India is the birthplace of three world religions – Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism and the whole country is marked by many places that are of religious significance to Hindus, Buddhists and the Jains. Two particular areas in the state of Maharashtra which stand out as pious religious centers for all the three religions, as architectural marvels and also as centuries old spectators of changing history and changing religious sentiments are the caves of Ajanta and Ellora.
These UNESCO world heritage sites are located in the district of Aurangabad, NE and NW of the city with an almost 100 Km distance between them.
While living in Aurangabad, I have been lucky to have witnessed both the rock-cut architecture of Ellora and the artistic expressions of Ajanta from close quarters and will share the beauty of both as well as the city of Aurangabad in my future posts.
Today, let me elaborate more on the wonders of Ellora caves.
Seasonal waterfall at the Ellora escarpment, courtesy danchitnis from flickr
The 34 caves at Ellora, hewn from a 2 Km long escarpment, are among the most splendid examples of rock architecture in India. With each of my visits to these cave clusters, I have been continually awed by the dexterity of the craftsmen who have created such intricate shapes from solid rocks at a time when cranes and sophisticated cutting tools were unheard of. Even after so many centuries, braving weather, earthquakes, human encroachments and pollution, these architectural masterpieces stand testimony of the time that was and the people who could transform mountains to magnificent temples.
Looking back…
Historically speaking, the emergence of Ellora coincided with the decline of Buddhism and a Hindu renaissance in the 7th and 9th centuries AD India. Ellora was situated on an important trade route joining central India to the West coast and therefore I believe acted as a veritable centre of religion. With the rise and fall of great royal dynasties that propagated their religious beliefs on the masses, the caves too displayed a transition from the chiseled Buddhist art to Hindu God and Goddesses to Jain monolithic shrines in the last stages.
For the modern tourist of course, the Ellora caves stand as a dramatic amalgamation of history, culture, architecture and religion.
What to see…
The Ellora caves, as you know by now, fall into three distinct groups, Buddhist, Hindu, and Jain that are numbered starting from the southern end.
Buddhist caves – (Cave 1 to 12 created between 7th and 8th Centuries AD) The first 9 Buddhist caves are variations of viharas or monasteries filled with excellent Lord Buddha figures, Bodhisattvas and scenes from the Buddhist mythology.
Teaching Buddha at the Vishwakarma cave
Cave 10 is named Vishwakarma after the Indian God of engineering and is dominated by the figure of a huge teaching Buddha. This cave is a fine example of a Buddhist chaitya grah or a place of worship. The carvings on the cave walls are so intricate that a casual onlooker may easily mistake it to be made of wood. The remaining cave number 11 and 12 are two and three storeyed respectively and equally well carved.
Hindu caves – (Cave 13 to 29 created between 7th and 9th Centuries AD) These caves represent the peak of Ellora’s development and contain impressive sculptures of deities from the Hindu pantheon. Goddess Durga slaying the buffalo demon, Lord Vishnu as the boar- headed Varaha, or the great epics of Hindu religion, everything finds a place in stones.
Kailasnath Temple, courtesy everytin irie from flickr
The most dramatic and the most visited of the caves is Cave 16 or the Kailasnath Temple. In fact, the present entrance to the cave complex has been made in such a way that visitors automatically enter this cave ahead of all others thus ensuring a look at this master creation.
Kailsnath temple is actually a single mammoth rock cliff that was chiseled by sculptors to give the shape of Mount Kailasa, the sacred abode of Lord Shiva.
Even if you are not well versed with Hindu Gods and Goddesses, this marvel of a structure just astound you with the intricacy, huge sculptural panels and the accuracy with which it has been carved from top to bottom. With an aid of an authorized cave guide, you can easily go back in time listening to the story he narrates of the cave’s creation and how each sculpture is of utmost importance to the whole structure.
From Ravana the demon King shaking mount Kailasa, Goddess Lakshmi being bathed by two elephants to the sacrosanct Nandi pavilion, it seems there is the hand of God in the sculptor’s form in these wondrous creations.
Intricate Pillar Carvings - Cave 33, courtesy everytin irie from Flickr
Jain Caves – (Cave 30 to 34 created 9th Century AD) These caves are simpler than the other caves but not less impressive. Elephants and lions come to life here as Jain tirthankaras flank the courtyard walls. The peace and serenity felt inside the caves is something to be experienced rather than explained.
Each time I have visited the Ellora caves, I have found a different way to look and appreciate the sculpted art. Indeed, for travelers looking for a tryst with history, art and spirituality all at the same time, Ellora is a spectacular treat.
How to get there…
Ellora caves are 30 Km from Aurangabad city and can be reached by frequently plying Jeeps, Cars or Buses. Aurangabad is well connected by air, road and rail to Mumbai.
{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }
A very insightful article once again from the author. I must say the articles make me want to rediscover these places. I have been to Ellora caves before but had never realised the details and history behind the place.
I think its a complete dairy to go through,and yes it gave me a great optn for next documentary,of which my 50% work is already done by author.
the best thing is its actully starts like a travelogue.