The Dead Sea

When we visited Jordan, we ate lunch in what was then one of the lowest restaurants on earth. But, it wasn’t low in the sense of being cheap, or because not very nice people eat there. Jordan’s Dead Sea Spa hotel is 400 metres below sea level, which is as low as you can get on the surface of the Earth.

However, since our visit, another hotel and restaurant has been built, even closer to the sea shore, which beats the Dead Sea Spa’s record.

The price of the lunch included use of the hotel’s private beach and facilities.

We were driving from Amman, the country’s capital to the ancient rock city of Petra, and had options of taking the main road, or that running along the banks of the Dead Sea. It was an easy choice, really!

The Dead Sea is an inland sea, surrounded by land on all sides. The River Jordan flows into it, as do several others. But, nothing flows out, because water can not flow uphill. It just evaporates away in the sun, leaving the water many times saltier than the oceans are. Most visitors like to bathe in the waters of the Dead Sea, because there is so much salt in it that it’s impossible to sink.

Floating in the Dead Sea

It makes it difficult to swim in, but easy to float. Many people like to be photographed floating in the sea, reading their favourite magazine. There are no fish, and very little can grow on its shores. That is why it is called the Dead Sea. We were warned we must be very careful not to swallow any water because it is poisonous. I got a little splash on my lips, and certainly would not want a mouthful!

It stung a little bit, too, where I nicked myself shaving that morning … but that nick healed in record time.Some doctors recommend bathing in the Dead Sea because the waters are said to be able to cure some skin complaints. We bought a packet of Dead Sea salt to take home and put in the bath

Salt Crystals

A lot of people like to take the ‘mud treatment’, and say that does feel good; whether it actually does you good, I am not qualified to say. Most of the beaches have a ‘mud man’ but he was not around. So, we applied the mud ourselves. You can not mistake it; it is the stuff that feels like wet talcum powder.

If you feel like a hot tub after swimming in the salt or mud, there are naturally heated hot springs and pools, and even a hot waterfall not far away. The showers at the hotel were closer, but not so much fun.

We were told that the lowest point on earth is getting lower. Jordan is a desert country, and needs a lot of water for the farmers’crops. They take the water they need from the rivers that flow into the Dead Sea. When we went on our way again, we saw a new dam being built on the Moujib River, which is one of the best known for its spectacular wadi; the narrow canyon cut through the rocks.

This means that the level of the sea is dropping. Even the Jordan River itself, with water taken from it by the Lebanese and Israelis before it even enters Jordan, is almost stagnant, and contributes little. Scientists say that, if something is not done soon … they suggested building a canal from the Red Sea … the Dead Sea will be completely dried up in about 50 years.

The followers of Sikh religion make a beeline to Amritsar, India all through the year, to a place which is considered the most sacrosanct abode of worship in their community. This place is Harmandir Sahib or the Golden Temple and one of the most ordained temples of the world.

The Golden Temple. Courtesy travelmeasia via Flickr

History of the golden temple

It is said that the fourth guru or spiritual guide of Sikhism, Guru Ram Das excavated a tank in 1577 which was called as Amritsar (Pool of nectar of immortality). Eventually people inhabited the surrounding area and a town started taking shape.

The fifth guru, Guru Arjan Dev planned to build a temple in the area as he felt a need for a central place of worship for the followers of Sikh religion. It is then that the foundation of the temple was laid by the Sufi Saint Mia Mir in December 1588 and by 1604 Harmandir Sahib was built in the middle of the lake.

At a time in India when Hinduism and Islam were the major religions followed by most people, the building of this temple played a significant role in strengthening the roots of Sikh religion and unifying the community.

It was Guru Arjan Dev’s plan to keep the temple doors open for all sections of the society devoid of any religious differences. That is why he ordered the temple to have four entry points instead of one. Also unlike a Hindu temple where the lord is placed in the highest pedestal, here the temple was built in a lower level and inside was kept Sri Guru Granth Sahib, the holiest literature of the community and considered the 11^th and eternal guru of the Sikhs.

Later on, the temple suffered attacks by men of Ahmed Shah Abdali and was substantially rebuilt in 1760s. But it was the great donations of wealth and material made by the revered king of Punjab Maharaja Ranjit Singh that gave the Golden temple its rich architecture and opulence. The golden plates which cover the exterior of the temple’s upper floor and domes, as well as its exquisite marblework was done under his patronage.

Architecture

Courtesy txd via Flickr

The golden temple is an exquisite example of synergistic blending of the Hindu and Muslim architectural style. It is built on a square platform in the centre of the pool, with heavily ordained doors each in the East, West, South and North directions. There is a causeway from the main entrance that leads to the temple. The other end of this bridge is connected to the pradakshina path or the circumambulatory path that allows devotees to move all around the temple.

The main structure is a three storied building on top of which is a low fluted dome having lotus petal motif at the base.

What to see

For a first time visitor, the Golden temple can easily become a quick lesson in the history of Sikh religion along with the spiritual experience. The premises has many shrines in memory of past Sikh gurus, heroes and martyrs and also a museum teaching the values of the religion and giving a glimpse of its past.

Walls in the premises are adorned with memorial plaques that commemorate past Sikh historical events, saints, martyrs and include commemorative inscriptions of all the Sikh soldiers who died fighting in the two World Wars.

There is no discrimination aganst any caste in these sacred grounds but it is ensured that a visitor does not drink alcohol, eat meat or smoke cigarettes or use other non prescription drugs while in the shrine.

Community Service. Courtesy travelmeasia via Flickr

What is a practice in any gurudwara or temple of the Sikhs in the world and quite a sight in the Golden Temple is the langar or the community meal that is organized everyday here. It is one of the most organized community services that even a first time visitor can be a part of. The meal is prepared by the devotees as well as served by them. And any person can come and have this meal in the divine grounds.

Best time to visit

Amritsar is in the state of Punjab, known for its lush green fields and jubilant people. Winter months are best to visit from October to March, although any time of the year, Golden Temple has its door open for all.

The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center in Austin always gets great reviews as a fun and educational place to spend an afternoon enjoying nature. With free admission for the month of January, it seemed like it’d be a good way to spend my day off, so I drove down to La Crosse Avenue to check it out. I was looking forward to seeing some pretty flowers, snapping some photos, and maybe even composing a few lines of poetry, à la Montrealer Angela Leuck’s A Poet in the Garden (Leuck posts poetry that she writes in the Montreal Botanical Garden throughout the warm months of the year, often bringing special “guest poets” along for the ride).

Unfortunately, I must say that my trip to the Wildflower Center was a disappointment, as there didn’t seem to be much of anything blooming. There were a few tiny flowers hidden here and there amongst the tall grasses that threatened to swallow the place whole, and the hardy yucca and cacti were doing their thing, but for the most part it was obviously winter at the garden.

I was bummed, as I was looking forward to some pleasant scenery and peaceful contemplation, but instead all I saw were hibernating trees and overheard the unmusical sounds of children screaming. (There was, however, a very nice windchime, which offset some of the screaming with its Zen musicality. That was the best part of the experience.)

While my trip was a disappointment, I wouldn’t entirely write this place off, as reports are that wildflower season in the spring (April-May) is simply spectacular at the Lady Bird Center. I checked for photos online when I returned home, and here’s just a handful of the examples that I came up with:

Awesome, right? And that doesn’t even include the vast tracts of land which are currently barren, but which are supposedly filled with flowers as far as the eye can see in the spring and summer months!

So, it looks like I picked the wrong time to hit up Lady Bird, but I’m planning to return in the spring to see the Texas high country in full bloom as promised. For now, I’ll leave you with this lovely photo as an image of what you and I can (and will!) eventually be able to do to the LBJ flowers once they finally bloom in the spring, and a promise of more (and better) plant-related updates to come.

The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center is open Tuesday through Saturday, from 9 AM to 5:30 PM, and noon to 5:30 PM on Sundays. They are closed Mondays. Admission is free throughout the month of January, and is otherwise $7 for adults, $6 for seniors 60+ and students 13+, and $3 for children ages 5-12.

The name Goa in India instantly conjures images of sun kissed beaches and an eternal land of good times. But what this Old Portuguese settlement also offers is some historic structures that give the state its true Goan character.

One of these structures is the most ornate church of Old Goa, also a World Heritage Site called the Basilica de Bon Jesu (Infant Jesus) which houses the sacred relics of Saint Francis Xavier.

Basilica de Bon Jesu. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

The Story of the Saint

It is said that the catholic saint popularly known as Sam Francesco or Goencho Sahib visited Goa on his way to Malacca in the 16th century. Serving at the Holy Spirit Hospital in Goa for six months, he would go through the streets ringing a little bell and inviting the children to hear the word of God. When he had gathered a considerable number, he would take them to a church to explain Catechism to them.

From here he traveled to China, but died in the desert island of Sancian on December 1552. His body was daubed in quicklime and buried in the sea. When it was exhumed after three months, people were stunned to find no signs of decomposition. The body was then taken to Malacca and reburied. Here again when his body was exhumed after five months, it was found to be in perfect condition.

The casket of St. Francis Xavier. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

Interpreting it as a divine signal, the saint was brought to Goa almost 150 years after his death as a gift from Medici, Cosimo III, the Grand Duke of Tuscany. It now lies in an airtight glass coffin, placed inside a silver casket fashioned by a 17th century Florentine jeweler.

Over the years, the body has been shriveling bit by bit and if you see it today, it might be difficult to recognize it as a human figure. But the miraculous relic, does add to the attraction of the beautiful Catholic Church.

Relics of the Saint. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

The Basilica

This is India’s first minor basilica that is known for its beautifully gilded alters and frescos. It is one of the richest churches in Goa and the finest example of baroque architecture in India.

A World Heritage Site. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

With marble flooring, inlaid precious stones and paintings depicting the life of St. Francis Xavier covering the walls of the church, it is as much an attraction for non-Christians as it is for Christians in India.

Inside the Basilica. Courtesy Arijit Gupta

The Festival

The Feast of St. Francis Xavier is held on the 3rd of December at Velha in Old Goa, which witnesses thousands of pilgrims and a special mass held here. The embalmed body of the saint is also exposed to public every 10 years when pilgrims come all over the world pay their tributes to the departed saint.

Best time to visit

Christmas break is definitely a good time to visit Goa especially if you are visiting to see the churches. Some people believe, Goa looks heavenly even when it is flooded with non stop rains from end of May to July and indeed, you do not need to check the time of the year to visit this spectacular destination.

Be sure to read more on the fun and frolics of Goa in my future posts.

A 'close encounter' at the Samburu Game Park

From Kenya’s capital, Nairobi, to the Samburu Game Lodge is about 150 miles as the crow flies. But, if you leave Nairobi in the middle of winter, you’ll arrive at Samburu in midsummer. However, that’s not because the roads are so bad, or the little Nissan safari buses which most tour operators use being anything other than quick and efficient.

The reason for the seasonal shift is that on this journey crosses the Equator, at a place called Nanyuki, where the buses always stop. Ostensibly, it’s just to let passengers stretch their legs and attend to essential comforts, but, as often happens where tourists frequent, there’s quite a bazaar atmosphere, where ‘quality African craftwork’ (it says here) can be bought.

Lorraine at the Equator

Usually, too there’s someone there with a container of water, a funnel and a few match-sticks. For a fee, he will demonstrate the phenomenon where, if you pour water into a funnel, or let it out of the bath, or something, it swirls out clockwise to the south of the Equator, and anti-clockwise to the north. Although my ‘day job’ at the time was in aviation, nobody loves a smart-ass, so I resisted the temptation to lecture about Buys Ballot’s Law and the Coriolis Effect!

Having had our pit-stop and coffee, we left Nanyuki behind, and headed down into the Great Rift Valley and Samburu.

The Samburu Reserve takes its name from the Samburu people who live in the area. The Samburu are often to be seen in their traditional garb of wrap-around blankets and metal and bead bracelets and necklaces; sometimes the men wear red clay on their faces and in their hair. Most tours to the area include a visit to a Samburu manyatta (a fenced compound which acts as a sort of outdoor village hall/meeting place/club-house) to see a display of Samburu dance.

Grevy's Zebra

Samburu tribesmen dancing for us

The reserve consists of several adjoining game parks on either side of the Ewaso Nyiro River. One of these is the Buffalo Springs Nature Reserve. There are springs, to be sure, but Jacob, our guide/driver said that buffalo never frequented them. But, what were those bovine-looking animals drinking from the springs?

We had discovered Jacob’s system. ‘Elephants?’ he would say ‘There are no elephants around here.’ This usually made sure that we would see elephants … and soon! ‘We will see no lions today!’ usually meant more lions than you could shake a stick at … not that anyone shook any sticks at them; we stayed safely in the bus, which has a raised roof, to act as sun-shade and observation platform.

The guides aren’t allowed to use radios to talk to each other, and animals are not tagged in any way. But, if one guide sees something interesting, the others will arrive very shortly! One day, Jacob spotted a leopard in a tree, with the body of a recently-killed gazelle. Within 15 minutes, nineteen safari-buses had arrived on the scene!

Elephants at Samburu

We saw elephants, zebras, giraffes, ostriches, lions, cheetahs and many kinds of antelope and gazelle … including the tiny ‘dik-dik’ and the amusing gerenuk or ‘giraffe-gazelle’. And, of course, there were many buffalo! And, as a bonus, we had a rare glimpse of the usually haze-shielded and cloud covered Mount Kenya in the distance.

Seeing animals at their best usually calls for a pre-dawn start, with another drive around sunset. At these times, the animals are at their most active. So, when breakfast beckons, we returned to the Samburu Lodge. The cabins at the lodge are thatched, round huts of a design based on the African hut called a rondavel. Like all good game lodges, there are two watering holes … one within the compound, that is, the swimming pool, and one outside. A bank about three feet high surrounds the compound, this, we were assured, ensures that visitors don’t have too close an encounter with the game … especially the crocodile, which is usually seen basking by the water-hole.

One thing the bank won’t keep out is the baboons. The barman said that it has been known for them to snatch food from the plates of diners in the restaurant. Then, we were summoned to dinner … not by a gong, but a relentless thunder of African drums.

‘Oh, yes! Very Hollywood!

’ I said. But, the barman explained that the drums served an extra purpose. They scared the baboons away, and they wouldn’t be back for several hours!

Samburu Lodge

The Zambezi river, Africa’s fourth longest and parent to Victoria Falls, stretches 2′200 miles.  Starting at the Central African Plateau, the Zambezi passes through or serves as a border for six countries: Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Mozambique, Namibia and Angola.  Finally, it drains into the Indian Ocean after landing in the Mozambique Channel.  It hosts two major hydroelectric power stations, the Kariba Dam providing power to Zimbabwe and Zambia and the Cahora Bassa Dam serving Mozambique and South Africa.  This river is impressive, rough and rapid in some places and calmly flowing in others.  It supports an abundance of wildlife and feeds endless plants as it ’s’ shapes it’s way from the Congo through to Mozambique.  Many an adventurous and sporty tourist have flocked to the Zambezi for whitewater rafting or Kayaking.  There are three navigable sections to the Zambezi river, the upper, middle and lower sections.

Victoria Falls

As spectacular as this mighty river is, we are only going to be looking closely at it’s largest water fall, Victoria Falls, in this blog.  So named by David Livingstone (the Scottish explorer) in honour of Queen Elizabeth of England.  The indigenous name for the falls is Mosi-oa-Tunya (The Smoke That Thunders) and this is the official name used to refer to it in Zambia.  Zimbabweans just calls it ‘Victoria Falls.’  Victoria Falls marks the end of the upper Zambezi and the start of the middle Zambezi.  It also forms part of the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Devil's Cataract

You will not be dissappointed by the wonder of such a powerful and magnificent show of natural beauty and strength.  It was no wonder that David Livingstone, upon seeing these falls, remarked that “angels in their flight” must have “gazed” upon this awesome site.  David Livingstone is credited as being the first European to view Victoria Falls and as previously mentioned, he named them so.  Between 1852 and 1856, David Livingstone navigated the whole of the Zambezi river from it’s source right through to it’s mouth in the Indian Ocean.  I’ve always wondered what inspires such men to know all there is to know about whatever takes their fancy.  I imagine that it was no small task to say the least. 

Victoria Falls Bridge

The falls were not of much interest to Europeans until after 1905 when a railway crossing was built to facilitate Cecil Rhodes’ mining efforts and desire to conquer Africa in as many commercial ways as possible.  Cecil Rhodes’ drive to create a railroad running from Cairo to the Cape, brought about the plans for the first crossing of Victoria falls.  He made sure that the bridge was positioned so that trains would be sprayed by the falls as they passed.

Since the building of the bridge, tourism has steadily increased over the years until, by the turn of the millennium, more than quarter of a million people visited the falls annually.  Now, due to the affordable and easy access by road, there are more Zambian and Zimbabwean tourists than international ones.  This is unlike the game parks.

Things to See and Do

I'm sorry - I would pass out!

The falls themselves are enormous with lots of varying views of different aspects.  You can take micro-light or fixed winged flights over the falls if you’re not scared of heights.  I’m sorry, but I am a chicken, I couldn’t do it.  If I get to close to any deep drop I have to fight with the sheer fear of wanting to jump or fall coupled with a chilling shiver through my spine.  I’m not suicidal, it’s just a fear that many people have including me.  Okay, just me. 

On the opposite side to the falls you can walk through the rain forest and at times you’ll be able to see clearly enough to catch a glimpse of the falls.  You’ll soon reach Knife Edge Bridge where, during the dry season, you’ll be able to savour a stunning view of the falls.  In the rainy season the spray makes it more difficult to see but you’ll love the cooling mist all the same.

During the dry season, if the water is low enough, you can actually walk along the river to Livingstone Island, the place where David Livingstone first viewed the falls from.  Remember, you are walking across the upper Zambezi, by the crest, not along the gorge where the water crashes.  That would be suicide.

'Devil's Pool' - Natural 'SAFE' swimming.

Devil’s Pool is allegedly safe to swim in when the water level is low enough.  Sorry, I just watched I’m afraid.  This natural pool sits right on the crest of the falls and swimmers are apparently prevented from being hurled over the edge, by a natural rock formation providing an ample lip to the pool.  It just scared the living daylights out of me.  I really wish I was a Steve Irwin type or Bruce Willis, but I’m just a big scared cat when it comes to  things that look dangerous, but supposedly are not.  However, I wish that I had the guts because the thrill must be intense.

There are quite a few wildlife parks in the Victoria Falls area, where you can see most of the spectrum of African animals both large and small.  Safaris are popular and a must see if you make it to Victoria Falls.  For more information regarding short and long tours to Victoria Falls visit:

Victoria Falls Short Tour

Victoria Falls Long Tour

Hotels in the area are usually extremely well appointed.  One that comes to mind is the Zambezi Sun Hotel.  The fine African designs inside and out, rivalled only by the excellence of service, make this hotel a very popular choice.

Zambezi Sun Reception

For five star accommodation then the first choice would have to be the Royal Livingstone Hotel.  I’ll let you all have a look around the pictures and reviews of this one in your own time, but if you can afford it, you’ll never forget the experience.

Have Fun.

Jay

It is not often that you come across dolls that do not have any eyes, ears, lips or nose and that even adults can relate to. It is definitely not often when everyday life and incidents that changed a nation come alive in the form of dolls.

Thanks to the toiling of a dedicated Belgian nurse, Sr Francoise Bosteels, the myriad hues of India, its culture, society, lifestyle and perhaps its history is preserved in the shape of dolls that speak a thousand words in spite of being faceless.

Sister with some of her creations

When my family and I first heard of this unique exhibition of dolls being organized in our city Ahmedabad, India, it was just to suffice our curiosity that we went there. But what we saw changed our concept of dolls for ever.

There was this old woman that I first saw, sitting on an easy chair and knitting, with her basket of yarns right by her side and another stool on which was placed a foldable box of other essentials. She captured my attention because the grand old lady was herself created of wool, just like all the other dolls knitted by Sr. Francoise, who is fondly known as ‘gombe sister’ – Gombe meaning dolls in the Kannada language spoken in Bangalore where she resides.

There was the depiction of Lord Krishna with his identifiable peacock feather head band and flute as if playing melodious tunes. There was a lady too playing the harp and another man playing drums. Peasants were busy harvesting crops and so were the village women engaged with their kitchen chores. There were the children with scant resources fashioning things to play with and also the tailor who seemed to be stitching night and day to meet ends meet.

The flower man in the bicycle, the butcher, the fish seller, the painter, the laborer, the bamboo weavers and the grocer, they all had a story to tell, they all had life.

What astounded me most was the detailing that had gone into creating each of these dolls. It seemed the size of a few inches did not hamper the quest for perfection of Sister Francoise. It was evident she had spent hours on each of her creations and the materials she used were just regular items like bright piece of cloths, very small toys, silver and golden threads for the jewelry, ribbons, cotton etc.  From the pleats of the saree, to the flowers on the women’s tresses, the water hand pump to the earthen pots filled with water, common everyday items enthralled in their miniature forms.

And as if these creative discoveries were not enough, Sr. Francois took the doll experience a step further by re-enacting some past tragedies that India witnessed not so long ago. There were the Tsunami survivor kids, who had lost their family but not the jest for life and who drew the catastrophe in their drawings. The communal riots that had shook the nation with its brutal killing of innocent women, children and men was depicted as dolls of all sizes lying around massacred as an aftermath to a tragedy.

Domestic violence or pittance for a beggar, the harsh reality of a widow’s life or the lady who cleaned toilets for a living, nothing in the society went unobserved from the doll-makers eyes and she created a world that had all its goods and evils at one place.

We returned learning so many things from these dolls. That creativity has no boundaries. That size does not matter, what matters is the thought. That dolls are not just playthings but can do much more in portraying the good and bad of life and maybe even inspire people to building a better society so that the next doll that Sister weaves becomes the tale of happiness and peace.

If you wish to know more about Sr. Francoise and her incredible work, do visit these sites.  

http://living.oneindia.in/celebrity/celebrity-interviews/francoise-bosteel.html

http://www.thehindu.com/thehindu/2000/11/11/stories/13111101.htm

The Siq, guarding the entrance to Petra

I’m probably unique in that I visited Jordan twice before I saw Petra. My only excuse is that the first two times, I was there on business. But, this time, I was on holiday, and determined to see this ancient city, which features high on everybody’s ‘must see’ list.

The Treasury (Photo by Lorraine D. Kellett)

Petra was built by the Nabataeans, who were a nation of merchants and traders, living in the 6th Century BC, in the southern part of what is now Jordan. They built their houses in a rather unusual way. Where anyone else would make mud bricks to build their houses, or quarry blocks of stone and take them away to build a city, the Nabataeans simply dug out caves in the soft sandstone of a narrow canyon.

People who have never been to Petra often recognise its Treasury, which featured in the movie ‘Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade’. This building is right at the entrance of the city, which we approached down a narrow side canyon, called the siq. ‘It’s best to walk’ said Sami, our guide. ‘You can get a horse, camel or carriage back if you wish!’

That was good advice, for there’s much more to Petra than the Treasury … and it will take a long time to see it all. Almost all the city is still standing after 2600 years, not just one or two buildings. Even a day isn’t long enough … although that’s tiring enough.

On the way down the siq, Sami pointed out the clever system of drainage channels, which provided fresh running water almost everywhere in the city, and protected it from the danger of flash floods.

Living in caves suggests a primitive people, but it wasn’t the case here. Many of the buildings in Petra are as grand as many modern buildings. There’s even a Royal Palace. And, we stopped to admire the Qasr el Bint, or ‘Castle of the Woman’ which was believed to be the only building in Petra not to be hollowed out from the cliff.

Qasr al Bint

Sandstone is a reddish colour, which shines brightly in the sun, causing poet Dean Burgon to describe Petra as a ‘… Rose Red city, half as old as time’ … words often repeated in tourist brochures. But, it’s not all red … there are many different colours, and craftsmen make souvenirs for visitors by pouring differently coloured sands into little glass bottles, so as to form pictures and patterns.

Making coloured sand pictures

The books say that a Swiss explorer, Johann Ludwig Burckhardt, who also found the gigantic rock temple at Abu Simbel, in Egypt, discovered Petra in 1812. However, ‘discovered’ maybe isn’t the right word, for the Bedouin people have always lived there, until fairly recently. Indeed, Dr. Nyazi Shaba’an, who was Director of Antiquities at Petra for many years, and now owns the tour company we were travelling with, was born in one of the caves, and his earliest memories are of riding his donkey through the ancient city to school.

And, Sami himself was born in a Bedouin tent nearby.

The author at Petra (Photo by Lorraine D. Kellett)

Some of the caves still house shops and restaurants, although nobody lives permanently in Petra now. We stopped at one restaurant, opposite the open-air theatre, for a cup of tea, and remarked on how cool the interior of the cave was.

Sami told us that when the people were rehoused elsewhere, one old lady refused to move. She said that she wanted to die in the home she’d always known. When King Hussein heard of this, he sent his brother, Prince Hassan, to visit the old lady, and try to persuade her to move. The lady presented the Prince with a covered dish, in which he found a dagger. She told him that she couldn’t disobey a Prince, so would he please kill her now.

Prince Hassan realised then how much the lady loved her home in the cave, so he told the authorities they must allow her to remain as long as she wished, and she stayed there until she died. So, maybe living in a cave isn’t as bad as it sounds?

'It's not a building; it's a whole city'

Since our visit, our guide, Sami, formed his own company, Jordan Inspiration Tours. You can visit him at www.jitours.com

Praslin Beach courtesy of Kirikou.com

Well, you have now. Mahé is the main island in the Seychelles and renown for its timeless beauty and tranquil surroundings.  Mahé was named in honour of the 18th-century governer of Mauritius.  Some of the best beaches in the Seychelles are found here as well as the international airport and the Seychelle’s capital, Victoria.  Mahé  and it’s satellite islands, Praslin and La Digue, form the hub of the tourism trade and are known as the inner islands.  The international airport in Mahé is where all external flights land before the visitors are forwarded to their particular destination.  I say destination because, the Republic of Seychelles comprises of 115 islands, 41 of them form the worlds oldest mid-oceanic granite islands, the rest are coral and

Beau Vallon - Mahé

reef islands that appear to have been sculptured for paradise.  The group of islands known as the Seychelles lie between 480km and 1′600 km away from the coast of east Africa.  The weather is lovely, hot enough, but never too hot or cold year round.  The temperature rarely drops below 24 c or above 30 c and the winds are pleasant when you feel them.

The first record of a setttlement here was in 1770 by the French, who led a small party of whites, Africans and Indians.  The population was just 3′500 when Britain took over in 1814 and had risen to 7′000 by 1825.  Seychelles achieved independence from Britain in 1976, becoming a republic within the commonwealth community.

The ethnic mix in the Seychelles is of the creole type, with a French and African blend, including the obvious presence of Indian, Chinese and, in fact, cultures from most corners of the globe.  You will love the pace of life here and relaxing aura.  This is home to some of the worlds rarest species of flora and fauna with 20% of Mahé being taken up by the Morne Seychellois National Park, a must see if you love nature.  In fact, nearly 50% of Seychelles already limited landmass is specifically for National Parks and Reserves. 

Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve

Two must-sees in the Seychelles are Aldabra, the world’s largest raised coral atoll and Vallée de Mai, in Praslin.  Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve was inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1983 and is a natural palm forest left almost undisturbed by human interference. 

Aldabra giant tortoise

Incidently, they are estimated to weigh around 250kg, do not try to lift one! You will probably be aware that the Latin language has been used to describe every living thing known to mankind.  This creature’s name is ‘Geohelone gigantea’ which I suppose means ’something really big.’  Just for your information, the oldest known one of these died at the spritely age of 250 years old in an Indian zoo back in 2006. 

Not all of the islands have accomodation available but most of them are available as excursions.  With so many islands available you’ll be spoilt for choice in this luxurious archipelago.  There are so many things to see so for more information on available tours, flights and sights visit:

Seychelles Tours

Seychelles Hotels

Seychelles Flights

Zanzibar and Pemba

Hakuna matata, swahili for ‘no problem’, should be the phrase you prepare yourself with as you drift into this oasis known as Zanzibar.  Known by many as the setting for the hit musical ‘The Lion King’ this place lives up to its reputation.  The only problem is, there are no lions in Zanzibar!  Anyway, we will not harp on that fact.  Zanzibar is a  place where rushing is unheard of and where beaches surround this once prominent slave port, ivory and spice exporter.  Zanzibar,  comprises of many islands in the Indian Ocean, just off the coast of Tanzania in East Africa, but the main two are Zanzibar (often called Unguja) and Pemba .  Although now part of  the United Republic of Tanzania, Zanzibar still elects its own parliment and, as such, is semi-autonomous.

The history of Zanzibar is steeped in romance and bloodshed as Arab traders in the 9th and 10th century conjured up the foundations for a thriving slave trading port.  Ivory and spices were also exported in large amounts.  The capital of Zanzibar is Zanzibar City and the old Stone Town within is of great historical significance, so named because of the sheer number of multi-storey stone buildings and Stone Town has been designated as a ‘World Heritage Site’ by the United Nations.  The buildings are actually made of coral and morter, not stone.  Its age has been widely debated, ranging from five or six thousand years ago, built by indigenous Africans who inhabited the whole of this region around that time, to more recently by fishermen or Arab Slave Traders.  The Arab influence is very strong and consequently, 97 percent of the population are now Muslim.  The remaining 3 percent are a mix of Christian, Hindu and Sikh.

Paje Beach

Boatbuilders in Nungwe

See boatbuilders in Nungwe along the northern coast where traditional designs continue to live by the hands of the descendants of age old African shipbuilders that some how make the process look easy and enjoyable. I, on the other hand, cannot even build a paper boat, with full instructions and diagrams.

There are so many things to see in Zanzibar, from the natural wonders of thousands of marine life, to the historical sites and buildings that have combined to make Zanzibar the hidden jewel of Africa.

Jozani Forest

Red Colobus Monkey

Home to the Red Colobus Monkey.  The Red Colobus Monkey, numbering only 1500, are known locally as ‘Kima Punju’ – ‘Poison Monkey’ in english, because local myths speak of the poisonous effects of their ingredients and dead trees or crops are thought to be evidence that these monkeys have been feeding in a particular area.  Jozani Forest is also home to other species of monkey, small antelope and the flora and fauna found in this tropical paradise. 

Snorkling and diving in Zanzibar is world renound as you enter an underworld paradise full of tropical fishes, coral reef, turtles and dolphins.  Beachside barbecues in the evenings are not to be missed and what I learnt most about this island is that you need to want to relax.  This is not a place for extreme sports or extreme anything.  This is exotic pleasure, not designed for those with the insatiable apetite to risk their lives.  Unless, of course, you want to hunt unprotected for sharks, with your eyes closed and an open wound.  Suicide. 

 

Stone Town Door

Stone Town tours are very popular where you can stroll through a town that has remained unchanged for over 200 years.  Wander through its winding alleys and spend hours pondering over the many bazaars.  Marvel at the Arab houses that their owners tried hard to make more elegant than their neighbours.  You will see how the doors of these houses appear to be part of an extravagance competition,  the carved wood adorned with gold studding.  With more than 500 examples of this craftmanship one becomes aware of the one-upmanship practiced by these proud Arabs.

Prison Island

Prison island (Changuu) is just a relaxing 20 minute boat ride away by traditional Dhow (shipping boat), from Stone Town.  This tiny paradise is just half a mile long and 250 yards at its widest point.  It was originally used as a detention centre for reluctant slaves, but now, one would pay to go there.  The old prison ruins have been converted into dwellings for tourists and the island is praised for its snorkling opportunities and, of course, its giant tortoises.    

Giant tortoises

These giant tortoises can live to over 200 years old and many have. Imagine what they have witnessed!  Any tortoise whisperers would have a field day.  The larger ones can easily carry a grown man on their backs with ease, if not with speed.

To conclude, Zanzibar is definetly worth visiting.  It would normally be a destination that you would add to your itinery during a stay in Tanzania and is a perfect addition to any east African tour.  For further information about available tours and holidays visit:

Holidays in Zanzibar

or call Cat at dialaflight on:

+44 1732 593086

Until next time

Jay