An image of India for many, conjures up images of ascetics in bare minimum with locks of hair towering above their head like a coiled serpent and a trident or a metal casket in their hands. Needless to say, such saints are in plenty in this birthplace of Hindu religion and though the India showcased to the world today is vary of this image, it is still an undeniable and ingrained part of this country, just as much as the smart professionals who are revolutionising the IT sector of the world with their proven genius.

While modern India is self confident and optimistic and every inch the replica of any other western country, the mammoth cultural heritage of a thousand years or more, cannot be forgotten either. Look a little beyond the showy malls or past the concrete expressways and you can still witness the India of the nineteenth, eighteenth or seventeenth century co-existing with the modern globe.

Some cities are especially a rewarding experience for those in search of the India of fables and fakirs and one such destination is Haridwar. Known as ‘The Gateway to the Gods’ this city has remained for the past thousands of years the focal point of devout Hindus who want to exit the vicious circle of life and death to attain nirvana. And that all important status has been given to Haridwar by its glorious past and the holy river Ganga.

Courtesy mckaysavage via cc/Flickr

Haridwar is the first city where River Ganga enters the plains. Leaving her carefree playfulness behind, Ganga descends from mountains and through valleys to transform into the feisty incarnation of power and composure. She is the secret gateway to heaven, the holy excelsior on Earth that can erase the sins of a thousand births in one drop and take your soul straight to heaven. For Hindus, there is no greater desire than to be soaked in the mystical power of Ganga and it is for this reason that many spend a lifetime wishing to come once to Haridwar and wash away their sins on the banks of the holy river.

Legend says that Haridwar is one of the 4 places in India where a drop of immortality nectar (amrit) fell from the skies when it was retrieved by the churning of the oceans by Gods and demons. That raised the status of Haridwar to a pious strata from where it has never descended. Rather every 12 years the status is all the more glorified when almost 15 million people participate in the Kumbh Mela drowning their sorrows and sins in the biggest communal bath ever witnessed in the world.

Haridwar is also one of the most ancient cities of the world. Archaeological discoveries have shown rare artefacts between 1200 B.C. and 1700 B.C.buried in the depth of this sacred land. It finds its mention in ancient scriptures as Gangadwar, Kapila, and Mayapuri. Indeed from the time when Lord Budhha traversed these paths to the Britishers who came to colonise India, the city has witnessed the rise and fall of many emporers and empires.

Courtesy gbSk via cc/Flickr

Har-ki-Pauri – The main ghat on the river Ganga where devotees gather to bathe and pray. Evening time is especially a treat with floapting lamps covering the entire area with an ethereal glow.

Maya devi Temple – Temple in honor of the presiding Godess of Haridwar after whom it is also known as Maypuri.

Mansa Devi Temple – Atop a hill that can be reached by a cable car. The view from here is breathtaking.

Gurukul Kangri University – A centre of vedic knowledge where teaching by gurus is in traditional oral style.

Riverside bazaars – Mostly selling items related to their religious significance and thronging with small eateries.

For travellers coming from beyond the shores of India, Haridwar is a place to decipher Hinduism. To watch closely how confessions are made not to a priest, but immersed in the vastness of a sacred river that ironically is becoming blacker by the day carrying the burden of so many sins.

Courtesy NID chick via cc/Flickr

The priests chanting hymns, little urchins pulling your shirt to buy a rupees worth flower basket or the brass pitchers filled with the sacred water, the mystical hermits who can tell all about your past births and present gastrointestinal problems in one breath, the thousand and one burning incense sticks camouflaging the smells of wilting flowers, burning pyres and waste, and the flood of human mass all converging to the ghats to find their passageway to salvation, in all these cacophany of sounds,you might just find the answers.The ravaging waters of the cold, torrential Ganga might just be able to dissolve your idea of what it is to be a human being. The cleansing of the body and the soul among a strange gathering might just help you look at life from an Indian’s point of view.

As described Sri Aurbindo once, “This physical world which for us is so real and absolute and unique, seems to them (Indians) but one way of living among many others, In short, a small, chaotic, agitated and rather painful frontier on the margin of immense continents which lie behind the unexplored. “

The Haridwar experience might just help you understand yourself a little better.

Travellers always have this fascination of  taking back a memorabilia from the city they are visiting as a glorious testimony of the journey to an unknown land. While each city has its array of emporiums and curio shops addressing this very need of travellers, it is another matter and an adventure in itself to skew through the unfamiliar surroundings, bargain with the locals and finally take home a souvenir that has somehow more value attached to it because of the preceding hunt.

In Ahmedabad, the vibrant city of Gujarat, India, this discovery may happen in a street market at Law Garden. While pockets become lighter and bags in the hands grow heavier, the eyes continue to be dazzled by the great traditional shopping fiesta offered from one corner of this busy street to the other.

Law garden is called so because of the Law College in the vicinity and it is indeed a peaceful garden in the heart of the city with plenty of play area, lush green lawns, and shaded green avenues for families to spend some relaxing moments all around. But what many come here for is not the peace and tranquillity offered inside the garden gates but the hullabaloo of activities present around it.

Shopper's Paradise. Courtesy Sudhamshu via cc/Flickr

The entire boundary wall of the garden has been utilised by enterprising gujaratis to open up their tea stalls, snack shacks, gaming shops, children rides, soda shops and to the uttermost delight of many traditional apparel hunters, hundreds of shop selling authentic Gujarati costumes and jewellery.  

It seems it is festival time 365 days a year on this side of the garden that plays host to these shops. The shimmering dresses and the glittering jewellery displayed temptingly all across the street coax every passerby to give a second glance and even stop for some impulse buy.

What you can find here

  Those who have visited the states of Gujarat or Rajasthan in India may have been greeted quite often with the sight of local women wearing a voluminous long skirt called the ghagra or the lehenga with a matching top and an unstitched cloth called odni or duppatta covering their head. It is the traditional wear of this part of India made hugely popular by bollywood movies and the great Indian weddings. What you can find in the law garden street shops is exactly the same apparels and ornaments coming straight from the creators of these items. Choices are plenty and before you splurge on the first design that you find, it is wise to traverse the length of the road and shortlist the best of the best.

The Vibrant Ghagra-Choli, Courtesy sudhamshu via cc/Flickr

Here is a list of the things you can get here,

Chaniya choli or ghagra choli – The Indian version of the skirt and top these are the most common of the items in display at every shop and interestingly with the most varied designs. Owing to the creative abilities of the creator each pair of ghagra and choli is a customised work of art. Although certain design elements prevail like the use of flower motifs, mirror work, stars and colored glasses, the ultimate costume is unique in its own respect and it is hard to find two pairs the exact replica of each other. If one notices there are regional difference too in the design patterns. While the more intricate thread work is visible in the Kutchi patterns, the other gujarati designs are adorned more with mirror and glass work. But regardless of their birth place, all are hand stitched and exquisite.

Kurta Tops – Ahmedabad is known to be a very fashion conscious city and there are many who have blended western influences with ethnic Indian wear giving rise to a new breed of garments called the kurta tops that can be worn with an Indian salwar or the ubiquitous blue jeans. The amazing design choices for this particular kind of tops is endless in the law garden shops and with the price range, any sane shopper may wish to take everything home!

Angarakha/Kurta Dhoti – Men may not feel left out after all, because there are plenty of shops selling traditional Gujarati wear for men too. The typical angarakha a frock style loose kurta for men is hugely popular garment choice during the festival season from September to November when the entire country celebrates Navaratri and Diwali. It is especially worn by men performing garba dance. There are special vivid colored, small sized costumes for kids too that can make your little boy the centre of attention of any party.

Silver Jewellery – As you keep buying your dresses it is easy to accessorize them then and there with some shops selling exclusively easy- to- wear silver jewellery. Most of course are not made of the precious metal and thus priced exceedingly low. From small studs, to drop earrings to complete set of a neck piece, matching earrings and bangles you can find almost any design complimenting your buy. The best part is, the shop owners are the creators themselves and if you ask for it, you can get a particular design of your choice with matching coloured stones, made to order in minutes!

Jewels galore , courtesy mckaysavage via cc/Flickr (This particular photo is of a shop in Rishikesh but the merchandise and display is very similar to the ornament shops in Law Garden, Ahmedabad)

Bed sheets/Cushion & Bolster covers – There is no easier way to make India come alive in your home than with these amazingly beautiful hand stitched bed sheets and bed covers. The colours are as dynamic as the country itself and patterns showcase the traditional Indian love for elements of nature and wildlife. There are again plenty of designs, shapes and sizes to choose from. For those who want a special something to adorn there walls there are also many wall hangings that you can get here. Peacocks, lotuses, creepers and the lovable Indian God Ganesha, the artisans have much in store for the connoisseurs of wall art. 

Stationary – Folders, visiting card holders and pen stands get a visibly new meaning around these street shops. The designs are simple and more essentially hundred percent eco-friendly made of cloth and hardboard. They not only make good souvenirs to gift friends back home, but also can be great to portray your love for the eco-friendly goods the chic way.

Hand bags – Cloth hand bags never cease to go out of fashion and that is why here too you can see unlimited shapes and sizes of bags that can be used anywhere, from carrying college notebooks to loose change or to just ethnically accessorise a party dress.

Handy tips

• Bargain, bargain and bargain. The rule of thumb at these street shops is to give less than half of what is asked for. Do stick to your price once you have quoted it and you would surely reap the rewards of buying much more than you expected at the same price.
• Take a local with you. It is best to have a local as an aid if you are here for the first time as the shop owners are quick to recognise an outsiders especially if you come from another country. Apart from the ease in conversation, the local friend may also save you from the job of bargaining.
• When buying any apparel, whether a chaniya choli or a top, make sure that the shop owner unpacks and shows the complete set to you. There are sometimes stitching errors that go unnoticed if you do not check before you buy.
• Always dryclean the first wash as the colors run and may spoil the entire dress if not washed carefully.

To know more about Ahmedabad, visit Gujarat Tourism

So you want to avoid crowds, get in out of the summer heat, and not have to travel too far? Check out this round up of secret gems around Delaware. (And pstt—none costs more than $10 for adults, and 4 are free admission!)

1. Air Mobility Command Museum

Photo courtesy AMCM.

I visited the Air Mobility Command (AMC) Museum with my father (a pilot), and my daughters, who were then 18 months and 4. All of us had a great time, and had the place practically to ourselves. We could touch, examine, and climb into helicopters, small planes, and huge planes.

And because the hangar where the museum is housed sits just south of the Dover Air Force Base’s airstrip, you can see planes taking off and landing while you eat a picnic outside.

If You Go: Free admission and parking. Open Tuesday-Sunday from 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Closed Mondays, Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Years. 1301 Heritage Rd., Dover Air Force Base, DE 19902-5301. (302) 677-5938 or http://amcmuseum.org/index.html.

2. Delaware Folk Art Museum

Photo courtesy of the Delaware Folk Art Collection.

Nestled in Alapocas Run State Park in Wilmington, the Delaware Folk Art Museum is housed in the Blue Ball Barn. Originally a dairy barn built by A. I. DuPont, the barn has been certified eco-friendly (LEED) and reconstructed beautifully to showcase more than 120 folk art pieces. After you tour the exhibit (self-guided, with interactive touchscreens throughout), the kids can run around the 27,000 square foot playground at the park.

If You Go: Admission included with annual Delaware State Park Pass, or pay the park entrance fee. Open daily from 8:30 a.m.-4 p.m. 1914 West Park Drive, Wilmington, DE 19803. Phone: (302) 761-6952 or http://www.destateparks.com/attractions/folk-art-collection/index.asp.

3. Delaware Sports Museum

Image courtesy of the Delaware Sports Museum and Hall of Fame.

Our state’s sports hall of fame was founded in 1976, but didn’t have an actual home until 1993. Now housed at the Delaware BlueRocks’ Frawley Stadium in Wilmington, the Delaware Sports Museum has inducted more than 240 athletes, coaches, journalists, administrators and officials representing 27 different sports.

If You Go: Admission: Adults, $4, Seniors (over 50), $3, Ages 13-19, $2, 12 and under, free. Open Tuesday through Saturday, Noon-5 p.m. 801 Shipyard Dr., Wilmington, DE 19801-5154. Phone: (302) 425-3263 or www.desports.org.

4. DiscoverSea Shipwreck Museum

The Museum’s Director, Dale Clifton, Jr. fulfilled his dream of finding a real historic maritime artifact, and since then, has continued his search with the goal of educating others about our maritime history. Entrance to the DiscoverSea is free (donations are accepted). More than 10,000 objects are always on display, with other holdings on loan to other museums around the world. From china that sunk with the Titanic to Spanish coins, an undamaged sand hourglass from the early 1800s to weapons salvaged from deep below the sea’s waves, the DiscoverSea Museum is a virtual treasure trove.

If You Go: Admission: free, donations accepted. June, July, and August, Open daily 11 a.m.-8 p.m. 708 Ocean Highway, Fenwick Island, DE 19944. Phone: 302) 539-9366 or www.discoversea.com.

5. Historic Houses of Odessa

I’m always somewhat surprised when people travel to Williamsburg for historic houses, when Odessa is so much closer. And less expensive.

Historic Odessa was known as Cantwell’s Bridge back in the mid-18^th century, and it still looks much as it did back in the 1700s. Five houses make up the core of the Main Street, Odessa: the Corbit-Sharp House (c.1774); Wilson-Warner House (c. 1769); Collins-Sharp House (c. 1700); Brick Hotel (c. 1822); and Odessa Bank (c.1853). Tours are highly hands-on, and include playing colonial games, “shopping” at a general store, and telling time with a pocket watch.

If You Go: Admission: Adults $10.00; Groups, Seniors, Students $8.00, Children under 5 are free. Open March through December, Thursday through Saturday, 10 a.m.- 4:30 p.m. and Sunday 1 p.m.-4:30 p.m. (last tour is at 3 p.m.). Main Street, Odessa, DE 19730. Phone: 302.378.4119 or www.historicodessa.org.

6. Iron Hill Museum

Photo courtesy of Iron Hill Museum.

In what used to be a one room school house, the Iron Hill Museum houses a plethora of artifacts from northern Delaware, including rocks and minerals (including iron, the plentiful element from which the hill got its name), artifacts from the Lenni Lenape Native Americans, fossils from when Delaware was under an ancient sea, and much more.

If You Go: Admission: 7 and up: $2, seniors and children under 6: free. Tuesday through Friday, 9 a.m.- 2 p.m., Saturday Noon-4 p.m. 1355 Old Baltimore Pike, Newark, DE 19702. Phone: 302-368-5703 or http://www.ironhill-museum.org/

7. University of Delaware Mineralogical Museum

Photo courtesy UD Mineralogical Museum.

More than 6,000 awesome rocks and minerals await visitors at University of Delaware’s Mineralogical Museum. Sparkling crystals, metallic copper, and exotic formations of rainbow tinted growths from all over the world make up this collection.

If You Go: Admission: Free. Summer hours vary, so check the website or call 302-831-8037 for current hours. Located in Penny Hall, Academy Street, Newark, DE 19716.  http://www.udel.edu/museums/exhibitions/2009/mineralogical.html

8. Elsie Williams Doll Collection

Delaware Technical and Community College in Georgetown is the only college campus to have a collection of domestic and international dolls—more than 600, from countries as varied as Cuba and Germany. The dolls, valued at more than $100,000, are dressed in beautiful, detailed clothing, and come in all sizes and styles.

If You Go: Admission: Free. Open during library hours. Stephen J. Betze Library, Owens Campus of Delaware Technical & Community College, Route 18/404/Seashore Highway, Georgetown, Delaware, 19947. Phone: 302-856-9033, http://www.treasuresofthesea.org/other.html#doll.

For people living in coastal towns, the sea I believe becomes such an indispensable part of their lives that they can sleep without even thinking about it, trusting that it is and will always remain where they last saw them. But for us, the not so blessed travellers from the plains, who can only see the sun, sand and surf on occasional visits to such coastal towns, the visit to the sea is a dream we sleep with and the final rendezvous is like a revelation, a meeting with a gigantic, fascinating creature that makes you realise its enormity and your miniscule stature, and yet dances around your feet like someone friendly and eager to get acquainted.

For me, in spite of having visited many coasts and having seen the sea in its various moods, the excitement of watching the waves touch my feet does not cease to end and it was no different when we visited Elliot’s beach in Chennai, the capital of Tamil Nadu in Southern India.

Courtesy dwimalu via cc/Flickr

Elliot’s is one of the many beaches of Chennai that also boast of one of the longest beaches in the world-the Marina Beach. Elliot’s is in fact the southern tip of this Marina beach but calmer and more serene. Walking from a residential part of the town called Besant Nagar; it is fairly simple to reach the sea just y taking any road going towards the coast. It is although a different matter to navigate all the way to the shore with a labyrinth of sellers, selling everything from snacks, toys, shoes, ice creams to even telling your fortune with the aid of a parrot or a hamster. It may seem a nuisance sometimes when all you want is to be at peace with the deep but for many the attraction of a spicy peanut snack or a quick reading of the palm is hard to resist.

Elliot’s beach which is also known as ‘Bessei’ among the locals was discovered by the colonials who made it something of a private beach for themselves. But gradually the popularity of the beach began to grow among the natives too and soon; the beach became a frequent haunt of those who wished to avoid the crowd of Marina beach.

Courtesy Sudhamshu via cc/Flickr

Although today Elliot’s beach is as crowded as any other sea shore in Chennai, it is still a nice place to unwind with your family and kids. There are plenty of clean places to sit back and relax while the kids are busy building sand castles. The water is quite calm and cool for a refreshing dip. You can also walk along the shores, take a rented horse ride and if it feels like, visit the relatively new Goddess Lakshmi temple in the vicinity called Ashtalakshmi Kovil. There is also a church called Velanganni church frequented as a pilgrimage by many Christians.

Another noted landmark on the Elliot’s beach is Shmidt memorial, a structure in neglected condition presently but built once in the memory of a Dutch sailor who lost his life while saving a drowning man.  

The street near the beach has a good number of decent eateries that serve meals and snacks at a very affordable price.  

Elliot’s beach is for those who are happy just looking at the waves. There are no adventurous water sport activities you can participate in here but plenty of shore space to just relax and let the sea do the talking.

Courtesy VinothChander via cc/Flickr

Sun City, South Africa, used to be renowned mainly for it’s comprehensive gambling facilities, attracting gamblers from all over the world.  Now, it is known as the premier holiday resort of Africa.  Of course, gambling is still on the menu, but it is now accompanied by a complete African experience.  Golf and gaming feature heavily as the things to do in Sun City.  Also called “Africa’s Kingdom of Pleasure”, Sun City will dazzle the whole family.  Whether you like horse riding or prefer watersports, you’ll be happy.   Or, if you just like to chill-out with a cold beer or cocktail, you can do so  in one of the gourmet restaurants and bars.

Sun City Superbowl

Officially opened in 1977, Sun City, which houses the Sun City Superbowl which has seen many famous artists from all around the world perform there, has become the envy of the African entertainment industry.  Situated in the North West Province of South Africa and only two hours drive from Johannesburg, it is very easy to get to for international visitors.

Valley of the Waves

 

Pilanesburg National Park – Malaria Free

Don’t ask me how they did it, but it’s true, a malaria free safari zone.  Pilanesburg National Park, which borders the Sun City resort has, within it’s borders, all manner of wildlife including Africa’s “Big Five”, namely; the lion, white and black rhino, elephant, buffalo and leopard.   Pilanesburg National Park, at one time, had been almost ruined by the exensive settlement by commercial farmers and the resultant decline in the range and numbers of wildlife.  However, the effects have been remarkably reversed between 1979 and 1993, by the most intensive and most expensive regeneration program undertken by any game reserve in Africa at the time (Operation Genesis).

Pilanesburg National Park

Pilanesburg by Air Balloon

Gary Player Country Club Golf Course

Sun City Accommodation

There are four hotels in the Sun City resort and all of them very charming and luxurious.  The Palace of the Lost City has an interesting history and worth checking out:

The Palace of the Lost City

The Cascades

The Sun City Hotel

Cabanas

For more information about this destination please visit:

Sun City Resort

In a little village called Talala in Junagadh district of Gujarat, India, two men are avidly discussing cattle, rains and other local gossip. Under normal circumstances you would not even look twice in their direction. But here, something is visibly different. Because although the men are speaking Gujarati, the local Indian language, they do not look Gujaratis, not even Indians but people from the distant land of Africa! As you look around slowly you are confronted with hundreds of similar men and women all around you, who look Africans but are otherwise eating, speaking, living like any other Indian in India.

Welcome to the land of Siddis- the Afro-Indian tribes of the world!

Courtesy Ripple SM from Flickr

From Africa to India

It is said, that the siddis are people of different tribes of East Africa, specifically Ethiopia, who came to India centuries ago some looking for work others taken as slaves. India has since early times traded with Africa. Sea trade between east and southern Africa, and Gujarat in India was established more than 2,000 years ago. Historians also suggest that contacts between Ethiopia and India have taken place since the times of the Greco-Roman Empire. Hence, even before the first people of Africa were brought to America, Brazil and the Caribbean, the sea-trade between the continents of Asia and Africa, ensured many Africans to work live and later settle in India.

As time went by, siddis became part of India like any other community of the country and came to be highly regarded for their honesty, strength, loyalty and ability to work very hard. Some Siddi leaders established principalities like the Janjira Island and the city of Jaffrabad as early as 12^th century. Some also rose in hierarchy as noblemen in Indian courts and close confidants to rulers. A prominent Siddi figure called Malik Ambar established the city of Khirki now known as Aurangabad and was even feared by the great Mughals for his intelligence and war tactics.

The name

Siddis were not known as siddis from the beginning, because it was not a specific group of tribes from Africa that came to India but many people from many tribes.

It was mostly Muslim traders who brought them to India. These Arab traders were called Saiyeds and therefore it is believed the name Siddi was used to denote the people brought by Saiyeds.

Another theory is that this word was the term of respect in North Africa and thus the group from Africa was addressed that way.

Some Africans were also part of an Arab invasion on India in the 7^th Century by Muhammad bin Quasim and these people were earlier known as the Zanzis but later they too came to be known as Siddis.

The language

The people of Ethiopia, who came to India for work, were from different tribes with similar languages and cultural habits. But in India they were all in small groups and in the beginning though they spoke in their native language, communication became more and more indianised with Indian languages so frequently used around them.

That is why, today, they speak fluently in Gujarati in Gujarat, in Goanese in Goa and in Kannada in Karnataka, the main three regions of India where Siddis can be found.

It is like a cultural concoction where they have formed their own ethnic enclave by retaining some of the Eastern African cultural uniqueness and also adapting to the Indian way of living.

Courtesy Raveesh Vyas from Flickr

Religion

Majority of the Siddi today, are Muslims owing to the influence of the Muslim dynasty they served and also the Muslim traders. But some also follow Hinduism and Christianity in Diu, Daman, Goa and Karnataka states.

The dance

Go to any Siddi village today, and you will not find any specific habit, custom or culture that reminds you of their African past except perhaps their energetic dance called the dhamal in Gujarat. This is the Goma music and dance form which is believed to be derived from the Ngoma drumming and dance forms of East Africa.The Goma also has a spiritual significance and, at the climax of the dance, some dancers are said to be the vehicles of Siddi saints of the past.

Like the  vibrant dances Africa is associated with, this dance too performed by the Siddi youths on special occasions, is colorful, vibrant and full of life. While the dresses and face painting grab your attention initially, once the dance starts, it is the rythm and the  ritualistic chant and movement, the beating of the drums that takes you to a new high with each beat.Some also show various antics like breaking coconuts on the head or forming a human pyramid etc.

Ongoing Performance, Courtesy sanjayausta from Flickr

In a country where every few steps you will find a new custom, tradition, or ethnicity , the Siddis offer yet another global angle to the multicultural diversity of India.

Gardens take time. A beautiful garden conceals hours of planning and labor, backbreaking work preparing the soil and plants, and patient maintenance. Any gardener will tell you that there’s no such thing as an instant garden.

It’s hard to keep that reality in mind when entering the East Conservatory at Longwood Gardens, completed in 2005. This spectacular half-acre indoor garden offers visitors a stunning collection of plants, design, and ingenuity. The open vista down the center of the Conservatory, combined with dramatic black-dyed ponds and waterfalls, makes visitors feel as though they’ve stepped into a magical scene.

But as the Longwood Gardens staff and board know, magic had nothing to do with the creation of this exquisite garden. To the contrary—the journey to the opening of the East Conservatory took 20 years.

Photo via Flickr courtesy of Amber325.

The space now occupied by the East Conservatory was originally the site of the Azalea House. Pierre S. du Pont, the founder of Longwood Gardens, adored azaleas, and wanted a facility to feature them. Constructed in 1926, the Azalea House “resembled a grand exposition hall with two rows of structural columns and three sections of ridge-and-furrow roof,” according to Nathan Hayward III, Chairman of the Longwood Gardens Board of Trustees.

However, by 1967 the Azalea House needed multiple repairs. Longwood replaced the existing roof and columns with a free-span lamella arch roof. This construction, though aesthetically pleasing, had poor air circulation, which limited the types of plants that could be grown there.

Longwood’s Director, Fred Roberts, began discussing a redesign of the old Azalea House in 1985. But it was not until 1997 that Longwood partnered with the celebrated English landscape architect Sir Peter Shepheard. He proposed a new single-span roof with a tall center peak. Then, in 2001, Tres Fromme, Longwood’s planning and design leader, was appointed lead designer for the interior and entry pavilion.

Photo via Flickr courtesy of Katybeck.

Renovations to the East Conservatory began in January 2003. The challenge of constructing the building was, according to Sharon Loving, Longwood’s Horticulture Department Head, to avoid the feeling that one is entering a glass box. Selecting plants that blend in to the corners and columns, creating the illusion of box-lessness, softened the physical confines of the Conservatory.

Also, greenhouses can easily become busy and full, with plants overflowing and crowding each other. This creates a feeling of claustrophobia, the opposite impact of the intimate and distinctive garden spaces that the Conservatory’s designers wanted. Therefore, Fromme planned open spaces where “the eye can rest,” says Loving.

Immediately upon entering, visitors encounter a large water feature: an oval basin. Two large fountains, specially designed and cast in bronze, grace the pool. Each one weighs 250 pounds. The water features of the Conservatory are vital, says Loving, “because du Pont loved and used water extensively in his own gardens.”

The open vista draws visitors’ eyes to the opposite end of the Conservatory, where a large waterfall (14 feet across, 5 feet deep) quietly cascades to a dark pool. When the eye drifts upwards to the stainless steel arching tresses, which range in height from 27 feet to 35 feet, visitors will appreciate the airy and gracious sense of the space.

One doesn’t feel as though the Conservatory is a large box; instead, Tres Fromme and his design team used various tricks to break the space into intimate settings, each possessing its own distinct character. There are miniature gardens within the larger landscape. For example, the Court of Bamboo is separated from the surrounding space by two hedgerows that reach 12 to 14 feet, some of the tallest hedges growing under glass in the world. Black bamboo reaches almost to the ceiling, and visitors can sit on a granite wall for contemplation.

Across the big pond, a basin made from rare Brazilian blue granite draws the eye in the Court of Palms. At the opposite end of the Conservatory from the main entrance, the Patio of Oranges is filled with a modular arrangement of luscious citrus trees; each tree grows in an elegant custom-cast stone planter. Each container, with tree, weighs 2,000 pounds, but the planters can be moved to clear space for performing arts, educational, and social events.

Fromme and his team toured the world doing research and gathering ideas for the Conservatory. They drew largely on Moorish, French, and Modernist precedents to create the visually stimulating result. But the large scale didn’t get all the attention. Subtle touches and one-of-a-kind details grace every corner of the Conservatory.

One time-consuming special feature of the new garden is the stainless steel trellises that adorn the south and north walkways. Designed by Fromme and made by Longwood craftsman, each one took 300 man-hours to create. Bronze and mica lanterns handcrafted in New York illuminate the interior.

Fromme incorporated a triangle motif into many of the designs in the Conservatory, from the orange containers to the window frames. Even the drain grates are custom-made.

Visitors to the Conservatory can see plants growing side by side that would never coexist in the wild. Permanent year-round blooming plants balance the seasonal additions added by Longwood’s horticulturalists and tended by more than 350 gardeners.

Among the plants in the Conservatory: 30-foot tall black bamboo, a 35-foot tall Queen Palm, grand Mexican Fan palms with orange trunks, exotic Flame Trees and a nearly 100-year-old Sago palm (now extinct in the wild). In all, Longwood’s East Conservatory features nearly 140 different types of sub-tropical and Mediterranean plants.

The technology required to support such varied plant life is vast and high-tech. The Conservatory is divided into 17 different temperature zones, and a labyrinth of tunnels underneath the building allows airflow into the garden during the summer months. The plants are kept warm at night—when the automatic thermostat reduces the temperature to 45 degrees Fahrenheit—by root-zone heating. This system has a flow of 160-degree water flowing through pipes that keeps the plants’ roots warm.

The dramatic and serene beauty of this stunning building belies the years and effort put into the planning, construction, and maintenance of this superb garden. It took endless hours, large amounts of money, and a massive construction effort to bring Longwood’s East Conservatory into existence. And the visitors are the ones who get to enjoy the wonder of the garden and all the hidden delights it holds.

Image courtesy of Longwood Gardens.

Hours & Admission

Longwood opens at 9 am every day of the year. Admission is: $16 for adults; $6 (age 5-18 or anyone with valid student ID); free for 4 and under. Discounted rates are extended to groups of 15 or more paying guests.

The Chrysanthemum Festival starts October 19, and Christmas is another great time to visit Longwood, with thousands of twinkling lights and festive music.

Longwood is on US Route 1 near Kennett Square, PA, 30 miles west of Philadelphia. For information, visit www.longwoodgardens.org.

Praslin Beach courtesy of Kirikou.com

Well, you have now. Mahé is the main island in the Seychelles and renown for its timeless beauty and tranquil surroundings.  Mahé was named in honour of the 18th-century governer of Mauritius.  Some of the best beaches in the Seychelles are found here as well as the international airport and the Seychelle’s capital, Victoria.  Mahé  and it’s satellite islands, Praslin and La Digue, form the hub of the tourism trade and are known as the inner islands.  The international airport in Mahé is where all external flights land before the visitors are forwarded to their particular destination.  I say destination because, the Republic of Seychelles comprises of 115 islands, 41 of them form the worlds oldest mid-oceanic granite islands, the rest are coral and

Beau Vallon - Mahé

reef islands that appear to have been sculptured for paradise.  The group of islands known as the Seychelles lie between 480km and 1′600 km away from the coast of east Africa.  The weather is lovely, hot enough, but never too hot or cold year round.  The temperature rarely drops below 24 c or above 30 c and the winds are pleasant when you feel them.

The first record of a setttlement here was in 1770 by the French, who led a small party of whites, Africans and Indians.  The population was just 3′500 when Britain took over in 1814 and had risen to 7′000 by 1825.  Seychelles achieved independence from Britain in 1976, becoming a republic within the commonwealth community.

The ethnic mix in the Seychelles is of the creole type, with a French and African blend, including the obvious presence of Indian, Chinese and, in fact, cultures from most corners of the globe.  You will love the pace of life here and relaxing aura.  This is home to some of the worlds rarest species of flora and fauna with 20% of Mahé being taken up by the Morne Seychellois National Park, a must see if you love nature.  In fact, nearly 50% of Seychelles already limited landmass is specifically for National Parks and Reserves. 

Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve

Two must-sees in the Seychelles are Aldabra, the world’s largest raised coral atoll and Vallée de Mai, in Praslin.  Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve was inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1983 and is a natural palm forest left almost undisturbed by human interference. 

Aldabra giant tortoise

Incidently, they are estimated to weigh around 250kg, do not try to lift one! You will probably be aware that the Latin language has been used to describe every living thing known to mankind.  This creature’s name is ‘Geohelone gigantea’ which I suppose means ’something really big.’  Just for your information, the oldest known one of these died at the spritely age of 250 years old in an Indian zoo back in 2006. 

Not all of the islands have accomodation available but most of them are available as excursions.  With so many islands available you’ll be spoilt for choice in this luxurious archipelago.  There are so many things to see so for more information on available tours, flights and sights visit:

Seychelles Tours

Seychelles Hotels

Seychelles Flights

In part I of my barrio guide, we looked at the trendier neighborhoods of Buenos Aires. Here’s a look at some of the less well known and less touristy parts of town.

Las Canitas is a small yet fashionable quarter tucked between Belgrano and Palermo (bordering Avenida Luis Maria Campos and Avenida del Libertador). Polo fields and a bevy of restaurants buffet the de facto neighborhood. The gastronomical scene here is well known to Portenos and savvy expats alike.

San Telmo is the classic old Buenos Aires barrio. It’s got low-slung, elegantly decayed buildings, and a faintly precarious air. Parts can be dodgy, but that hasn’t stopped the tourists from flocking in. The warren-like cobbled streets are reminiscent of Europe and there’s a distinctly bohemian-punk yet melancholy, feel to the place. Moody Tango bars, art galleries, pubs and hostels populate the barrio. It’s where you go to feel like a nonconformist, an artist or an original.  Highlights include the Sunday feria, Plaza Dorrego, La Puerta Roja and Amerika.

Puerto Madero is a new addition to Buenos Aires. Located by the docks, this neighborhood was once a cargo terminal. Today it is quickly becoming one of the city’s poshest districts, with American style cafes and clean, wide lanes. Towering glass apartment complexes loom over the boardwalk lined sandwich vendors and the ecological reserve. Despite big name architects like Phillipe Starck and a steady injection of foreign cash, the area still is sparsely populated. It has yet parallel the style and verve of the other neighborhoods.

Belgrano lies to the north of Palermo and was once the nation’s capital, albeit for a matter weeks. The neighborhood is densely populated and can be divided into four districts: Belgrano R, Belgrano C, central Belgrano and Bajo Belgrano. Avenida Cabildo, a heavily commercialized thoroughfare runs through the heart of Belgrano. Belgrano R is a leafy residential area, with large, detached homes; here you’ll find wealthier Argentines and expatriates. Belgrano C plays host to Buenos Aires’ Chinatown or what some refer to as China street, as in actuality, it’s a small strip lined with Asian stores and restaurants.

Downtown and Microcentro: The downtown area of Buenos Aires is split into el Centro and el Microcentro. These are comprised of the neighborhoods of San Nicolas and Montserrat. Much of the city’s financial sector is located here, as are many national government buildings. This area is dense and crowded with narrow, bustling streets and distinctive buildings. Attractions include Plaza de Mayo, the Casa Rosada, Florida Street and the Obelisk on Avenida Julio de 9.

The Up and Coming ‘hoods

Almagro: This is a busy yet friendly neighborhood. Filled with trees, Almagro is a place for families. There are several parks nearby and don’t forget to check out the classic café Las Violetas.

Villa Crespo: Real estate agents have taken the liberty of branding this barrio Palermo Queens, in hopes of attracting a trendier clientele. The neighborhood, according to the inmobiliarios, is delineated by Avenidas Cordoba and Corrientes to the south, with Thames and Julian Alvarez streets marking the eastern and western boundaries. The area is unassuming and lined with narrow ‘chorizo’ style houses which extend back from their slight facades. You can find dozens of outlet stores west of Cordoba and leather shops on Murillo. Villa Crespo is home to a number of hip, puerta cerrada bars and restaurants (e.g. Club Silencio), giving the barrio a considerable cool cache amongst those in the know.

Boedo, with its greying brick buildings and narrow streets, is a somewhat scruffier affair than its more gentrified compatriots San Telmo and Palermo. However, if you’re looking for that bohemian air, Boedo’s got it. Formerly a hothouse for Tango, the neighborhood is experiencing an artistic revival, with low-key bars and underground restaurants percolating through the barrio’s more grubby parts.

Montreal is home to a great number of museums, many of which are unique in their fields. If you’re looking to spend a few days kicking around these cultural attractions, here are the top five (plus one honorable mention) you should definitely check out.

Pointe-à-Calliere
350 Place Royale (Old Montreal)

Pointe-à-Callière Museum (photo by Flickr user mechanikat)

For those visiting Montreal for the first time, the Pointe-à-Calliere Museum is a great way to get to know more about the history of Montreal. The permanent collection at this archaeological museum takes visitors to the “birthplace” of Montreal, where you can see various layers of the building, the ground it stands upon, and various treasures that have been unearthed over the years. The tour spans six centuries, and leads you underground to the old Custom House, where the gift shop is located. A live archaeological site, Pointe-à-Calliere is definitely one of the most unique museums in the city.

Special exhibits: On now until January 3, 2010, “Pirates, Privateers and Freebooters”

McCord Museum
690 Sherbrooke West (Downtown)

For more Canadian history, check out the McCord Museum, just outside the gates of McGill University. Offering educational and cultural activities, colloquia and a variety of exhibitions, this museum is consistently ranked in the top three out of all of Montreal’s museums. Their permanent exhibition, “Simply Montreal: Glimpses of a Unique City” highlights the best of our city, with everything from First Nations artifacts to beautiful photographs and assorted antiques. You can even experience the thrill of a Montreal snowstorm, no matter what time of year!

If the entry fee seems a bit too steep, summertime is a great time to experience some of the McCord’s archival holdings. Every year the museum mounts an outdoor exhibition of photos from their collection on nearby McGill College Avenue. This year’s exhibition is entitled “1 Image 2 Eyes 3D,” and explores the invention of stereoscopic photography. Twelve scenes of historical Montreal and Quebec are available in 3D, totally free of charge, until October 18.

Biodôme
4777 Pierre De Coubertin (East End)

Rockhopper penguin (photo by Ken Fallu, image coutesy of Montreal Biodôme)

The Montreal Biodôme is actually an indoor zoo, located within the Olympic Stadium complex in the east end of Montreal. Inside, you’ll find animals from the St. Lawrence marine ecosystem and Laurentian forest (i.e. in and around Montreal), as well as creatures from further afield like the tropical forest, Arctic and Antarctic. Penguins and puffins are some of the most amusing animals in the Biodôme, and they’re the final stop on the tour, saving the best for last.

Special exhibits: Until November 15, be sure to check out the visiting lemurs in “VIP Visitors from Madagascar.”

Montreal Museum of Fine Arts
1379-1380 Sherbrooke West (Downtown)

Montreal Museum of Fine Arts (photo by Flickr user caribb)

The permanent collection of the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts (or Musée des Beaux-Arts de Montreal) is housed in three different pavilions, all under one roof. Located just up the street from Concordia University, the museum is a great place to spend the day browsing some of their artwork. The museum has work from European heavyweights like Edvard Munch, Pablo Picasso, and Kees Van Dongen (who was the subject of a recent retrospective), as well as paintings by contemporary masters like Joan Miró and Quebec artist Jean-Paul Riopelle.

Special exhibits: Currently on display are “Sacred Africa II,” 48 objects from sub-Saharan Africa on loan from the Cirque du Soleil collection and the Redpath Museum and “The Body in Glass,” 19 sculptures dealing with the human figure (to September 20); “Expanding Horizons: Painting and Photography of American and Canadian Landscape 1860-1918,” 200 landscape paintings and photographs by American and Canadian artists (to Sept. 27); and Karl Monkman’s “Dance to the Berdashe” video installation (until October 4).

Canadian Centre for Architecture
1920 Baile (Downtown)

Love architecture and design? Then you’ve got to check out the Canadian Centre for Architecture, complete with sculpture garden and an impressive architecturally-themed bookstore. This museum is a fantastic place to think about design both modern and archaic, with 150 archives filled with 100,000 prints and drawings, over 60,000 photographs, 215,000 volumes, and more than 5,000 periodical titles.

The CCA is a great place to spend a day, but I must admit that I find it more than a bit ironic that, for a city seemingly obsessed with architecture, Montreal’s buildings, bridges and the highway tangle known as the Turcot Interchange (all built in the 1960s) are so poorly designed and maintained. Indeed, it seems that it has become commonplace to hear that large slabs of concrete have fallen from great heights, crushing the random people that were unfortunately situated below. Should this be how a modern city is designed and built? Where does all the money for infrastructure maintenance and repairs go? Ask one of the people at the CCA to get their professional opinion.

Just For Laughs Museum
2101 St-Laurent (Downtown)

Although it’s not technically a museum, the Just for Laughs Museum regularly appears in the Montreal Mirror’s annual Best of Montreal survey under the “Best Museum” category. Undoubtedly the work of merry pranksters, the museum often hosts a variety of comedy shows and other types of entertainment, rather than staid permanent exhibitions or items kept behind glass. If you’re visiting the city, chances are you’ll end up spotting a few shows playing at this venue, which features a number of different spaces that can cater to anyone from musicians to burlesque performers to stand-up comedians.