The tale of travel in India for most Indians begins with a train journey. It is the beginning of an adventure, of a romantic escapade or return to grandma’s home after a year’s wait. Like blood vessels, Indian rails criss-cross across the nation carrying people, post and parcels from point A to B. But it would be a sheer understatement to call the railways just mode of transport in this country. For many the train journey is as important as the destination itself sometimes even more.

The Indian Railways has many variations. There are the express trains that connect cities and also the mountain rails travelling on their serpentine tracks. There are the locals that make life easier for big city dwellers and also the passenger trains that have more stops that the compulsory pauses between the words of a telegraph message. All in all the distinct services cover the needs of the entire nation and make train travel an adventure in itself.

Here is a peak into the many adventures that might be revealed in some of the Indian train journeys.

The Locals

The Local trains and metros running in cities like Mumbai, Delhi and Kolkata are the public domains where people greet strangers everyday on their way to work and share each other’s life history. For some it is that sacred part of the day when they are compelled to do nothing better than read a book, glance through the newspaper, say their prayers or contemplate in advance the day’s proceedings. The hubbub surrounding them dispels like the white noise giving precious moments of introspection in a hurried life.

For some multitasking working women the local train is also time to shell peas, cut okras or snap the beans for the evening meal. It is a social gathering where the lady sitting next to you does not need to be requested to help you with the peas or hold your daughter’s torn school uniform while you get busy mending the damage.

The local train journeys have their share of drama and action too. Irrespective of class, gender or age people consider it their fundamental right to grab an empty seat as soon as it is available. And this action not just requires physical agility but also verbal ability to nullify other’s claim to the prized seat through various gestures and high decibel utterances. For the mute spectators, some sitting some standing, it is a ritualistic event that changes faces but entertains every day.

The Express

These are the leading actors of the Indian railways. From Kashmir to Kanyakumari and Maharashtra to Nagaland the countrywide network of express trains is magnanimous. And considering they have to carry the weight of the second most populated country in the world, it is only just to have the world’s second largest railway network for the masses.

Most Indian households make quite elaborate plans when they have to board one of the express trains for a journey. There is the meticulous packing and the detailed food preparation. It is just to say that food is one of the reasons why Indians like traveling in trains so much. It gives an opportunity to munch on the local specialties at every stop via the station food and also relish the packed up meals made lovingly by your wife or mom at home. Some families even have specific journey meals that are especially prepared every time there is a train travel.

Your social skills are put to practice best in these trains. Many Indians believe that the reason why you are sharing your compartment with various other strangers who are travelling to the same destination is because somewhere you are connected and this connection can be sealed best by sharing meals and conversations. The moment you board a train and identify your seat, there will be people staring at you blatantly and asking the first of the series of questions to come, “Till where you are going?” The answer will help them understand many things instantly. Whether you will be a good company till the city they are also travelling to. Whether you will ask them to exchange their lower birth seat with them or whether they can propose the same thing to you. Whether you will make a good friend and be in touch even after the end of the journey. Whether your wife would share the secret of her glowing skin with their wife and much such contemplation.

Many a business deals, public debates, spiritualistic revelations and chance romantic rendezvous have been staged during these train journeys and continue to be the heart and soul of these travels every day. When your co-passenger opens the bundles of home-made goodies for you or when you exchange business cards with a man who was a stranger not an hour ago, you know that the infectious Indian rail travel bug has bitten you too.

The Luxury

Luxury trains are few plying on the Indian tracks but what lacks in quantity surely compensates with quality. The pride of Indian Luxury trains is unquestionably The Palace on Wheels that travels mostly through royal Rajasthan and promises a week long journey that is equally lavish. The Deccan Odyssey, Golden Chariot, Royal Orient are few others that pamper you in style while travelling amidst the beautiful Indian landscape, sometimes through deserts, sometimes through ravine or sometimes past the scenic sea.

Local presence is somewhat less in luxury trains because of the very reason that they are luxury coaches, reserved for the elite and the ones who can afford the royal pampering. But the journey is a good experience for those who want to experience the Indian railways minus the crowd.

Whether it is the luxury trains, the locals or the multi destination choo-chooing express trains, the train journeys in India will always leave you with an experience that you can fathom in India alone.

Image Credit

Flickr creativecommons by James Cridland, Ben Sutherland and Christian Haugen

The problem with big world cities like Mumbai is people here are always in want of the sun, free space and the green they so ruefully cut out of their lives to build their industries and urban homes. That is why every small or big opportunity they can get to reconnect with the natural world, they do so with open arms. And thankfully, around Mumbai there are still a handful of places left that have preserved the crisp, fresh smelling scents the way nature intended them to be.

Karnala is one such destination – a weekend getaway from Mumbai rather than a proper holiday spot. It does not have that many nature trails where you can get lost in or that much history buried in its depths which need hours to excavate. But it does have the marvelous distinction of being just an hour away from Mumbai and far far away from maddening crowds, obnoxious odors and soulless skyscrapers.

It is more like a conserved patch of ecosystem miraculously saved from human infestation, thriving on the outskirts of the mega city and giving its dwellers a chance to recognize and feel the glory of nature.

Karnala is situated South of Mumbai about 10 Km from the New Mumbai suburb Panvel. It does present a visible jolt initially to see a beautiful canopy of green so close to the city. As soon as you leave Panvel, in fact, the air starts to feel fresher and soon chirping birds, frolicking squirrels, butterflies, even monkeys are seen swinging from tree to tree and welcoming you to their secret den.

Karnala Bird Santuary

Karnala is a protected habitat and it is thanks to the many birds found here and its distinction of being a bird sanctuary that it has still been able to retain its natural charm. The sanctuary itself is nothing to be intimated about and provides a fantastic way to encourage kids and adults to become acquainted with plants and birds. Although the sanctuary is bisected quite harshly by the Mumbai-Goa highway, it is still a permanent home to around 150 species of birds and 40 more of the migratory kind. The best time to visit this place for bird watching is after October till February, but if you are just happy seeing a bird or two and walking in their neighborhood, you are welcome to do so all the year round.

Mountain Hike

A view that is as stunning as the spread of lush greenery around here is the Karnala Peak. It is crested by a thumb-shaped pinnacle, which is actually a volcanic plug. Many come to Karnala with dreams to conquer this very peak. If you intend to do so too, start as early as possible to save yourself from the afternoon sun.

The slope is not a challenge for the fit. You can quite easily reach the Karnala fort in an hour. This fort is mostly in ruins but has a small temple you can visit. Take time to listen and you are sure to be drawn into the the conversation of screeching langur monkeys or the twittering birds. At the base of the pinnacle awaits the stunning view of the Sahyadri Mountain ranges and the Mumbai harbor.

Thumbs- up

While the mountain trek could be for everyone, the thumbs-up pinnacle should only be reserved for expert climbers. At one side the crest is a straight rock face, but at the other end  there is scope for climbing if you have the necessary gear and the proficiency. But it is achievable and the sheer delight that comes from accomplishing such a feat is reason enough to do it.

Bed and Breakfast

The place has a couple of decent resorts and eating joints. You can also always carry your lunch with you for a picnic meal amidst the shade of the many trees. Do ensure though that you leave the place as clean and green as it was earlier. 

A good idea is to reach the sanctuary in the early hours of the morning, trek, scale the pinnacle, watch birds, eat your packed snack or meal and return by evening. The 12 hours or so that you spend here, might just be the rejuvenating escape you needed to battle it out for the next busy week.

Image Credit Elroy Serrao, Ravi Vaidyanathan & Rajkumar 1220 via wikimedia commons

The long cotton cloths were wrapped nicely around our heads, covering it and providing a safe resting place for the belt of the plucking basket. Stepping down, into the green carpet like hedges, we began what many around us were already busy doing. Plucking the tender leaves and a bud from the tip of the tea shrub and safely flinging it behind into the depths of the basket. But while my sister-in-law and I merely posed for the cameras, many of our co-workers were already emptying their baskets and with rhythmic dexterity nipping the buds in hundreds to start the journey of the leaf from here to one day becoming a tantalizing cup of a Nilgiri Tea straight from the tea gardens of Ooty.

My sister-in-law and me, busy plucking tea leaves

‘A little England on the rounded tops of the Nilgiri hills’ is how Amitav Ghosh described Ooty in one of his novels. Needless to say this hill town in Tamil Nadu, India delighted the British for many years as a reminiscent of their land in this eastern part of the world.

What the British though found really hard to master was the name of this hill town of southern India. ‘Udhagamandalam’ seemed quite a mouth full as did the later versions of ‘Ootacamund’ or ‘Whadacamund’. After much deliberation and discussions with the Todas, the original land owners of this place, finally the simple and succinct name Ooty was used to describe the beautiful centre point of the Nilgiri ranges.

Today, though Ooty is the name everyone utters when in search for a cool, mist- laden picturesque location with its tea and spice covered hills. Be it the weekend traveller from Bangalore, the dwellers of North India like us who mark a trip to Ooty along with a visit to other southern jewels or the tourist from overseas, keen to see every façade of India, its temples, traffic, and the hill stations dotted along the country map blessed with pleasant climate and made famous by the British since the colonial times. As a result the Ooty of today is less of a priviledged paradise and more of a crowd puller in the true sense of the phrase.

But despite the crowd, Ooty has not lost its touch to soothe your senses the moment you catch a glimpse of this town. And if it is the mountain train journey you choose to reach this destination, the transition from the smog to fog is even more rapid. This train chugs along the ratchet and pinion track giving quick glimpses of the series of piquant mountains or the ghostly pines lining the mist laden roads. It travels the curvaceous mountains, sometimes revealing the deep ravines and sometimes the limitless tea gardens. And when you finally arrive at Ooty, it is then that you realise that the train journey was not a short lived fantasy but a precinct to what is to come.

Courtesy prakhar via cc/Flickr

The town has preserved the colonial era in patches especially in the churches spread around the place and a few old homes. But what is perhaps the most visible reminder of the bygone era is the Ooty lake which was constructed by John Sullivan the first collector of the town in 1824. It is today the entertainment focal point with its boat rides, pony rides and other activities.

For those looking for more adventure than sitting by the lake side, just 10 km away from the main town is the Dodda Betta or Big Mountain,the highest peak of the Nilgiri ranges. It provides glimpse of the unmatched vistas of the nilgiri at a strategic point that joins the eastern and western ghats of India.

Ooty also has some natural wonders of the man-made kind. One of them being the botanical garden, a well laid out exhibition of myriad plants and flowers. The main attraction here is a fossilised tree trunk that is supposed to be 20 million years old. If you are visiting in winter, the rose garden too is something of an experience with scent of multicoloured roses wafting in the air and a spectrum of 1000 and more varieties of the world’s favourite flower in display in all of 10 acres of land.

Seen at the Botanical Garden, Courtesy Swami Stream via cc/Flickr

At other times of the year though, it is not roses but the aroma of tea that may automatically lead you to one of the tea estates spread across the town. Like true connoisseurs of this aromatic beverage you can participate in the ceremony of tea-tasting or you can simply opt to hop in a little patch under the pine trees and pose for a photograph to show off in the urban world probably with a cuppa.

The shops around the town sell the priciest of Nilgiri tea and also aromatic oils, spices and essences. There are also numerous hand made chocolate flavours to pick from as soveiniers or simple treats to enjoy on your way back.

Tea, trees and visual treats, that’s Ooty for you – the queen of hill stations.

As children, my brother and I always looked forward to our summer holidays when we would be visiting some unknown part of India with our parents and spent glorious days frolicking and exploring a place. The memories of these visits today come in flashes and almost always revolve around particular incidents rather than the whole trip and the sightseeing. Like what I remember of Mussoorie, one of the most popular hill stations of India is not the hills or picturesque locations, but a toothbrush (a childhood treasure) bought from the town Mall that could be detached, kept in a box and joined together again to be used for brushing. I also faintly remember looking from a roadside telescope towards the peak of a hill that on keen observation looked just like a seated camel. It is only now that I know that the rock is still there and indeed known as camel rock, one of the hotspots of Mussoorie.

Courtesy crowGraphy via Flickr

Mussoorie was discovered like many other hill stations of India, by British Army personnel named Captain Young in 1820. With the hues of blue and white decking the entire region, clouds, trees, mountains and waterfalls etched like a perfectly painted picture, the small hill town was fondly known to be called as the Queen of the hills and soon became a much sorted summer destination for British officials and later also for Indians. The town was home to Sir George Everest too, the first surveyor general of India and the man who gave his name to Mount Everest. His home, Everest House is still here and can be visited.

Mussoorie lies 35 Km north of Dehradun, the provisional capital of Uttaranchal and a gateway to the Garhwal Hills. Perched on a horse-shoe shaped ridge above the Doon valley, the life in this small town centres around the Mall, the main street decked with eating joints, shops, and interesting buildings, some of the Raj era. Many fascinating items are up for grabs in the array of small shops in the Mall but what is a real bargain here, is the varied range of woollens made by the Tibetan community living in the region and working wonders on yarns for centuries.

While street shopping has its charm, the real glory of Mussoorie can be felt when you take time to wander off towards the hills. There is a ropeway from the Mall to Gun Hill, a hill called so because of the gun that was perched on the peak and fired blank exactly at mid-day to help people adjust their watches. This pre-Independence practice has now ceased however the hill still succeeds to fire-up exhilarating emotions when on a clear day it blesses mankind with heavenly view of the greater Himalayan peaks of Nandadevi, Kedarnath and Badrinath.

Kempty falls, Courtesy bijoy mohan via Flickr

Where there are the hills, there are also the waterfalls, and true enough Mussoorie has its share of gurgling water cascading down the twists and turns of the mountain paths and creating magical rhapsodies on the way. The refreshingly cold water of most of this falls, like the Kempty falls lying 12 km northwest of town, the Jharipani falls or the Bhatta falls on the Mussoorie-Deradun road, gives every visitor a chance to feel the magic of the mountains, soothing the body, mind and soul.

Mussoorie is best visited in summer months from April to June, but September till November is also a good time when the view of the Himalayan ranges is particularly awe-inspiring. Uttaranchal as a state is known to be blessed with natural beauty all around. For hikers, lovers of adventure sports, trekkers, and nature-lovers, the whole area is like a treasure trove waiting to be explored. Budget travellers and those who can travel the world with a rucksack are particularly in for a delight with the warm smiles and cool breezes giving you company all the way. Just keep your camera handy and breath-in every fraction of this picture perfect setting.

In India it is still fairly simple to leave urbanization behind and reach a place where the only things you run into are lush green meadows, wild flowers and quaint hill tops. These destinations are not what you will find in tourist maps, but what the path going out of a crowded city will automatically lead you to.

Saswad near the city of Pune in Maharashtra is one such destination. Hidden amidst the effervescent Sahyadri mountain ranges, the place is a jewel of an abode for someone who weighs far more importance to nature than nightlife. If you are living in Pune and desperately in need of a break or if you are a traveler dying to see the India of the small towns and villages, Saswad is a good place to begin.

Flickr photo by Swami Stream

This fledgling town has as much natural beauty as history hidden inside the walls of long forgotten fortresses and temples. In fact it has given to India many of its eminent saints, leaders and authors. Saswad was also once the epicenter of many activities of one of the greatest Maratha rulers- Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj.

Things to See and Do

The exploration of Saswad can begin right for the foot hills of the mountain one has to climb to reach the town. The valley is known as Dive ghat and has a beautiful lake call Mastani Lake built by Maratha ruler Bajirao Peshwa for lady Mastani.  As you climb along the serpentine path cut through the mountain, the view becomes ever more mesmerizing and trekking is most certainly a viable option here.

Saswad looks particularly heavenly during the monsoons and if that is the time you opt to visit, the gurgling sounds of seasonal waterfalls, cascading from every crevice down the mountain will only add to the adventure. Some of these falls are at a distance, but most are easily approachable and irresistible when all you wish to do is splash around in the cool natural springs.

Once you reach the plateau, it has its share of roadside eateries, mountain caverns turned into temples, and scattered villages, but what you see most are green pastures, fields and acres and acres of land with freshly grown figs, custard apples and sapodilla. Women and men sitting at the roadside shacks are more than eager to part with these delicious, freshly picked fruits at an easily bargained price. But be sure to buy ample as once you have tasted them you will definitely want to have some more.

One of the first historical monuments that comes into picture as you approach the town is Fort Jadhavgarh, a 300 year old fort that has been recently renovated and converted to a hotel. If you have the time and the money to spent, it is a fantastic experience in itself, with also a museum attached with the hotel.

The town itself looks sleepy, and laid back with just one main market place and fewer eating places, but as you dig deeper into the small lanes, another fort wall shows its existence. It is actually the Purandar Wada, a dilapidated structure today, but considered to be Maharashtra’s oldest standing structure of the era when Peshwas rules the kingdom. It was the residence of a minister in Peshwa’s court named Ambaji Purandare most probably in the year 1710.        

The road to Saswad and beyond is also a major pilgrimage route. There are ample temples and shrines spread within the town limits and also further at places known as Narayanpur, Jejuri, Pandharpur, Morgaon and Bhuleshwar.

Sacred Nandi Bull at Sangameshwar Temple

A temple worth a visit in Saswad more so for its historical significance rather than the religious one, is the Sangameshwar temple at the confluence of two rivers Karhe and Chambli. Dedicated to Lord Shiva and believed to be built during the Yadav era what is particularly interesting about the temple is the huge Nandi Bull adorning the path leading to the sanctum sanctorum and looking majestic in every way. During monsoons, when the rivers are overflowing, the view of the ancient temple and the water bodies is breathtaking.

A short distance from Saswad at a place called ketkawale is also a temple dedicated to Lord Balaji, which is a magnificent replica of the world famous Tirupati Balaji temple.

View from malhargad fort, Flickr photo by DraconianRain

For historians, the area is flooding with information on India’s great past. The forts of Malhargad, Vajragad, Rajgad and Torana are all located at a yawning distance from the town. Maratha Rulers were known for their ace gorilla warfare skills and the knack to built forts that lie hidden behind the great Sahyadri Mountains. There are many instances in history when the mighty Mughals attempted to scale and conquer these forts but failed. One look at the way the forts stand today is enough to realize the immense difficulty the Mughals must have faced and the brilliant architectural knowledge the people living in those era had.   

You can have an impromptu picnic at any of the many meadows you see here, or you can live for a few moments like a king in the heritage hotel in the vicinity. You can forget frozen foods and taste the goodness of farm fresh fruits for a change or you can even get yourself invited to the small huts of villagers living in the area with a big smile and even bigger hearts. You can walk, ride a bike or climb a mountain. You can even ride a wild horse grazing happily somewhere around if that is what you feel like doing.

What you can experience best in a place like Saswad, is an India untarnished, unpolished and unspoiled by commercialization. Spend a day just exploring and accepting the place as it is, and you will have seen a part of India, not shown in any guide books.

For most tourists, Goa in India is the place where you can forget time for a while. Here things move in their own sweet pace without the hassles of a fast edged life and the need to do ten things at a time. It is an ideal location for the counter therapy needed by work obsessed individuals. A land where you can just laze around, relax and keep laptops & planners at bay while enjoying a dip in the sea and the fiesta on land.

Recline and Relax, courtesy diametrik via Flickr

Although every single shore of the Arabian Sea touching the Goan landscape is mesmerizing, there are a few beaches that seem like the crowning glory of this spectacular destination.

One among them is the Calangute Beach in North Goa.

The Beach

Calangute beach is just 15 Km away from the state capital Panajim and that makes it very easy to locate and reach. With narrow roads and coconut trees lining the path, a rented two-wheeler seems like the most preferred choice to move around while you also take in the beauty of the land.

As you reach closer and closer to the beach, two things catch your attention. The strong smell of wet shores alluring you towards the sea and the countless shops lining the street sides selling everything from trinkets, toys, books, bells, hats, grocery to the obvious beach wear.

Street Vendors, courtesy Paul Mannix via Flickr

Nearer the shores, are endless shacks smelling of sea-food and busy preparing some of the most mouth-watering preparations of sharks, crabs, lobsters, shrimps, mussels and other catch-of-the-day.

It isn’t easy to leave all those temptations behind, but not difficult either once you have seen the sea. Calangute is like one large stretch of uninterrupted, heavenly piece of land where the sea loves to dance around like a flamboyant flamenco dancer.

Once you are here, the feet automatically choose the shortest distance towards the water leaving footprints on the golden sand and finally letting the saline water engulf you with open arms.

Coastline, courtesy diametrik via Flickr

The complete stretch is safe and filled with everything a beach essentially means. Frolicking families, aroma of sea food wafting from the shacks, eager hands building sand castles, colorful crowds, beach umbrellas, and also hippies scattered here and there, who actually discovered this beach in the 60s and made it so popular around the world.

What to do

Along with the sun, sand and the sea to your disposal, Calangute also offers adventure sports like parasailing, water skiing and wind surfing. The seafood is well accompanied by local liquor made of cashew nuts called the feni. And during the afternoons, when the sun is a little hard to bear, you can always indulge in endless street shopping at the Tibetan market, Saturday bazaars or other street shops.

Up, up and Away, courtesy $holaydevil via Flickr

When to visit

The period from June to October brings heavy rains in Goa and therefore is avoidable. Anytime after October till February is good time to visit. March to May is good too if you do not mind the sunny summer.

Sunset, courtesy diametrik via Flickr

The Zambezi river, Africa’s fourth longest and parent to Victoria Falls, stretches 2′200 miles.  Starting at the Central African Plateau, the Zambezi passes through or serves as a border for six countries: Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Mozambique, Namibia and Angola.  Finally, it drains into the Indian Ocean after landing in the Mozambique Channel.  It hosts two major hydroelectric power stations, the Kariba Dam providing power to Zimbabwe and Zambia and the Cahora Bassa Dam serving Mozambique and South Africa.  This river is impressive, rough and rapid in some places and calmly flowing in others.  It supports an abundance of wildlife and feeds endless plants as it ’s’ shapes it’s way from the Congo through to Mozambique.  Many an adventurous and sporty tourist have flocked to the Zambezi for whitewater rafting or Kayaking.  There are three navigable sections to the Zambezi river, the upper, middle and lower sections.

Victoria Falls

As spectacular as this mighty river is, we are only going to be looking closely at it’s largest water fall, Victoria Falls, in this blog.  So named by David Livingstone (the Scottish explorer) in honour of Queen Elizabeth of England.  The indigenous name for the falls is Mosi-oa-Tunya (The Smoke That Thunders) and this is the official name used to refer to it in Zambia.  Zimbabweans just calls it ‘Victoria Falls.’  Victoria Falls marks the end of the upper Zambezi and the start of the middle Zambezi.  It also forms part of the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe.

Devil's Cataract

You will not be dissappointed by the wonder of such a powerful and magnificent show of natural beauty and strength.  It was no wonder that David Livingstone, upon seeing these falls, remarked that “angels in their flight” must have “gazed” upon this awesome site.  David Livingstone is credited as being the first European to view Victoria Falls and as previously mentioned, he named them so.  Between 1852 and 1856, David Livingstone navigated the whole of the Zambezi river from it’s source right through to it’s mouth in the Indian Ocean.  I’ve always wondered what inspires such men to know all there is to know about whatever takes their fancy.  I imagine that it was no small task to say the least. 

Victoria Falls Bridge

The falls were not of much interest to Europeans until after 1905 when a railway crossing was built to facilitate Cecil Rhodes’ mining efforts and desire to conquer Africa in as many commercial ways as possible.  Cecil Rhodes’ drive to create a railroad running from Cairo to the Cape, brought about the plans for the first crossing of Victoria falls.  He made sure that the bridge was positioned so that trains would be sprayed by the falls as they passed.

Since the building of the bridge, tourism has steadily increased over the years until, by the turn of the millennium, more than quarter of a million people visited the falls annually.  Now, due to the affordable and easy access by road, there are more Zambian and Zimbabwean tourists than international ones.  This is unlike the game parks.

Things to See and Do

I'm sorry - I would pass out!

The falls themselves are enormous with lots of varying views of different aspects.  You can take micro-light or fixed winged flights over the falls if you’re not scared of heights.  I’m sorry, but I am a chicken, I couldn’t do it.  If I get to close to any deep drop I have to fight with the sheer fear of wanting to jump or fall coupled with a chilling shiver through my spine.  I’m not suicidal, it’s just a fear that many people have including me.  Okay, just me. 

On the opposite side to the falls you can walk through the rain forest and at times you’ll be able to see clearly enough to catch a glimpse of the falls.  You’ll soon reach Knife Edge Bridge where, during the dry season, you’ll be able to savour a stunning view of the falls.  In the rainy season the spray makes it more difficult to see but you’ll love the cooling mist all the same.

During the dry season, if the water is low enough, you can actually walk along the river to Livingstone Island, the place where David Livingstone first viewed the falls from.  Remember, you are walking across the upper Zambezi, by the crest, not along the gorge where the water crashes.  That would be suicide.

'Devil's Pool' - Natural 'SAFE' swimming.

Devil’s Pool is allegedly safe to swim in when the water level is low enough.  Sorry, I just watched I’m afraid.  This natural pool sits right on the crest of the falls and swimmers are apparently prevented from being hurled over the edge, by a natural rock formation providing an ample lip to the pool.  It just scared the living daylights out of me.  I really wish I was a Steve Irwin type or Bruce Willis, but I’m just a big scared cat when it comes to  things that look dangerous, but supposedly are not.  However, I wish that I had the guts because the thrill must be intense.

There are quite a few wildlife parks in the Victoria Falls area, where you can see most of the spectrum of African animals both large and small.  Safaris are popular and a must see if you make it to Victoria Falls.  For more information regarding short and long tours to Victoria Falls visit:

Victoria Falls Short Tour

Victoria Falls Long Tour

Hotels in the area are usually extremely well appointed.  One that comes to mind is the Zambezi Sun Hotel.  The fine African designs inside and out, rivalled only by the excellence of service, make this hotel a very popular choice.

Zambezi Sun Reception

For five star accommodation then the first choice would have to be the Royal Livingstone Hotel.  I’ll let you all have a look around the pictures and reviews of this one in your own time, but if you can afford it, you’ll never forget the experience.

Have Fun.

Jay

Praslin Beach courtesy of Kirikou.com

Well, you have now. Mahé is the main island in the Seychelles and renown for its timeless beauty and tranquil surroundings.  Mahé was named in honour of the 18th-century governer of Mauritius.  Some of the best beaches in the Seychelles are found here as well as the international airport and the Seychelle’s capital, Victoria.  Mahé  and it’s satellite islands, Praslin and La Digue, form the hub of the tourism trade and are known as the inner islands.  The international airport in Mahé is where all external flights land before the visitors are forwarded to their particular destination.  I say destination because, the Republic of Seychelles comprises of 115 islands, 41 of them form the worlds oldest mid-oceanic granite islands, the rest are coral and

Beau Vallon - Mahé

reef islands that appear to have been sculptured for paradise.  The group of islands known as the Seychelles lie between 480km and 1′600 km away from the coast of east Africa.  The weather is lovely, hot enough, but never too hot or cold year round.  The temperature rarely drops below 24 c or above 30 c and the winds are pleasant when you feel them.

The first record of a setttlement here was in 1770 by the French, who led a small party of whites, Africans and Indians.  The population was just 3′500 when Britain took over in 1814 and had risen to 7′000 by 1825.  Seychelles achieved independence from Britain in 1976, becoming a republic within the commonwealth community.

The ethnic mix in the Seychelles is of the creole type, with a French and African blend, including the obvious presence of Indian, Chinese and, in fact, cultures from most corners of the globe.  You will love the pace of life here and relaxing aura.  This is home to some of the worlds rarest species of flora and fauna with 20% of Mahé being taken up by the Morne Seychellois National Park, a must see if you love nature.  In fact, nearly 50% of Seychelles already limited landmass is specifically for National Parks and Reserves. 

Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve

Two must-sees in the Seychelles are Aldabra, the world’s largest raised coral atoll and Vallée de Mai, in Praslin.  Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve was inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1983 and is a natural palm forest left almost undisturbed by human interference. 

Aldabra giant tortoise

Incidently, they are estimated to weigh around 250kg, do not try to lift one! You will probably be aware that the Latin language has been used to describe every living thing known to mankind.  This creature’s name is ‘Geohelone gigantea’ which I suppose means ’something really big.’  Just for your information, the oldest known one of these died at the spritely age of 250 years old in an Indian zoo back in 2006. 

Not all of the islands have accomodation available but most of them are available as excursions.  With so many islands available you’ll be spoilt for choice in this luxurious archipelago.  There are so many things to see so for more information on available tours, flights and sights visit:

Seychelles Tours

Seychelles Hotels

Seychelles Flights

Zanzibar and Pemba

Hakuna matata, swahili for ‘no problem’, should be the phrase you prepare yourself with as you drift into this oasis known as Zanzibar.  Known by many as the setting for the hit musical ‘The Lion King’ this place lives up to its reputation.  The only problem is, there are no lions in Zanzibar!  Anyway, we will not harp on that fact.  Zanzibar is a  place where rushing is unheard of and where beaches surround this once prominent slave port, ivory and spice exporter.  Zanzibar,  comprises of many islands in the Indian Ocean, just off the coast of Tanzania in East Africa, but the main two are Zanzibar (often called Unguja) and Pemba .  Although now part of  the United Republic of Tanzania, Zanzibar still elects its own parliment and, as such, is semi-autonomous.

The history of Zanzibar is steeped in romance and bloodshed as Arab traders in the 9th and 10th century conjured up the foundations for a thriving slave trading port.  Ivory and spices were also exported in large amounts.  The capital of Zanzibar is Zanzibar City and the old Stone Town within is of great historical significance, so named because of the sheer number of multi-storey stone buildings and Stone Town has been designated as a ‘World Heritage Site’ by the United Nations.  The buildings are actually made of coral and morter, not stone.  Its age has been widely debated, ranging from five or six thousand years ago, built by indigenous Africans who inhabited the whole of this region around that time, to more recently by fishermen or Arab Slave Traders.  The Arab influence is very strong and consequently, 97 percent of the population are now Muslim.  The remaining 3 percent are a mix of Christian, Hindu and Sikh.

Paje Beach

Boatbuilders in Nungwe

See boatbuilders in Nungwe along the northern coast where traditional designs continue to live by the hands of the descendants of age old African shipbuilders that some how make the process look easy and enjoyable. I, on the other hand, cannot even build a paper boat, with full instructions and diagrams.

There are so many things to see in Zanzibar, from the natural wonders of thousands of marine life, to the historical sites and buildings that have combined to make Zanzibar the hidden jewel of Africa.

Jozani Forest

Red Colobus Monkey

Home to the Red Colobus Monkey.  The Red Colobus Monkey, numbering only 1500, are known locally as ‘Kima Punju’ – ‘Poison Monkey’ in english, because local myths speak of the poisonous effects of their ingredients and dead trees or crops are thought to be evidence that these monkeys have been feeding in a particular area.  Jozani Forest is also home to other species of monkey, small antelope and the flora and fauna found in this tropical paradise. 

Snorkling and diving in Zanzibar is world renound as you enter an underworld paradise full of tropical fishes, coral reef, turtles and dolphins.  Beachside barbecues in the evenings are not to be missed and what I learnt most about this island is that you need to want to relax.  This is not a place for extreme sports or extreme anything.  This is exotic pleasure, not designed for those with the insatiable apetite to risk their lives.  Unless, of course, you want to hunt unprotected for sharks, with your eyes closed and an open wound.  Suicide. 

 

Stone Town Door

Stone Town tours are very popular where you can stroll through a town that has remained unchanged for over 200 years.  Wander through its winding alleys and spend hours pondering over the many bazaars.  Marvel at the Arab houses that their owners tried hard to make more elegant than their neighbours.  You will see how the doors of these houses appear to be part of an extravagance competition,  the carved wood adorned with gold studding.  With more than 500 examples of this craftmanship one becomes aware of the one-upmanship practiced by these proud Arabs.

Prison Island

Prison island (Changuu) is just a relaxing 20 minute boat ride away by traditional Dhow (shipping boat), from Stone Town.  This tiny paradise is just half a mile long and 250 yards at its widest point.  It was originally used as a detention centre for reluctant slaves, but now, one would pay to go there.  The old prison ruins have been converted into dwellings for tourists and the island is praised for its snorkling opportunities and, of course, its giant tortoises.    

Giant tortoises

These giant tortoises can live to over 200 years old and many have. Imagine what they have witnessed!  Any tortoise whisperers would have a field day.  The larger ones can easily carry a grown man on their backs with ease, if not with speed.

To conclude, Zanzibar is definetly worth visiting.  It would normally be a destination that you would add to your itinery during a stay in Tanzania and is a perfect addition to any east African tour.  For further information about available tours and holidays visit:

Holidays in Zanzibar

or call Cat at dialaflight on:

+44 1732 593086

Until next time

Jay

In our first post on Mombasa we travelled from the airport to Bamburi beach where we found accommodation, then alternative accommodation.  We looked at the Severin Sea Lodge where we had a nice stay but discovered that it was overpriced for the level of service that we were given.  I must say, as I forgot to mention in our last blog, you must check out the Imani Dhow Restaurant in the Severin Sea Lodge.  It’s not cheap, of course, but the Swahili style atmosphere and authentic musical accompinement by a resident Swahili artist is very romantic indeed (even if I went in there by myself).  It is actually made from an old Swahili Dhow ship that has been cut, preserved and made into a restaurant.  The vessel juts out from the rear side of the hotel and you are surrounded by the palm trees.  The most cost effective way to visit this hotel is by way of a package tour which will include a safari plus 10 nights at the hotel – according to their site – these depart from Germany.

Be sure to investigate the beach frontage as you can walk along the beach from The Severin Sea Lodge to Papweza Suites via many a good place to stop, such as a place called Pirates.  Pirates is a bar/restaurant and on the weekend they often have volleyball and basketball tournaments.  Pirates has a public beach area where you’ll mix more with the locals especially on the weekends when families enjoy their country along with you.  Some tourists prefer to stay cocooned in  their own spot but not me, I’m all over and everywhere!

I have also heard amazing reviews on Nyali Beach Hotel and from what I saw, it looks impressive.  I went there for dinner one evening and was pleasanlty surprised.

We then moved on to papwezasuites where I was blown away by their one, two and three bedroom suites with stunning views of the beach and Ocean.  Once you’ve settled into your accommodation, you’ll want to explore your surroundings a little.  I advise that you use the hotel taxi service and befriend a driver.  After your first trip, arrange future trips on a cost by day basis.  Haggle for a good bargain and even get price comparisons for quarter and half day prices.  If you walk around the corner from Papweza Suites, near the gas station you’ll see a bar called ‘Cheers’ and whilst you may be tempted to hang around in there, just go there to find a taxi.  If you go in looking for anything else, you’ll probably find it.  Actually, they do a lovely keg  (draft beer to us Brits) Tusker, ice cold and a variety of snacks!  But right now, you need a taxi. 

Ask the driver to take you to Mtwapa, it’s a few miles drive up the Nyali road where you’ll pass local life and culture.  Don’t be scared to stop and investigate with the help of your driver, it’s safer than many places in the US or UK.   Just observe your normal measure of caution when in a place that you are not familiar with.

There will be several places to stop and eat but I would recommend stopping at the Moorings seafood restaurant that floats on Mtwapa creek.  You cannot miss it as you’re driving towards Mtwapa.  You’ll drive over a lake and you’ll notice it on the left just floating and tempting, turn the next possible left turn and, although it looks like the road doesn’t lead anywhere, it does.  The food is lovely and the atmosphere the same.  Check out their site for more information: Moorings.

The whole journey is sprinkled with night spots and restaurants worth popping into even if it is for one glass – just to catch the vibe.  If you’ve been in Kenya for more than ten minutes you’ll be aware of NYAMA CHOMA (barbecued meat) which is very very tasty.  One word of warning though, as with any tropical destination, be prepared with diarrhoea medication and please, it sounds crazy, please carry some baby wipes!  Even if you’re a grown man you’ll appreciate the comfort they may give you during the hard times.  Be careful where you eat and if you are not from Africa or used to outdoor eating in a semi-rural setting, choose to dine in places with adequate kitchen facilities.  I’m not saying that you should try to find a place with a fitted kitchen – just use your better judgement.  Also, please do not over eat – that’s when the problems can happen.  Sample food when away from the hotel, but do not stuff yourself.

After passing through Mtwapa, you’ll end up in a place called Kikambala.  You’re thinking “So?” but you’ll really need to go that far to experience what I believe to be, an unmissable venue.  Porini Restaurant, a combination of typical mombasa cuisine mixed with seychellois and here, you can stuff yourself.  It’s mouth watering!  Make sure to try the Porini Chicken and ask them to show you their Giant Aldabra Tortoises.  They also have reasonably priced accomodation worth checking out if you want to keep the expenses down and although you will not be close to the beach, the atmosphere will more than make up for that visit: www.bokoboko-kenya.de for more details.

Mombasa South Coast

Now, if you go to Mombasa and do not visit the south coast – you’re mad.  No other words for you.  You can catch a taxi, or, if you’re comfortable by now you can hire a car and drive yourself there – I did.  You can find cheap cars to rent in Mtwapa.  Just look out for the signs.  You’ll drive through town and then board the ferry.  Well, not as easily as that.  You’ll want to get directions first, but it’s not hard.  Once you’re there, before going anywhere, go to Forty Thieves Corner in Diani Beach.  There’s a lovely bar and restaurant with a mixture of seating from perched over the sea to snuggled, enclosed and romantic.  The venue oozes down onto the beach with as much elegance and grace as is naturally possible.  Kenyans frequent this place so you  know the food’s good.

Large Tembo Villa

I like to keep things homely, so the place that I’ll recommend you stay is a very homely but luxurious villa perched just a few rows back from the beach in Diani.  There is a very large villa in the compound and a smaller cottage.  Tembo villas is not one you are likely to be able to find on just any online travel site.  You will need to contact the owner directly, Lenrick Guy.  His contact details are on the website but the website is not so good.  Please do not be put off by this and try to call or email him.  He just isn’t gifted in that area, that’s all.  Tell him Jay from London sent you.

Tembo Cottage

The compound has a 12 metre swimming pool and is ideal for families as it is very secure and homely.   Lenrick, the owner, is very well known by the locals and is involved with several local programmes to further enhance the local facilites.  He is very approachable too.

Well, I guess we’re done with Mombasa for now so you can go looking for those flight deals.  Remember to visit www.dialaflight.co.uk or call (+44)01732 593086 and ask for Cat as a part of your flight searching.