, so you’ll easily be able to locate all your favorites as well as some new finds. Current favorites on the site are Toronto’s Broken Social Scene, Austin’s own Spoon, and New York City’s We Are Scientists.
3. Angrysong is the blog of an Austin-based computer programmer named Donald Mason, who also happens to be a very dedicated SXSW-er. His suggestions on how to pick bands to see at the fest, as well as the very useful link to the Home of the Unofficial SXSW Torrents (which he says he sifted through in its entirety to devise his personal fest schedule), will definitely come in handy when your eyes start crossing and you begin mumbling “But… who… are all of these people?!” With 15 years of SXSW-ing under his belt, I think this is definitely news we newbies can use!
4. Need more good advice on where to go, what to do, and which bands to see? Check out this blog by Bob Knoxious, entitled “My 2-cents of Bad SXSW Advice,” where another 15-year veteran of the fest advises you to avoid shelling out for wristbands, refuse to “go easy” or “take it slow,” and try to cram as much fun and as many freebies into your SXSW experience as possible. Rock on!
5. Film lovers should absolutely check out Film School Rejects‘ extensive SXSW previews, especially those looking for advice on which flicks truly must not be missed. Shun the typical and figure out what’ll really fry your noodle, with the help of some true movie junkies who don’t give a darn about the hotshots from Hollywood.
6. And finally, SXSW Baby! is the festival’s unofficial blog, run by longtime fans and participants with lots of advice on the fest, as well as the city outside the fest. (Huh? There’s life in Austin outside of 1,800 bands, a buttload of movies, and all the computer geeks you can handle?!) They’ve even got links to ride and room shares that’ll help you save money on transportation and sleeping accommodations (y’know, if you actually plan on sleeping). Very wise indeed.

Having recently finished a short-term contract working at the University of Texas at Austin’s Co-op Bookstore, and having previously served as the Board President for Montreal’s Concordia Community Solidarity Co-op Bookstore, I thought I’d share a (relatively) brief blog regarding some of the interesting differences I’ve observed between two co-op businesses working within the same sphere. Both function as bookstores in their respective cities, and both have their strengths, so I thought you might find it interesting to see a compare and contrast, especially if you have no idea what the heck a co-op is to begin with.

Concordia Co-op

Montreal's Concordia Co-op Bookstore entrance (photo by Laura Roberts)

As initially explained to me by my friend Larissa, the manager of the CCSCB (or Concordia Co-op Bookstore), co-ops are business models that function based on the will of their members. In the case of the Concordia Co-op, members direct the actions of the Co-op on the basis of one person = one vote (or one sponsor = one vote, in the case of group memberships). To become a member at the Concordia Co-op, you pay a $10 membership fee for life (or $100 if you’re a group that wants a membership) and you’re in. You can then vote at the Annual General Meeting (generally held in November), become a Board member (also at the AGM), or exercise your influence by talking to the store manager directly. Your membership entitles you to special discounts in-store, which vary depending on the list price of the items in question, but generally range from 1-10% off suggested retail price.

One of the most interesting aspects of the Concordia Co-op is its textbook consignment service, where students can set the price they’d like to sell their used textbooks for, give the book to the Co-op, and receive money when the book sells. The Co-op marks up the seller’s price by 20% to achieve a profit, but the student receives exactly the amount he or she has set for the book. Neat, right?

All in all, the Concordia Co-op does not attempt to out-perform the main Concordia Bookstore, but offers important parallel services that allow students to cut their textbook (and pleasure reading) costs, recoup significant savings by re-selling their books, and buy unique artisan-made gifts and crafts while they’re at it.

Co-ops vs. Collectives

It’s important to note that co-ops are not the same as collectives, which require a complete consensus of all members in decision-making procedures. The Concordia Co-op relies on a general majority rule, but does not enforce strict adherance to Robert’s Rules of Order, which requires a certain percentage of members to be present at the AGM in order for votes to count. The Co-op is owned by its members, i.e. anyone who has chosen to purchase a membership (note: in light of their recent fee levy win, potentially all Concordia students will now be considered members, although I’m not sure what their specific policy is here). This is interesting, because it means that all owners of the Co-op can, for a mere $10, use their membership to help direct policy, planning, purchasing, hiring and much more.

Most members, obviously, are only interested in the discount on books and other in-store merchandise that the membership offers.

UT Co-op

UT Co-op Bookstore (image via universitycoop.com)

At the UT Co-op, on the other hand, I’m not entirely sure who is entitled to direct the actions of the store, outside of the CEO and President, George Mitchell. There is, however, a Board of Directors, similar to the one at the Concordia Co-op, and these people receive a special in-store discount of 40% off all merchandise during their tenure.

As for how one might get involved with the BoD, though, this remains a bit of a mystery. There are currently two seats available to UT students, and the remaining Board is made up of two more students, four faculty members, and a faculty chairperson. The current UT BoD consists of the following people:

Michael Granof Chairman – 2001-Present Ernst & Young Distinguished Centennial Professor of Accounting, Ph.D.	Jefferson Stein 2009-2011 McCombs School of Business	Linda L. Golden 2008 – 2012 Marlene and Morton Meyerson Centennial Professor in Business, Ph.D.
Steven Goode 2007-2011 W. James Kronzer Chair in Trial and Appellate Advocacy and Distinguished Teaching Professor, JD	Sue Greninger 2006-2010 Secretary To General Faculty, Ph.D.	Minette Drumwright 2009-2013 Associate Professor College of Communication , Ph.D.
Mathew Hite 2008-2010 McCombs School of Business	Morgan Davis 2009-2011 College of Fine Arts	Sanchir Enkhbaatar 2008-2010 College of Natural Sciences

You can also see the rest of the important people who work at the UT Co-op here.

The most interesting aspect of the UT Co-op, in my opinion, is the rebate program. UT students are encourage to buy their books and assorted Longhorn paraphernalia at the Co-op, keep their receipts, and then at the end of the academic school year (by June 30) can turn in these receipts to ultimately receive a rebate of up to 10% of their total purchases. As per the UT Co-op’s website, the rebate is set by the BoD each year, and therefore varies, but most of the time averages out to be about 10%. Students therefore receive store credit, which can either be refunded in textbook form the following year or in UT’s patented burnt-orange goods for those who are nostalgic graduates. You can apply this rebate to virtually anything in the store. How cool is that?

In addition to the rebate program, the UT Co-op also offers a “Texas Exes” program to graduates, enabling them to receive 10% off all Longhorn goods for life. This means that UT grads can buy bumper stickers, t-shirts, anti OU-hats and banners and much more with their 10% discount in all of the UT Co-op outlets across Texas. Again, is that cool or what?

Different strengths

The Concordia Co-op is near and dear to my heart, mainly because one of my best friends in the whole world currently manages the store. I’ve volunteered my time as a Board member, performer, baker, cashier, and more in order to make sure that this little co-operatively run independent bookstore succeeds. I’ve sold copies of my zine there, bought great erotica and gender studies books, gotten gifts for friends and relatives, and even picked up cheap school supplies. The store is, in some sense, a place that I consider a home away from home, with their liberal reading policies, interesting doodads, and even a couch (and ConU wifi!) in the back. The staff has always been super friendly, and so I’ve always wanted to buy something—even if it was just something small—in order to show my appreciation.

The UT Co-op is a completely different planet, and mainly sells all things burnt orange to die-hard UT fans. It’s not bad, just different. Having never attended UT, I’m not nearly as compelled to snap up items with “Texas” emblazoned on them as others might be, but having worked at the store for about a month, I was beginning to feel the undeniable pull to add more burnt orange to my wardrobe. (I currently own only one UT shirt, and it’s grey. It was mainly purchased in the hopes that the Horns would Hook ‘Em at the football championships, thus showing my support for the team in the rush the next day, but unfortunately that didn’t happen.) I was surprised to see how much Longhorn paraphernalia the store actually sells, including items as diverse as rhinestone Bevo car decals, burnt orange Bevo-branded pepper grinders, and even a Texas Magic 8 Ball.

As a friend of mine who originally hails from Utah pointed out, “Y’know, the bookstore at BYU actually sells… books!” At the UT Co-op, the books are situated in the basement, while both the main and second floors are entirely devoted to UT gear. That should give you some idea about the store’s priorities. I wouldn’t say this is wrong, given Texans’ Longhorn mania, but it just goes to show what sells at a university bookstore and what is considered… well, let’s just say less relevent.

I think both stores bring different strengths to the table, and find each of them unique in their niche. The Concordia Co-op is all about heart and mainly functions thanks to the personality of its effervescent manager, Larissa, while the UT Co-op is all about raking in the dough and then spreading their wealth around. They each benefit students in different ways, and I admire them both for their committment to giving something back to students—a group that is often overworked and underprivileged. If you’re ever in Austin or Montreal, I would definitely recommend checking them out, and if you get a chance to compare and contrast like I did, more power to you!

The UT Co-op Bookstore is located at 2246 Guadalupe in Austin, Texas, and the Concordia Co-op Bookstore is located at 2150 Bishop in Montreal, Quebec.

The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center in Austin always gets great reviews as a fun and educational place to spend an afternoon enjoying nature. With free admission for the month of January, it seemed like it’d be a good way to spend my day off, so I drove down to La Crosse Avenue to check it out. I was looking forward to seeing some pretty flowers, snapping some photos, and maybe even composing a few lines of poetry, à la Montrealer Angela Leuck’s A Poet in the Garden (Leuck posts poetry that she writes in the Montreal Botanical Garden throughout the warm months of the year, often bringing special “guest poets” along for the ride).

Unfortunately, I must say that my trip to the Wildflower Center was a disappointment, as there didn’t seem to be much of anything blooming. There were a few tiny flowers hidden here and there amongst the tall grasses that threatened to swallow the place whole, and the hardy yucca and cacti were doing their thing, but for the most part it was obviously winter at the garden.

I was bummed, as I was looking forward to some pleasant scenery and peaceful contemplation, but instead all I saw were hibernating trees and overheard the unmusical sounds of children screaming. (There was, however, a very nice windchime, which offset some of the screaming with its Zen musicality. That was the best part of the experience.)

While my trip was a disappointment, I wouldn’t entirely write this place off, as reports are that wildflower season in the spring (April-May) is simply spectacular at the Lady Bird Center. I checked for photos online when I returned home, and here’s just a handful of the examples that I came up with:

Awesome, right? And that doesn’t even include the vast tracts of land which are currently barren, but which are supposedly filled with flowers as far as the eye can see in the spring and summer months!

So, it looks like I picked the wrong time to hit up Lady Bird, but I’m planning to return in the spring to see the Texas high country in full bloom as promised. For now, I’ll leave you with this lovely photo as an image of what you and I can (and will!) eventually be able to do to the LBJ flowers once they finally bloom in the spring, and a promise of more (and better) plant-related updates to come.

The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center is open Tuesday through Saturday, from 9 AM to 5:30 PM, and noon to 5:30 PM on Sundays. They are closed Mondays. Admission is free throughout the month of January, and is otherwise $7 for adults, $6 for seniors 60+ and students 13+, and $3 for children ages 5-12.

Public transportation in Austin is kind of a mixed bag, as I’ve discovered from riding some of their buses. While it’s certainly affordable, with prices per ride currently set at a mere 75 cents (though rates are being hiked up 25 cents to $1/ride as of January 18) and free rides for all students (with valid school ID), service can occasionally be a spotty, particularly when heading north or south to some of the “outlying” areas—like where I happen to live.

"Fancy new STOP button on Capitol Metro bus" by Flickr user mlovitt

Still, having come from Montreal—where fares seemed to go up every other month, and the last price-per-ride I paid with the STM was a whopping $2.75—Austin’s service is amazing. Express buses are great for avoiding the headaches of commuting by car during the week, offering convenient rush-hour service straight to the downtown core from either north or south of the city. Additionally, all express buses offer riders free wifi! I’ve been able to post Twitter updates, check my email, and find out when my favorite bands will be in town all thanks to CapMetro’s wifi, accessible on my iPod Touch. It’s definitely nice to be able to stay in touch with the worldwide web, even when you haven’t got a cell phone to surf on.

The only downside is that without the express bus service (which, btw, currently costs $1.50 per ride and is going up to $2.50) that takes me straight from the steps of my northern apartment to the front door of my downtown job, it’s a bit harder to get around the city. Instead of a 20-minute ride, I’m instead stuck with hopping from one local bus to another and an hour-long commute. Since there’s no subway in Austin, things can quickly become complicated as you navigate the system of express vs. local vs. limited/flyer vs. special vs. crosstown vs. feeder buses. Which ones go where? How do you know which ones will go where you want to go?

Working on Sundays, I wasn’t initially aware that my express bus route didn’t run on the weekends, so I was afraid I’d be stuck with an insane cab bill home and back that would negate any money I actually made that day. Luckily, however, there’s a Google trip planner available online, offering exact directions from one address to another and preventing newcomers from getting totally lost. The planner lets you choose which times of day and days of the week you want to travel, and then plots out the best way to get wherever you want to go, kind of like GPS for public transit. Sweet!

Screenshot of CapMetro's trip planner

Another interesting feature of the CapMetro trip planner is the fact that you can have it also plot nearby bike routes. If you’ve got a bike you’d like to ride around the city, this will give you some suggested routes and help keep you off main thoroughfares like Guadalupe (where there are bike lanes that seem to drop out intermittently, leaving bikers competing with cars for space.)

CapMetro has also been planning a passenger rail connection for Leander from downtown for quite some time, with area residents still wondering what the hold-up is all about. The train is supposed to use existing freight tracks, so it will only run during the day on weekdays in order to avoid freight trains. Last we heard (as of December 9, 2009, via Statesman columnist Ben Wear), the contract with its original service provider, Veolia, was terminated, new contractor Herzog was taking over, and trains still weren’t running except in “test” mode. When will passengers actually be able to grab a train to work? That’s perhaps the biggest mystery of 2010.

All in all, I’d give CapMetro a passing grade, though I could certainly stand having express buses that run on the weekends to take me downtown and back. Given the fact that Texas is a bit backward when it comes to public transit, since Texans love their oil and their cars, it’s definitely harder to get around the city via bus than it ought to be, but for those looking to take the stress out of their commutes, it’s definitely worth it to invest in a bus pass ($36 for 31 days of unlimited service).

If you’re a traveller on a shoestring budget, you’re undoubtedly aware that museums are great places to spend the day, especially when they’re free. For Austinites, UT students, and anyone visiting the city, the Blanton Museum of Art is a great place to check out what’s going on in the world of art. For the budget-minded, be sure to hit this museum on a Thursday (especially the third Thursday of the month, as they remain open until 9 PM) when admission is free!

OVERVIEW

The Blanton is a part of the University of Texas at Austin, and features a permanent collection of both modern and ancient art from around the world. Collections include items from Europe, Latin America and the U.S., with recent acquisitions including Anselm Kiefer’s mixed-media Sternenfall [Falling Stars] (1998), Paul Chan’s digital video projection 2nd Light (2006), and Giuseppe Bernardino Bison’s Landscape (1820s), seen below.

Giuseppe Bernardino Bison's "Landscape" (image via Blanton Museum of Art)

If you enjoy art, the Blanton is a great destination, and features a number of artists with star-power names. The modern gallery is particularly enjoyable, with works from Joan Mitchell, Franz Kline, Adolph Gottlieb, Max Weber, Jorge de la Vega and a temporary exhibition on the first floor from Brooklyn-based artist Teresita Fernández that features innovative and beautiful installations and large-scale sculptures.

I’m looking forward to seeing their February 2010 exhibition, entitled “DESIRE,” which will feature work from Marilyn Minter and Tracey Emin, among others.

POINTS OF INTEREST

As a few additional points of interest, you probably already know that flash photography is forbidden in most art museums, but the Blanton also discourages note-taking with ink pens. If you don’t happen to have a pencil on you when you arrive, the staff will be happy to provide you with a golf pencil for note-taking and sketching purposes. Otherwise, if you intend to study the artwork with your notebook, you may want to bring your own box of pencils (colored or plain old graphite are both okay).

"My pencil broke!" Your humble writer's golf pencil lead snapped in the Blanton entranceway; be sure to BYOP! (photo by B. Walker)

Similarly, I was surprised to find that the Blanton has a small room full of what at first appear to be ancient Greek statues in marble, but upon closer inspection turned out to be plaster reproductions. Why this fine institution would be displaying poor copies of originals is a question you’ll have to ask their staff, especially given the limited floor space for art in general, but since it is part of a university, my speculation is that they’re there for educational purposes. Still, as someone who has seen plenty of Greek art at the fantastic Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, this was a big let-down.

Finally, an oddly enjoyable part of the museum, for me, was actually the front entranceway. Though there are no works of art exhibited in the large and open foyer just past the admissions desk, the spacious turquoise-tiled room had a very Mediterranean feel. It inspired a great feeling of calm, and on the bright sunny day I visited, it was a warm and welcoming space to be in. Whoever designed this space gets two thumbs up from me, as it was really architecturally stunning.

Mediterranean-style portico or Blanton entranceway? Hint: It's the Blanton. (photo by B. Walker)

The Blanton Museum of Art is located at 200 East MLK, near Congress, in Austin, Texas. For more information, call (512) 471-7324.

I knew when I moved to Austin that I had to check out the Alamo Drafthouse movie theaters. The concept is simple: it’s a movie theater that also serves up booze. I’ve heard Chicago has a similar thing happening at The Vic (under the name “Brew and View”), but Austin’s Alamo truly blows the whole darn thing out of the water. Not only do they serve alcohol, but they’ve also got a full menu for those who like to take their “dinner and a movie” seriously.

And by “seriously, I mean “all at the same location.”

Alamo Drafthouse, Ritz location (photo via Alamo Drafthouse)

At first, you might wonder if all this chowing down and ordering during the films might turn a rowdy crowd loose, with NYC-style talking back to the screen encouraged. Luckily, the rules are simple and spelled out for newbies by groovy waitstaff: write your order on the slip of paper and place it standing up in the designated pocket. The waiter will come by to take and deliver your order silently, and will place a bill on the narrow table to pay before you leave. Warnings from Homestar Runner are also played onscreen to remind the audience to shut the heck up, turn off cell phones, and refrain from rowdy behavior. Sweet!

For those who do like to talk back to the screen, there’s another bonus feature: the Alamo’s regular Quote-Alongs and Sing-Alongs. Seen Ferris Bueller’s Day Off so many times you can quote the whole thing from start to finish? Lucky for you, there’s Quote-Along night, where “you’re required to yell out your favorite lines, stand up and dance to the best songs from the soundtrack, and play with a series of props that are handpicked for most movies.” For all those who’ve ever seen (and loved) the cult-classic Grandma’s Boy, for instance, there’s an upcoming Quote-Along scheduled for December 24. Even if you’re way too baked to drive to the Devil’s house or you’ve drunk too much of “Sophie’s tea,” you won’t want to miss this one, kid.

As the type of person who likes to comment aloud on movies (especially the really bad ones), I’m pretty stoked about the Quote-Alongs, as well as their Weird Wednesdays (where only $1 gets you in) and monthly Dionysium debates (for those who like to get their think on). If you’re a hard-working member of the service industry, you also get a break on Monday-night movies, pizza and pints. Nice!

As you may have guessed, all of the Alamo Drafthouse locations (they have four in Austin: Lake Creek, Ritz, South Lamar, and Village) have a strict 18+ policy, so this is an adults-only type of scene. Anyone underage is welcome to attend a flick, so long as their legal guardians come along for the ride. That’s just how Texas rolls where drinking establishments are concerned.

As far as the menu goes, this varies a bit from one theater to the next, but all feature movie-themed items such as “The Breakfast Club” (lettuce, tomato, smoked bacon and a fried egg on sourdough with chipotle mayo) and the “Royale With Cheese Burger” (an Angus patty with lettuce, tomato, onions, cheddar cheese, bacon and chipotle mayo). When I hit up the Alamo’s Village location, I tried one of their white wines during a viewing of Where the Wild Things Are. It was kind of surreal to be watching a kid’s book that had been made into a movie for adults whilst drinking wine as a few rugrats got scared to death a few seats over.

The only potentially negative thing I can say about the Alamo Drafthouse is something that isn’t really their fault at all; it’s straight-up biological. Basically, if you drink half a bottle of wine while you watch a movie, you’re probably going to have to use the bathroom about halfway through. This isn’t a big deal if you’re watching flicks at home, since you can just pause the DVD, but it’s a bit annoying to have to sneak out of a theater, pee, and then try to return to your seat in the dark without tripping over anyone. I would guess that this is why most cinemas don’t serve alcohol, but then again, they do serve those giant 48-ounce sodas, so who knows?

All in all, the Alamo Drafthouse is definitely my favorite cinema in Austin, and given its wide variety of flicks, it’s primed to become one of my top hangouts overall. Check it out and bask in just one of the ways locals like to Keep Austin Weird.

I recently moved to Austin, Texas, which is definitely a change of pace from Montreal! Despite the many differences, however, Montreal and Austin actually have a lot in common. You’re probably saying, “What? As if!”, so allow me to explain myself.

Montreal and Austin are both known for their indie music scenes. Montreal has Pop Montreal, while Austin hosts SXSW (South by Southwest), but the basic premise of each of these yearly festivals is the same: lots of up-and-coming artists vying for attention, plenty of indie rock performances, and lots and lots of rockstars taking the streets by storm. As this list of rules from local pizzeria The Onion indicates, sometimes Austin locals aren’t particularly fond of SXSW, but in general, the whole music-friendly-city thing definitely applies.

"The Onion rules" by Flickr user adactio

Just like in Montreal, Austin’s got a super low cost of living, coupled with a large student population (which may or may not actually drive the low cost of living). Rent is affordable, food is plentiful and cheap, and there’s tons of free stuff to do throughout the year (SXSW not, sadly, being one of them).

Unlike in Montreal, however, the weather in Austin is awesome! When I first arrived at the beginning of November, temperatures were still in the 80s (that’s about 26 Celsius, for my Canadian friends), and when I first moved into my apartment I was more tempted to use the central air-conditioning than the heater. Pretty much every apartment complex in the city boasts a pool, and while it wasn’t quite warm enough to dive in, I was definitely tempted to lounge poolside and soak up some rays while composing this blog!

According to the Insiders Guide to Austin (which I bought just prior to my move), the mean temperature here is 68 degrees, with the mean low around 58 and the mean high around 79. Of course, having said all of that, the radio was announcing the possibility for up to 5 inches of snow today, so I’m not entirely convinved that it doesn’t snow here, just yet. (Unfortunately for me, I gave away all my sweaters before I moved, certain I’d never need them again!)

A message you'd never see in Montreal ("Snowing in Austin" photo by Flickr user aaronisnotcool)

Another parallel to Montreal is Austin’s reputation as a highly literary city. Known for its most famous literary influence, the criminal-turned-short story writer O. Henry is Austin’s main claim to fame. It was here that the author began writing such tales as “The Gift of the Magi,” while working in a land development office. The town’s greatest literary hero was ultimately accused of embezzlement from his employers and served three years of a five-year prison sentence for his crime. In addition to O. Henry, Austin was also home to James A. Michener, who donated a significant amount of money to the University of Texas at Austin upon his death in 1997, which now founds the Michener Center’s highly selective MFA in Creative Writing. With an overall ranking of 4 in this year’s Poets & Writers Magazine guide to MA programs, the Michener Center is one of the best writing programs in North America.

In addition to its thriving artistic community, Austin is also home to an Internet tech hub that rivals that of San Francisco. Home to Dell Computers, Austin360, and Door64 (among others), this town’s full of geeks, nerds and people who demand free wifi wherever they go. If that sounds a bit like Montreal’s Ile Sans Fil initiative—which has been bringing free wifi access to Montrealers via one of their favorite pasttimes, sitting in cafés—that’s just another similarity between the two cities. Are Austin and Montreal long-lost sisters or what, man?

In short, Austin is a great city for anyone involved in the arts, despite its location in a state that is predominantly known for its guns ‘n’ ammo, shoot first/ask questions later approach to, well, everything. Austin is the capital of Texas, and although this sometimes makes for an uptight, governmental side (see: psychotic Austin drivers), it also has a very friendly, laid-back attitude that could make a groovy San Franciscan feel right at home.

Next week: Why “Keep Austin Weird” is the city’s unofficial motto!

This weekend marks the first of many weekends of arts & crafts, sci-fi, comic and zine and fairs in Montreal, with the Puces Pop DO-IT-YOURSELF Festival & Arts and Crafts Fair. When the weather turns colder, Montrealers love to cozy up with their knitting or start cranking out handmade items. Everything from zines and buttons to jewelry, clothing and local music can be found at these multimedia arts and crafts fairs. Don’t think cheesy church bazaar/white elephant sales (though often the fairs do take place in church basements), though; think hipsters searching for unique handmade gifts for their friends and family.

The Puces Pop Fair takes place this Saturday and Sunday, October 3 and 4, from 11AM to 7PM at St. Michel Church Hall (105 St-Viateur West), so be sure to stop by and check out their wares! With more than 100 different indie artists and craftspeople, featuring everything from one-of-a-kind artworks and high-fashion items to cupcakes, soaps and puppets, you’re sure to be surprised and delighted by the assortment of items on sale. Be sure to bring plenty of cash, preferably in small bills, as vendors are always looking to make change.

Con*Cept (October 2-4, 2009)

Also happening this weekend is Con*Cept, Montreal’s annual fan-run science-fiction and fantasy convention. Taking place at the Days Hotel at 1005 Guy Street, this convention covers “all aspects of fandom: literature, television, comics, art, gaming and much more.” With a variety of discussion panels and workshops, live gaming events, video screenings, an art show, sci-fi garage sale, and masquerade, there’s plenty to see and do for everyone who loves science-fiction and fantasy. This year’s guests of honour include artist Olivier Xavier, actress Karen Cliche, authors Kelley Armstrong and Natasha Beaulieu, scientist Donna L. Young, and filk musician Phil Mills.

Expozine (November 14-15, 2009)

Another important arts and crafts destination coming up fast is Expozine, the annual small press, comic and zine fair. It seems like Expozine just gets bigger and bigger every year, despite dire pronouncements that the Internet is destroying print media. Indie artists of all stripes vie for space in the Église Saint-Enfant Jésus (5035 St-Dominique) to sell their wares, though the emphasis here is on reading material and, to some extent, local music. The zine fair also hosts a yearly Alternative Press Awards ceremony, so anyone with a zine, comic or small-press book can submit their work for judging during the two-day zine fair. Awards are given for the best entries in each category for both English and French submissions, giving an equal spotlight to artists in both of Canada’s official languages and bridging Montreal’s infamous anglo/franco divide.

Quebec Arts and Crafts Fair (December 2009)

In December of each year, Montreal sponsors the Quebec Arts and Crafts Fair (Salon des Métiers d’Art) at Place Bonaventure (800 De La Gauchetière). Featuring art objects made of ceramic, wood, metal, textiles and other materials, the fair also features live music, fashion shows, demos and exhibitions by the artists showcased. This is a slightly more upscale fair than the others, but the concept is the same: Quebec’s independent artists showing off their work to the public.

Whether you’re an artsy crafter, zine-maker, comic book nerd, music lover, fashionista or simply looking for great gifts for someone you love, Montreal is full of great cold-weather fairs to keep you occupied. Check out some of these great annual events and help support the local art scene!

In case you’re still hungry for Verdun, I’ve got a few more hot spots in my borough for you to explore. These are the gourmet places you’ll want to check out if you’re a foodie, from cafés and bistros to fromageries and specialty groceries.

Most importantly, however, I must correct a mistake from my last post about Gastronomie le Naked Lunch, which—as a restaurant, at least—is sadly no more. However, it lives on in its gourmet canned goods incarnation, found in grocery stores and upscale boutiques throughout the city.

Bistronomie Terre Ferme – 4816 Wellington

Bistronomie Terre Ferme (via Bistro Terre Ferme.com)

As for the restaurant at 4816 Wellington? It’s currently called Bistronomie Terre Ferme and has been taken over by two employees of Naked Lunch, according to an article in Voir. Their current menu (which changes weekly, just like at Naked Lunch) includes a table d’hôte consisting of an entrée of crème de maïs vanillée avec pétoncle fumé-poêlé, popcorn et huile de truffe (smoked scallops with a vanilla corn-cream sauce, popcorn and truffle oil… there’s a recipe and video in French here, to give you an idea of what this dish looks like, as my description/translation makes it sound a bit gross). The main dish is flanc de porc confit, purée de courge musquée, légumes racine, sauce chipotlé (pork flank confit with acorn squash purée, root vegetables and chipotle sauce). For dessert there’s panacotta à la fleur de lavande, compote de Kumquat, and tuile d’amande (lavender flower panna cotta with Kumquat compote and an almond cookie).

This sounds fairly similar to the types of meals you would have found at Naked Lunch, so I don’t think the set-up has changed very much. They’re also still selling the Naked Lunch canned items, so it looks like the Naked Lunch relationship is still strong here, despite a change in ownership.

For more menu items, be sure to check out the Terre Ferme website.

Fromagerie Copette & Cie – 4650 Wellington

Fromagerie Copette & Cie (photo by Laura Roberts)

For those seeking more of this upscale vibe in Verdun, there’s a great cheese shop (or “fromagerie” in French) just up the street on Wellington that you should check out. Fromagerie Copette & Cie offers approximately one-hundred (!) different kinds of cheeses, including a wide variety of Quebec-made artisan cheeses that you won’t find anywhere else in the city. Thrifty Table has a great article on this shop, which offers store co-owner Luc Gendron’s suggestions for four regional cheeses that create a harmonious appetizer for a party of six, all for under $25. Take this list with you when you go to avoid going bankrupt in this small but pricey shop, as they’ve got some cheeses with price tags that will really raise your eyebrows.

Cha Noir Tea House – 4646 Wellington

Cha Noir Tea House, after dark (photo via Cha-Noir.com)

Got an hankering for some tea or chocolates? Then you’ll definitely want to check out Cha Noir Tea House! Next door to Copette & Cie, this little Asian-inspired tea house offers plenty of excellent loose teas to choose from (whether you’re into black, green, or anything in between), as well as desserts, fine chocolates and fresh fruit juices.

Want to take some tea home with you? Looking for a great gift for a tea lover you know? They’ve also got teas for sale in bulk, by the pound or kilogram, and accessories like loose tea holders and fancy teapots available for purchase. Tea-sampling workshops are also available in French for those that are curious about trying new things, and the walls often feature works by local artists to stimulate your senses as you sip.

Marché Branche d’Olivier – 4342 Wellington

Marché Branche d'Olivier sign (photo by Laura Roberts)

Marché Branche d’Olivier is a total godsend for home cooks and anybody who actually likes their food to have spice. While the usual grocery stores may carry amenities like salt and pepper, if you start asking for serrano chiles, they’re going to give you the “What the heck are you talking about, lady?” look. (Trust me, I’ve been there. Now, stop giving me that look, IGA, and learn how to source items your customers want!) For those hard-to-find “ethnic” items, there’s Branche d’Olivier, or The Olive Branch, a fabulous little grocery store that stocks everything from bulk spices to Indian canned goods to that special brand of salsa you love (Herdez is in the house).

If you’re looking for speciality items in Verdun, there’s a good chance The Olive Branch carries it. They specialize in natural and organic products, as well as Oriental (Asian, Middle Eastern) foods and spices. They’ve got organic white tea, fair-trade chocolate, natural soaps made from olive oil, a wide assortment of spices, canned chiles, dried legumes, fresh tofu… if it’s a hard-to-find ingredient in a recipe that goes beyond your grocery store’s realms of possibility, check here before making the time-consuming trip down to the Atwater Market. You’ll be glad you did.

Café La Tazza – 3922 Wellington

If you venture all the way down to 3922 Wellington, you’ll find Café La Tazza, a tiny café that serves up a mean cappuccino as well as offering a variety of gourmet items to those looking for foodie-friendly gifts. Though the café only holds eight tables, it’s a great place to stop in for a hot drink on a cold day, or to treat yourself to one of their homemade desserts.

On holidays and throughout the year there are coffee tastings and special themed items for sale; an article in the Gazette mentioned pumpkin pie and Halloween cupcakes for October 31. My husband and I popped in looking for truffle oil, which they don’t carry, but the owner was very friendly and made suggestions about where to look. If you’ve got a hankering for a certain type of coffee, like say authentic Kona, she can even make a special order for you if you’re nice.

Verdun is for foodies

From sweet to savory, high-priced to affordable, Verdun is full of great gourmet finds. You’ve just got to know where to look!

Last week, I gave a brief introduction to the neighborhood in Montreal where I live: Verdun. Since I deliberately kept this article short and focused on some of the odd elements of my ‘hood, this week I’m going to give you some suggestions on where to eat in Verdun—one of my favorite pastimes!

Villa Wellington
4701 Wellington (corner of 2nd Avenue in Verdun)
Open Tues-Fri 11AM-10PM, Sat/Sun noon-10PM, closed Mondays

If you’re visiting Verdun, the number one restaurant you MUST visit is Villa Wellington (except on a Monday, when they’re closed). Otherwise, you’re clearly the type of person who doesn’t know how to have fun or enjoy himself at all.

For starters, Villa Wellington is a Peruvian restaurant, which is something of a rarity in Montreal. The owners speak mostly French and Spanish, so if your main language is English (like me), you will undoubtedly find yourself communicating in a series of inventive gestures, broken Franglais, whatever Spanish you might know from Sesame Street, and lots of pointing at tables around you where delicious mountains of food are being devoured by ecstatic diners.

The menu consists of quite a number of seafood dishes, including a classic ceviche as well as some delectable calamari and shrimp options, but for the seafood haters, there’s also plenty of meat. Vegetarian options are limited, but if you like meat, this place is heaven. You can smell the grill from blocks away, and even if you’re just passing by on the street, your mouth will be watering. Seriously, it’s that good.

My husband and I love this place, and we usually end up ordering either the Coriander Chicken or Beef. Both are excellent, and are basically a Peruvian stew featuring chicken, potatoes, peas and carrots in an amazing cilantro-y sauce. I can’t remember the name of the other dish we order, but it’s a variation on the theme, but with a heaping helping of white beans on the side. Yum!

The portions here are huge, and the prices are very reasonable. If you have room after their homemade bread and enormous entrees, you should definitely try the crème caramel or flan for dessert. Perfection.

Pho Bac No. 1
4707 Wellington
Lunch served from 11 AM to 3 PM, dinner from 5 PM to 10 PM, free delivery available

Right next door to Villa Wellington you’ll find Pho Bac No. 1, serving up Vietnamese cuisine in a BYOB casual restaurant. This place is equally affordable, with more emphasis on grilled meats (vegetarians are apparently still viewed with suspicion here in Verdun), and a nice simple menu.

Typically, my husband and I like to order the Combo F, which consists of a small house soup (a lovely fragrent cilantro broth with vermicelli, pork and green onions), fried Imperial roll, small salad and an arrangement of three different grilled meats (chicken, beef and shrimp) spread across a bed of vermicelli noodles (or rice, if you prefer). If you dine in, you’ll also get a cup of coffee or tea included at the end of your meal.

As they mention pho in the name of the restaurant, it’s funny that I’ve never tried any pho dishes here, but I’ve heard that their Tonkinese soups are quite delicious. I’ve also tried their Chicken and Crispy Spinach with Peanut Sauce, which it was quite tasty, with some surprising cauliflower mixed in with the chicken here and there. The Shrimp & Chicken Sauté With Vegetables is also quite good, with plenty of different kinds of veggies, if you’re looking for a more pan-Asian type of dish.

Pho Bac is definitely #1 in my book, especially on nights when we don’t feel like cooking, as they offer free fast delivery. Super sweet!

Aka-Fuji
3872 Wellington
Closed Mondays, open Tues-Wed & Sat-Sun 4-9PM, Thurs-Fri noon-9PM

Another delicious restaurant conveniently located on Wellington (much further east of Villa Wellington and Pho Bac No. 1) is the amazing sushi restaurant Aka-Fuji, which is officially my favorite sushi place in all of Montreal.

Meet the chef! (photo via Hour.ca)

My husband and I first decided to visit Aka-Fuji after reading my fellow Hour writer Joshua Karpati’s positive review of the place. As he put it, “downtown’s loss is Verdun’s gain,” and since we’re always on the look-out for good restos in the ‘hood, we had to check it out, and were totally impressed with the meal, presentation and service. The pricetag wasn’t bad, either!

To start, we were brought a dish of wasabi peas as an appetizer. We also ordered saké, so they let us choose our cups, and we began drinking as they prepared our tempura. There’s a medium and a large tempura plate, and we opted for the smaller one, which came with four shrimp and a variety of deep-fried veggies. As Karpati says in his review, it’s a very light batter and not the super greasy/salty concoction typically associated with tempura. The shrimp were perfect, and although I burned myself on the veggies, I would give them a thumbs up as well.

Next up we went straight to the sushi. Unfortunately, they were out of the ingredients for the Spider variety (soft shell crab, avocado, bonito flakes, sea smelt roe, mayo), so we ended up going for the Spicy California instead. We also opted for some of the Spicy Hotate (scallop) and the Kara-Age (fried chicken, crab stick, omelette, cucumber, sea smelt roe, mayo), all of which were tasty, but I would definitely go for a few without mayo next time (oops!). The Aka-Fuji sounded delicious to me, but my husband isn’t a big fan of either salmon or eel (the ingredients are listed as shrimp, omelette, crab stick, grilled eel, salmon roe, squid, scallop, cucumber, Japanese squash, and lettuce, and I wonder how they can cram it all in!), so next time I may have to order them for myself and let him pick something else.

There’s plenty of sushi selection at this intimate restaurant, without being overwhelming as some places are, plus there are several combo suggestions for those who aren’t sure what to choose. The sushi was very fresh, and you can watch the chef in action at the counter if you’re interested. Dinner and a show!

Gastronomie le Naked Lunch
4816 Wellington
Open for lunch Tues-Sunday 11 AM-9 PM, closed Mondays

Naked Lunch (photo via Naked Lunch)

For those looking for a gourmet experience, and who are willing to pay a bit more for their meal, I would definitely recommend Naked Lunch. Named after the William S. Burroughs novel, Naked Lunch is a casual, upscale French bistro and wine bar with a rotating menu. If you’re in the mood to grab your food to go, they also offer a wide variety of delicious canned and take-out items, like a duck “smoked meat” sandwich and Thai coconut soup. Sample menu items usually include a modern take on standard French classics, such as coq-au-vin, and Asian influences like the aforementioned Thai coconut soup.

You can also find Naked Lunch’s canned goods in grocery stores throughout Montreal, so you don’t necessarily have to come to Verdun to get a taste of their delicious menu items. Check their website for more info on where to get the goods.

Les Délice de l’Ile Maurice
272 Hickson
Closed Sunday and Monday, open Tues-Sat 5-10 PM
Cash only

Chef Sylvester (photo via EatWellMontreal)

For the truly adventurous, I will end this list with what has to be one of the quirkiest BYOB restaurants in Verdun: Les Délice de l’Ile Maurice. Montreal Chowhounders have posted endless raves (and a few rants) about the colorful chef/owner, Sylvester, who will surprise and delight you both with his food and his unusual attitudes. Apparently he’s been known to kick people out of the restaurant for insulting him (by inquiring about the size of his shrimp, or asking to change tables), as well as for other minor offenses, so it’s best to stay on his good side if you intend to actually eat here.

Word on the street is that this is the place to go if you really want to eat, and Friday and Saturdays are the best nights to check it out. The menu varies, and Sylvester will ask what you’re interested in, basing your meal on what he has in the kitchen and a few words from you. If you’ve got an open mind, an interest in Mauritian cuisine, and an adventurous spirit, this is definitely the place to be.

For more info on great places to eat in Verdun, be sure to check out my cheap-eats resto reviews at Shoestring Montreal!