ZigZag Railway, near Lithgow, NSW

Although the trains of the ZigZag Railway, in Australia’s Blue Mountains will fascinate an enthusiast, even someone who has no interest in the machinery would admire the engineering skill that went into a line designed to overcome a serious obstacle.

The whole purpose of a railway is to reduce the friction of the wheels, to enable a heavier load to be carried for the same amount of power. That lack of friction works against the train if it has a steep slope to climb or descend. The usual way is to tunnel through the hill, avoiding the slope altogether.

'City of Lithgow' at Clarence

This, though, is very expensive, and, when they built the railway westward from Sydney in the 1860s, Engineer-in-Chief John Whitton did not have the money available to him. So, he decided to climb and descend the mountains by way of zig zags.

If you’ve ever tried to climb a hill on foot, on a bicycle or in a car, you’ll know that the easiest way up or down isn’t a direct route. It’s best to approach at an angle, and you’ll probably need to reverse direction at least once. You may have noticed that many mountain paths and roads form zig zags, usually, with a tight turn to be made at each angle.

So, when the railway reached the mountains in 1866, it needed to climb to a height of over 3000 feet. They did this by means of the Lapstone Zig Zag. This needed very little work, apart from laying the trackbed and the rails, and has now completely disappeared. But, to descend the mountains on the other side, at Clarence, much more work had to be done.

Over the next three years, the Lithgow Zig Zag was built, but, instead of just laying the track, as they had at Lapstone, they had to build bridges and short tunnels as well as the zig zag arrangement.

Clarence Station

Trains would descend down a gentle diagonal slope to a station called Top Points, where the engine would be unhitched. It would ‘run around’ to the front of the train, couple up again, then set the points to proceed further down the slope, but in the opposite direction, to Bottom Points Station. Here, the engine would ‘run around’ again, before proceeding on its way to Lithgow.

By 1907, however, traffic on the railway had increased so much that the laborious procedure on the two zigzags was causing unacceptable delays, so tunnels through the mountains were proposed to replace it. The ‘Ten Tunnels’, as they’re known, were completed in 1910; Clarence was by-passed and the Zig Zag Railway fell into disuse. The trackbed was used as a walking trail for the next 65 years.

It wasn’t until 1975 that a group of enthusiasts thought that such a fine feat of engineering ought to be preserved, and used for the purpose for which it was intended. So, it was decided to rebuild the railway, using largely volunteer labour. But, probably for reasons of economy, they laid the track to the 3’6″ (‘Country Railway’) gauge, rather than the original ‘Standard’ 4’8½”. Since this gauge was rarely, if ever, used in New South Wales, it meant that locomotives and carriages had to come from Queensland and South Australia, where it was more common.

Even now, the railway is run by the ZigZag Railway Co-operative. This, with the exception of a very few salaried employees, is a consortium of volunteer enthusiasts dedicated to the preservation of this historic formation, and the skills associated with the operation of steam trains and other veteran carriages and wagons on it.

Diesel Railcar at Clarence

On week-days, or on days of serious fire risk, they usually use a diesel railcar for the trip. It’s an old train; a vintage, metallic-finished diesel, but, on a Wednesday, or a week-end or holiday, there’s usually a steam engine running.

The coaches came from the Queensland Railway, although there are older coaches from the South Australian Railway in a siding. One of the engines is a beautifully preserved, ex-Queensland Railways unit built by Walker’s Limited, of Maryborough, Qld., in 1956.

'City of Lithgow' at Top Points Station

The round trip takes about 45 minutes, and if it’s a steam train, the engine will ‘run around’ at the Top Points and Bottom Points stations; passengers are welcome to leave the train at these times for photography, or just to stretch their legs. If you’re lucky, and can come when two trains are running, you can photograph the other train, too … preferably, as it toils up the hill. A diesel, however, doesn’t have to ‘run around’ when it changes direction; the driver merely takes up his position at the other end of the train.

At the Bottom Points Station, it’s only a short walk to the platform of the Sydney-Lithgow railway. If you’re going back to Sydney, the line will pass through the tunnels which replaced the ZigZag Railway.

If you’re going the other way, the line goes beyond Lithgow … and will, eventually, on its way to distant Perth, reach the Nullarbor Plain, and the longest stretch of straight railway track in the world. Truly, a complete contrast to the zigzags!

Vintage Carriage

At the start of the sixteenth century, India was invaded by a man named Babur who overthrew the Sultan of the day and proclaimed himself to be the ‘Emperor of India’. He eventually did manage to invade and bring a vast territory of India under his rule and thus began the great tryst of Mughals with India.

But even among the Mughals there was one emperor whose approach to governance, broad mindedness, acceptance of different religions and his intelligence not just made him a beloved king among his people but a visionary who is still respected for his great forsights. He was Mughal Emperor Mohd. Jalaluddin Akbar.

Akbar brought many changes in his lifetime, like strengthening Hindu and Muslim ties, introducing a modern system of an army owing allegiance to the state, creating a new religion that was an amalgamation of many, and also creating the first planned city of the Mughals known as Fatehpur Sikri, now also a World Heritage Site.

Sikri by Jorge Bassy- 2KPhoto.com via Flickr

Sikri

It is said that there was a Sufi saint named Salim Chisti who lived at a place called Sikri in the Vindhya mountain ranges about 26 miles from Agra. Akbar made a pilgrimage to this saint and was blessed with a son Salim (later Emperor Jahangir) and so as a token of his reverence to the saint he dreamt of building a city at Sikri that he named Fatehabad.

The new capital thus began taking shape with a unique blend of Hindu and Muslim architecture. In 1585 the construction was complete giving shape to an Emperor’s dream and one of the most enchanting works of architecture done in India.

What to see

For those visiting Agra to have a look at another Mughal masterpiece the Taj Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri will be a sharp contrast to the white marble monument as the later is predominantly made of red sand stone. Although time and weather have had there chance to ruin the splendor of the place, what remains is still remarkable and that is sensed even as you just see a glimpse of the city from a distance.

With plenty of time, a local guide and a thirst to relive the golden days of Indian history, tread on to witness one outstanding monument after another some of which are as follows,

Buland Darwaza

 Literally translated as the Mighty Door, this gate erected in 1602 AD to commemorate Akbar’s victory over Deccan is regarded as one of the biggest and grandest gateways of the world. The 13 meter flights of steps to the gate only add to its grandeur.

Jami Masjid

One of the largest mosque in India, it has a central courtyard, a hall and also tomb of royal ladies.

jami masjid by amanderson2 via Flickr

Dargah of Sheikh Salim Chisti

It is the place of worship where the emperor himself went in need of a son. Saint Salim Chisti’s dargah is still frequented by many looking for a blessing or answers to their problems. The beautiful lattice work done on the dargah is eye-catching.

Dargah by paul-simpson.org via Flickr

Anup Talao

A square water body that has pathways leading to the central platform. It is believed to be used for artistic performances as well as casual game or chat session for the Emperors and his Queens.

Turkish Sultana’s house

At the corner of the pool is this pavilion with beautiful carving adorning the ceiling.

Daulat Khan-i-Khas

It is the private chambers of the emperor himself. The structure is two storied with library and common room in the ground floor and royal bed chamber in the upper floor. This chamber has been connected well with all the queens’ chambers through corridors.

Palace of Jodha Bai

Known to be Akbar’s favorite queen, the palace of Queen Jodha Bai is the largest monument as well as the most lavish.  It has a 9 meter guarded gate to the east and also secure high walls.

Sunehra Makan

The golden house as it is called was palace of Queen Mariam-Uz-Zamani. The palace I called so because of the heavily ordained golden murals all across the palace. It also has inscription of verses written by Akbar’s brother Faizi.

Panch Mahal

It is one of the most beautifully crafted monument of Fatehpur Sikri. A five storied structure with each upper floor smaller than the one below giving a tower like appearance. The single dome kiosk at the top gives a magnificent view of the city.

Panch Mahal by paul-simpson.org via Flickr

When in Agra it is a must to reserve half a day visiting this intelligently planned city of an emperor. It was only for 13 years that the royalties lived in this city, before moving back to Agra because of water scarcity. But what remains here to this day is helping breathe life into past people and history even today.

Gloucester Docks and Oliver Cromwell

It’s a pity the Oliver Cromwell will sail no more, for she’s one of the few paddle-wheelers on British waters. She wasn’t originally built as a paddle-boat, but converted from a Dutch barge in 1990, for multi-day river cruises up the Severn from Gloucester.

Now, England isn’t exactly the first country that comes to mind when taking about river cruising The Severn is only about 220 miles long, and only navigable by larger vessels as far as Stourport, in Worcestershire. It can’t really be claimed as the longest river in England, as much of it is in Wales. But, it can safely be claimed as the longest river in Britain.

Sadly, some years ago, it was found that the cost of the inspections required to renew the Oliver Cromwell’s passenger licenses made the cruising business unprofitable so she remains moored at Alexandra Quay in Gloucester Docks as a floating hotel and restaurant.

Her owners, English Holiday Cruises, replaced her in 2000 with the Edward Elgar, an 80-tonne vessel with a length of 88 feet, which was purpose-built for cruising on the Severn. She can accommodate 22 passengers, and is the largest inland cruise boat which can provide overnight accommodation in the United Kingdom.

Edward Elgar

I recently took a short cruise on her along the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal. Since the Severn Estuary is tidal, and therefore not always available to larger shipping, it was by-passed by the canal. Ships would sail into it through the Sharpness Lock, to be man-hauled up to Gloucester.

They did, eventually, use draught horses for this task, but only after considerable opposition from the haulage gangs who had to seek work elsewhere.

Since the Gloucester and Sharpness was a ship canal, it’s much wider than the usual English narrow-boat canal, and therefore presents no obstacle to the 18-foot-wide Edward Elgar. Neither are there any locks, except at either end of the canal. There are swing bridges, but these are operated by professional bridge-keepers. Indeed, each bridge has a notice threatening dire penalties for unauthorised people attempting to operate it.

Ruddy Duck at Slimbridge

Close to the canal is the world-famous Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust’s reserve at Slimbridge, founded by the well-known naturalist Sir Peter Scott, the son of the polar explorer Robert Falcon Scott. Here, a vast variety of waterbirds can be seen. Some of them are permanent residents of the reserve; others are migrants, free to come and go as they please.

But, however far they travel, they usually come back to the Severn Estuary and Slimbridge, for they realise that, to preserve the birds, they must also preserve the wetland habitat in which they thrive.

We spent the evening moored at Purton, a short distance from the canal’s terminus at Sharpness. The Severn runs really close to the canal at this point, and erosion of the river bank threatened the integrity of the canal. So, as a preventative measure, the authorities built a sea-wall … but not from traditional building materials. They beached several redundant ships and barges which, gradually, got encroached upon by the bank itself. But, the ships aren’t forgotten; they’re still recognisable as boats, and a plaque records the name of each of them. Several individuals and businesses in the area sponsor some of them, too.

Early in the morning, I got off the boat to photograph it at its moorings. But, I forgot to take my key, and no-one else was awake yet, to let me back on board. So, to fill in the time, I took a short walk around the hulks. I’m glad I did, for nothing encapsulates the history of the canal more than the boats which sailed on it.

Aboard the Edward Elgar

Disclosure: I cruised on the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal as the guest of English Holiday Cruises (www.englishholidaycruises.co.uk). However, any opinions expressed are mine.

The Roman Baths, Bath

I had to pick my time carefully to visit the city of Bath. I wanted to go before the bulk of the tourists came, but after the rush of Christmas crowds around the many shops. But, that’s the way it’s always been, for visitors have been coming to Bath since before the Romans came, over 2000 years ago.

Bath is the only place in Britain with natural hot springs. They aren’t of volcanic origin; they are heated by water passing over the limestone of the nearby Mendip Hills. Ask any American soldier … he uses the same principle in the heat packs used to warm up his field rations.

The Roman Baths

The waters flow at 13 litres a second, at a constant temperature of 46ºC (115ºF) and contain 43 different minerals. So, in addition to a refreshing soak, they’re also medicinal, whether bathed in or drunk.

In the Pump Room, I tasted some of the water … and wished I hadn’t. It was slightly warm, and tasted as if someone had boiled up a handful of old pennies in it. Of course, I only tried it out of curiosity, rather than need. I wasn’t suffering from any illness or disorder, so can’t say whether it’s curative or not!

What I’d come to see was the building that draws most visitors to Bath. The Roman Baths weren’t just for getting clean. They were a place for discussing business, gossiping or just hanging out and meeting friends. The baths usually consisted of a tepidarium, or warm room, a caldarium or hot room, followed by a plunge in a cold pool. Some baths had a laconium, providing a dry heat, like a Scandinavian sauna.

Normally, fires tended by slaves provided heat … but here was naturally-heated water, with the bonus of a plunge in the curative waters.

While the 18^th Century Georgians dug the foundations for what we see today, they uncovered several Roman artefacts. From these, a good idea was obtained of what the baths looked like. They were built next to a temple dedicated to their goddess, Minerva, as well as to the British goddess Sulis, to whom the springs were held sacred. An illustration of the old British proverb that ‘cleanliness is next to godliness’!

The Georgian walkway.

Sadly, the Romans didn’t leave their tradition of cleanliness. A Roman Emperor once said that he took a daily bath because he didn’t have time to take more. A thousand years later, Queen Elizabeth I, who ruled England from 1558 to 1603, is said to have taken a bath once a month … whether she needed it or not!

Some Britons didn’t take a bath at all. The springs remained open, though, for those who wished to drink the waters.

Until the mid-20^th Century, most houses didn’t even have a bathroom. The usual method of bathing was to fill a portable iron tub with hot water in front of the fire. This happened once a week, usually, although coal miners could bathe at the end of every shift, receiving an allowance of coal to heat water for this purpose.

Although I never lived in a house without a bathroom, my grandparents did. Showers weren’t usual till the 1980s. Fortunately, I have a bath and a shower … and my philosophy is ‘a bath for relaxing; a shower if you just want to get clean in a hurry’

But, the tradition of the communal bath hasn’t quite caught on here yet. But, with the introduction of the jacuzzi and sauna in some places, maybe it will?

Maybe we’ll even go back to bathing as the Romans did?

Temple Carvings, Abydos.

The afternoon Egyptian sun is hot. A few people splash languidly in the swimming-pool on the upper deck as the boat glides placidly up the Nile. One or two passengers lie sunbathing, but the majority sit reading, or talking quietly under the shade of the canvas awning.

At four o’clock precisely, a white-jacketed steward sounds a discreet chime on a gong, and everyone starts stirring. It’s been nearly fifty years since the British left Egypt, but they left a legacy of their occupation … the strict observance of the ritual of Afternoon Tea.

It sounds relaxed and lazy, and so it should be with the shade temperature in the ‘Hundreds’. Any contemplated activity should be done in the early morning or the evening. That’s the way the operators of Nile cruises plan it.

The appointment of the boats varies according to the price paid, but the layout is fairly standard. The usual pattern is a wide, multi-decked, shallow-draught craft slightly reminiscent of a Mississippi river-boat.

Our cruise started from Luxor. First, we were driven down-river to the Temple of Hathor at Dendara and the Osiris temple, at Abydos. These were the oldest temples to be visited, so it was thought logical to start from there. Our boat sailed from Luxor to meet us, and returned us there to see its sights on our second day.

Dawn at Luxor

Back in Luxor, we visited the Luxor and Karnak temples, then drove across the river to see the Valley of the Kings and the Hatchepsut temple. This isn’t the hassle it used to be. There’s a new bridge, the West Bank can now be reached by coach rather than a crowded ferry.

On the third day, we left Luxor feeling that we’d learnt more about temples than we really wished. But, there’ll be no more temples until the boat has passed the Esna Barrage. There’s only one lock … another was under construction … so boats usually have to wait at Esna for some time. It’s a pity that Esna is a rather shabby remnant of what appears once to have been a rather grand esplanade. There’s a temple, but it’s unremarkable, and few of the tour companies bother with it.

Karnak Temple

After Esna, the next call was the Temple of Horus at Edfu, the best-preserved temple found so far. A photo-call by the statue of the hawk-god Horus (which, in truth, looks more like a gigantic canary!) by the entrance is almost obligatory for visitors. The guides usually arrange a transfer from the boat by horse-drawn calèche … an experience to be tried at least once!

At the next stop, Kom Ombo, the boat moored almost in the shadow of the temple, which can be reached by a short walk. This one’s different. It’s really two temples combined; one dedicated to Horus, and the other to Sobek, the crocodile god.

Finally, the boat arrived in Aswan. It could go no further, for the massive Aswan dams bar the way. We sailed across the river in a lateen-sailed felucca, then hiked up the hill to the Aga Khan Mausoleum, on the West Bank.

In Aswan itself, there was the market. Egyptian markets are a treat for eyes, ears and nose. Carpets, leather goods, clothing, spices … all are on offer, and the price is often negotiable! And, even if you don’t want to buy anything there’s the reminder that Egypt, in spite of all its remembrances of a bygone age, is still colourful, busy and alive.

Avenue of Sphinxes, Karnak.

In ancient times, the civilised world ended at Aswan. Then, however, the civilised world consisted of a long, narrow strip of territory on the banks of the Nile. In places, a keen hiker could have walked across the civilised world in a day!

The barrier was a set of rapids, the first of many encountered in the river as you proceed southwards. With appealing simplicity and unarguable logic, it was called the First Cataract.

You can’t see it today. It’s submerged beneath Lake Aswan, created when the Old Dam was completed in 1902, and Lake Nasser, held back by the more modern High Dam.

Up until 1994, those dams presented as formidable a barrier to the southbound passage of the Nile cruise-boats as the cataracts did to the boatmen of old. The tour operators solved the problem in exactly the same way as the old Egyptian navigators did; they built more boats above the obstacle. But, that’s another cruise!

One of Aswan’s most popular sights is the Temple of Isis. Now high and dry in its new location on Aghilikia Island, it’s easily visited by boat. In one of the best Sound and Light shows in Egypt, Isis herself tells of the original construction of her temple, and of the coming of dams and lakes, and the temple’s relocation and rebuilding.

In Aswan, I visited the Old Cataract Hotel, where they’ve attempted to preserve the art-deco ambience of the golden age of travelling. They showed me the desk upon which Agatha Christie wrote Death on the Nile … I’ll bet they say that about all their desks. And, at the appointed hour, they served afternoon tea!

The name Goa in India instantly conjures images of sun kissed beaches and an eternal land of good times. But what this Old Portuguese settlement also offers is some historic structures that give the state its true Goan character.

One of these structures is the most ornate church of Old Goa, also a World Heritage Site called the Basilica de Bon Jesu (Infant Jesus) which houses the sacred relics of Saint Francis Xavier.

Basilica de Bon Jesu. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

The Story of the Saint

It is said that the catholic saint popularly known as Sam Francesco or Goencho Sahib visited Goa on his way to Malacca in the 16th century. Serving at the Holy Spirit Hospital in Goa for six months, he would go through the streets ringing a little bell and inviting the children to hear the word of God. When he had gathered a considerable number, he would take them to a church to explain Catechism to them.

From here he traveled to China, but died in the desert island of Sancian on December 1552. His body was daubed in quicklime and buried in the sea. When it was exhumed after three months, people were stunned to find no signs of decomposition. The body was then taken to Malacca and reburied. Here again when his body was exhumed after five months, it was found to be in perfect condition.

The casket of St. Francis Xavier. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

Interpreting it as a divine signal, the saint was brought to Goa almost 150 years after his death as a gift from Medici, Cosimo III, the Grand Duke of Tuscany. It now lies in an airtight glass coffin, placed inside a silver casket fashioned by a 17th century Florentine jeweler.

Over the years, the body has been shriveling bit by bit and if you see it today, it might be difficult to recognize it as a human figure. But the miraculous relic, does add to the attraction of the beautiful Catholic Church.

Relics of the Saint. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

The Basilica

This is India’s first minor basilica that is known for its beautifully gilded alters and frescos. It is one of the richest churches in Goa and the finest example of baroque architecture in India.

A World Heritage Site. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

With marble flooring, inlaid precious stones and paintings depicting the life of St. Francis Xavier covering the walls of the church, it is as much an attraction for non-Christians as it is for Christians in India.

Inside the Basilica. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

The Festival

The Feast of St. Francis Xavier is held on the 3rd of December at Velha in Old Goa, which witnesses thousands of pilgrims and a special mass held here. The embalmed body of the saint is also exposed to public every 10 years when pilgrims come all over the world pay their tributes to the departed saint.

Best time to visit

Christmas break is definitely a good time to visit Goa especially if you are visiting to see the churches. Some people believe, Goa looks heavenly even when it is flooded with non stop rains from end of May to July and indeed, you do not need to check the time of the year to visit this spectacular destination.

Be sure to read more on the fun and frolics of Goa in my future posts.

It rains rather a lot in Britain. Even the Tourist Board aren’t unwise enough to pretend it doesn’t. Most of our seaside resorts have, therefore, been spoilt by over-development to ‘cater for’ visitors when it’s too cold or wet for the beach.

Whitby’s different. Certainly, there are amusement arcades, fortune-tellers and gift-shops in plenty. But, since Whitby is still a working fishing port, it hasn’t been taken over completely.

Anyway, I was in Whitby researching for an article about explorer Captain James Cook. So, the weather didn’t really matter. I’d brought some no-messing mountaineering waterproofs with me, and faced the rain and the howling wind, and gained some amusement from the few tourists struggling with their cheap plastic ponchos.

But, I hoped it would brighten later, because I also wanted some pictures of Whitby Abbey for a calendar project. I didn’t get them, but walked in the footsteps of Whitby’s fictional villain, as well as its real hero!

James Cook looks out from the West Cliff

Whitby Harbour is a narrow river-mouth. On each side, a red cliff towers, and to its slopes, the old town clings. The West Cliff belongs to Captain Cook. His statue stands looking out to sea, atop the cliff. As a young man, he lodged with, and worked for a merchant named John Walker, in Grape Lane. Walker’s house still stands, and is now a museum, devoted to the achievements of his protégé.

It was probably from the West Cliff that, on 31st October, 1885, Irish novelist Bram Stoker witnessed the cargo ship ‘Dimitry’ out of Narva, run aground on Tate Hill Sands. When, some years later, he wrote Dracula, he had the Count arrive in the ‘Demeter’, from Varna, steered by the dead hand of her Captain.

The East Cliff is ‘Dracula Country’, but it doesn’t belong exclusively to him. On top of the cliff stand the ruins of 7th Century Whitby Abbey, where a simple herd-boy once sang to, and captivated the Abbess Hilda. Hilda went on to become a Saint; the Song of Caedmon is said to be the pioneer of English religious music.

‘Caedmon’s Trod’ is the name given to one of the two sets of steps leading up to the Abbey from the old town. Curiously, though, the commemorative Cross of Caedmon stands at the top of the other steps, called the Abbey Steps, or, more usually, simply the 199 steps. Don’t ask; I didn’t count them!

Both sets are good for pictures looking across the red-tiled roofs of old Whitby. The sun shows the tiles to their best advantage … but, wind and rain ensures that the steps aren’t too crowded! You pays your money … or, you gets up early, or you comes in winter!

The Abbey steps lead, as you might expect, to the Abbey. But, in front of the Abbey stands St. Mary’s Church, and its churchyard. Here, Stoker had Mina and Lucy watching the approach of the ‘Demeter’ … and here, the ill-fated Lucy Westenra met the Count while out sleepwalking … with the inevitable result!

The graveyard on East Cliff ... haunt of Count Dracula!

Everyone who’s ever been to Whitby remembers ‘a great fish and chip shop by the harbour’. Most people I spoke to said the best of all was ‘Trenchers’… which, unfortunately, was destroyed by fire!

But, there are many, many more! A lady in the Tourist Information Centre told me that it isn’t actually illegal to serve bad fish and chips in Whitby, but the competition is so fierce that anyone who does so, or is miserly with the portions, is unlikely to last very long.

From the many, I chose the ‘Endeavour and Resolution’ because of the ‘Captain Cook’ work I’d come to do. I wonder if there’s a fish and chip shop named after the Count, though? There ought to be; it would be the ideal place to pop into for a quick bite!

I recently moved to Austin, Texas, which is definitely a change of pace from Montreal! Despite the many differences, however, Montreal and Austin actually have a lot in common. You’re probably saying, “What? As if!”, so allow me to explain myself.

Montreal and Austin are both known for their indie music scenes. Montreal has Pop Montreal, while Austin hosts SXSW (South by Southwest), but the basic premise of each of these yearly festivals is the same: lots of up-and-coming artists vying for attention, plenty of indie rock performances, and lots and lots of rockstars taking the streets by storm. As this list of rules from local pizzeria The Onion indicates, sometimes Austin locals aren’t particularly fond of SXSW, but in general, the whole music-friendly-city thing definitely applies.

"The Onion rules" by Flickr user adactio

Just like in Montreal, Austin’s got a super low cost of living, coupled with a large student population (which may or may not actually drive the low cost of living). Rent is affordable, food is plentiful and cheap, and there’s tons of free stuff to do throughout the year (SXSW not, sadly, being one of them).

Unlike in Montreal, however, the weather in Austin is awesome! When I first arrived at the beginning of November, temperatures were still in the 80s (that’s about 26 Celsius, for my Canadian friends), and when I first moved into my apartment I was more tempted to use the central air-conditioning than the heater. Pretty much every apartment complex in the city boasts a pool, and while it wasn’t quite warm enough to dive in, I was definitely tempted to lounge poolside and soak up some rays while composing this blog!

According to the Insiders Guide to Austin (which I bought just prior to my move), the mean temperature here is 68 degrees, with the mean low around 58 and the mean high around 79. Of course, having said all of that, the radio was announcing the possibility for up to 5 inches of snow today, so I’m not entirely convinved that it doesn’t snow here, just yet. (Unfortunately for me, I gave away all my sweaters before I moved, certain I’d never need them again!)

A message you'd never see in Montreal ("Snowing in Austin" photo by Flickr user aaronisnotcool)

Another parallel to Montreal is Austin’s reputation as a highly literary city. Known for its most famous literary influence, the criminal-turned-short story writer O. Henry is Austin’s main claim to fame. It was here that the author began writing such tales as “The Gift of the Magi,” while working in a land development office. The town’s greatest literary hero was ultimately accused of embezzlement from his employers and served three years of a five-year prison sentence for his crime. In addition to O. Henry, Austin was also home to James A. Michener, who donated a significant amount of money to the University of Texas at Austin upon his death in 1997, which now founds the Michener Center’s highly selective MFA in Creative Writing. With an overall ranking of 4 in this year’s Poets & Writers Magazine guide to MA programs, the Michener Center is one of the best writing programs in North America.

In addition to its thriving artistic community, Austin is also home to an Internet tech hub that rivals that of San Francisco. Home to Dell Computers, Austin360, and Door64 (among others), this town’s full of geeks, nerds and people who demand free wifi wherever they go. If that sounds a bit like Montreal’s Ile Sans Fil initiative—which has been bringing free wifi access to Montrealers via one of their favorite pasttimes, sitting in cafés—that’s just another similarity between the two cities. Are Austin and Montreal long-lost sisters or what, man?

In short, Austin is a great city for anyone involved in the arts, despite its location in a state that is predominantly known for its guns ‘n’ ammo, shoot first/ask questions later approach to, well, everything. Austin is the capital of Texas, and although this sometimes makes for an uptight, governmental side (see: psychotic Austin drivers), it also has a very friendly, laid-back attitude that could make a groovy San Franciscan feel right at home.

Next week: Why “Keep Austin Weird” is the city’s unofficial motto!

About 18 Km from Ahmedabad in Gujarat, India there is a small village called Adalaj. Normally, you would not even think twice about including this rural place in your itinerary. But, what makes this remote setting special and truly worth a visit is its step-well, an ancient water source that is both beautiful and useful in knowing how art can reside even on the walls of a well!

When we first came to hear of the Adalaj vav, as it is locally known, we thought of paying it a visit just because of the novelty of the whole affair. A well where steps lead you to the water was not a common sight after all. But what we were definitely not prepared for was setting our eyes to less of a well and more of an enclosed chamber of marvelous hand chiseled wall carvings.

The step-well is five storeys high, rather five-storey under the ground. There are three entrances leading to the stepped corridors which in turn have an octagonal opening on the top. As you step down each storey you are confronted with some of the most beautifully crafted flower motifs, elephants, peacocks and fishes adorning the walls reminding one of the carved temples of ancient India which tourists are more used to seeing.

Engraved beauty. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

But even before you begin appreciating the intricate carvings on the walls, what catches your attention first are the erect pillars, 16 in all standing in perfect symmetry and supporting the whole magnificent structure. Even these flaunt some exquisite designs of flowers, and other frenzied motifs.

The Pillars. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

View up from the well. Courtesy twobythree from Flickr

Although the actual well has been closed with a wire mesh nowadays to avoid mishaps, there was a time when this particular place was not only frequented by people in need of water, but also by caravans and travelers looking for a night’s shelter or as a halting point to rest their feet.

Even today, we felt, the place felt cool and inviting, away from the scorching heat of an Indian summer and filled with artistry that someone could spend hours observing and admiring.

Gujarat as a state, I later found, is filled with these amazing heritage sites. There are a total of 120 step-wells in the state with Rani Vav being the oldest. With a vision to conserve the scarce water and not depend totally on the unpredictable monsoon, the medieval architect with patronage from the then rulers built these remarkable structures that today also preserve history within their walls.

What is also a very interesting story about the Adalaj step-well is about the lady, who built the well. It is said around here, that in the 14^th century the place was ruled by a Vaghela chief called Veer Singh and his wife was queen Rudabai. Once in the battle for supremacy between the chief and another ruler named Sultan Beghara, the sultan killed the chief and asked the queen to marry him. Queen Rudabai thought of a way out of this lurid proposal by asking the sultan for some time till the construction of Adalaj step-well was finished. He agreed not knowing that the queen had other plans. When even after waiting for years the Sultan could not get the hand of the queen, he again proposed and it was then that the queen too proud to marry a person who had killed her husband, submerged herself into the water of the well.   

We had begun our journey to just see a step-well but we ended knowing much more. The tale of a monument built for a practical purpose that also hides within its walls tales of diligent craftsmen who breathed life to plain stones, and the tale of a queen who laid her life to save her honor.

Do make sure your itinerary of Gujarat includes this heritage treasure buried in the grounds of a small village, Adalaj.

Avebury

Most people have heard of the famous stone circle at Stonehenge, in Wiltshire, England. Fewer have heard of the much bigger circle, or rather, circles, thirty miles north, at Avebury.

Avebury was built about 500 years before Stonehenge was. Work started on it around 2900 BCE, while Stonehenge was not started till about 2400 BCE.

When historian John Aubrey came upon the circle at Avebury in the 17^th Century, he declared it far superior to Stonehenge, and said it was like ‘comparing a cathedral to a parish church’.

While Aubrey did do some valuable work, he had an unfortunate habit of presenting his sometimes unsubstantiated theories as facts; a habit which confused people for generations. Modern scientists, though, make it clear that their theories are just that.

‘I think ‘may’, ‘possibly’ and ‘probably’ are the words we use most often of all’ I was once told.

Shannon at Avebury

There are no triliths … horizontal stones, balanced on two upright ones … at Avebury. These are unique to Stonehenge. Nor are there stones brought from as far away as Wales, as there are at Stonehenge. All the stones are the rough sandstone called sarsen, the nearest deposit of which is about ten miles away, on Lockeridge Down.

To transport the huge stones that distance must have required an organised society, with an influential leadership.

Avebury is much larger than Stonehenge, too. Indeed, there is a thriving village within the outer circle, and the Salisbury to Swindon bus runs right through it.

Like Stonehenge there is an Avenue; that is, two lines of standing stones marking the edges of the approach to the circle. The one at Stonehenge consists of just two shallow furrows, which an untrained person would not recognise unless it was pointed out.

Much of what we see today, we owe to Alexander Keiller. This was a man of many interests, the greatest of which was archaeology. This is the science of finding out how people lived in the past by looking for and examining the remains of their buildings or property. He was able to finance this expensive pursuit with the considerable fortune his family had made from manufacturing marmalade!

When he came upon the circle in the 1920s and 1930s, it was in very poor condition, with some of the stones fallen over, and some carried away for use elsewhere.

In the Middle Ages, many people thought that stone circles and henges, or circular ditches, were the work of the Devil, so, encouraged by the Church, people took some of the stones away, and buried them. Later, in the 18^th Century, William Stukeley recorded local people using fire and water to break up the stones for building and road making. But, he was able to make drawings, engravings and paintings, showing what he thought the circle may have looked like when it was built.

Some of the Great Stones

These were of great help to Keiller, when he located all of the missing stones he could find, transported them back to Avebury, and re-located them in their original positions. And, if a stone could not be found, a concrete obelisk was erected where it should have stood.

One thing that could not be taken away, though, was the massive henge surrounding the complex. It is always a source of wonder that this was dug out using only primitive tools … a modern civil engineer estimated that such an undertaking would take one man three years today, using a mechanical digger.

Nowadays, the ditch is covered in grass, but the original idea was just to have a circle of bare earth … which, in most of Wiltshire, is a brilliant white chalk soil. This must have been a dramatic sight!

So enthusiastic was Keiller that he actually bought the land on which Avebury stood, as well as Avebury Manor, part of which is now the Alexander Keiller Museum, where many artefacts he found on his digs are displayed; arrowheads, coins, pottery and skeletons of animals, and even humans!

Also on display are objects from almost all points on the time-line, for the village was here from the earliest times, and many people would have grazed their sheep and cattle in the fields containing the stones. They would, no doubt, have inadvertently dropped coins, knives and the like.

One skeleton, which Keiller discovered in 1938, was found to be carrying the instruments of a barber-surgeon from the Middle Ages. It is assumed he was killed when a stone fell on him, in an attempt to move it. That stone is now back in position, and known as the Barber Stone. But, although the instruments are on display, the skeleton is not. It was taken to London, and destroyed by a German bomb in 1941!

But, artefacts are not the only things to be seen in the museum. There are interactive displays and models, showing how Avebury might have looked in bygone days, and giving histories of people connected with it.

After the war, Keiller, ill, and with his money running out, sold the property to the National Trust, in whose ownership it remains, although the monument itself is now in the care of English Heritage.

The Avenue, Avebury

If you visit the site, you will be immediately aware of a modern major difference between Avebury and Stonehenge. At Avebury, you can wander around the stones as you will; at Stonehenge, unless you make a special arrangement, you must admire them from a distance. And, at Avebury, admission is free of charge, although you do have to pay to use the car park or enter the museum.

But, it is a price worth paying.

Bus Ride to Avebury