Exploring Montreal: Verdun

by Laura Roberts on September 11, 2009 · 13 comments

I live in Verdun, a rather under-explored part of Montreal. Technically speaking, we’re a borough of the city of Montreal, though based on how tricky it is to get to Verdun from downtown Montreal by bicycle or car, some people think we’re (still) a city unto ourselves. We were amalgamated in the Great Montreal Merger of 2002 (”one island, one city”), and despite several boroughs that kicked up a big stink and were finally de-amalgamated (*cough*Westmount*cough*), Verdun remains a part of the megacity of Montreal.

I’ll let you in on a little secret, though: despite being rather difficult to access by private transport, Verdun is only 20 minutes from downtown Montreal by metro, and we’ve got far more green space than anywhere else on the island. Jealous? You will be!

St. Maria Mater Dolorosa Church at the corner of Wellington and de l'Eglise (photo by Flickr user -AX-)

Notre Dame des Sept Douleurs church at the corner of Wellington and de l'Eglise (photo by Flickr user -AX-)

We’ve also got great waterfront views of the St-Laurent River, fabulous bike paths that will take you all the way out to Lachine, and… a Natatorium?

Verdun's Natatorium (photo by Flickr user yayyoshimi)

Verdun's Natatorium (photo by Flickr user yayyoshimi)

Yup, that’s right: Verdun was a trendsetter way back in 1930, when the Art Deco style Natatorium was built. At the time, it was one of the largest public pools in Quebec, and it can currently accommodate up to 1,150 people. A large heated wading pool was added in 2005, and this pool alone can hold up to 250 kids at one time. Now that’s a natatorium!

L’École de cirque de Verdun, aka the Circus School of Verdun

L’École de cirque de Verdun, aka the Circus School of Verdun

Speaking of cultural oddities, Verdun is also home to a circus school. Although I’ve walked past the building many times, I never realized that this primary-colored structure was, in fact, the home of L’École de cirque de Verdun, aka the Circus School of Verdun. Both children and adults can take classes in the circus arts, and those who really want to run away and join the circus can take their professional training program to become certified circus performers.

That really helps explain all the clowns on unicycles I’ve been seeing lately. I was beginning to think I was going insane. Luckily for those who really are experiencing hallucinations and other mental problems (but which are hopefully not exacerbated by the clowns), Verdun is also home to a world-class mental-health facility: the Douglas Hospital. Originally dubbed “the Protestant Hospital for the Insane,” the name was changed in 1923 to honor its long-standing director, Dr. James Douglas. Currently, the hospital is affiliated with McGill University’s teaching hospital as well as the World Health Organization, and boasts a staff full of international authorities on a wide variety of mental health issues.

It may seem odd to list a mental health facility as a sight to see in Verdun, but as the Douglas takes up 170 acres of land and accounts for fully one-seventh of the borough of Verdun, it’s actually quite a nice place to visit if you’re in the area. The grounds are very picturesque and well-maintained, with a therapeutic sculpture garden on site, and the large grassy areas make great picnic spots. At one point the grounds even play host to an annual Celtic Festival, which was sadly retired in 2006 when the event’s organizer suddenly passed away. If anyone wants to pick up the reins and get it back on track, it would be a great way to treasure his memory.

Mies van der Rohe skyscrapers, Nun's Island (via imtl.org)

Mies van der Rohe skyscrapers, Nuns' Island (via imtl.org)

Finally, though not technically in Verdun, there are some architectural oddities that may intrigue visitors. From the shores of the St-Laurent, where the bike path runs along the water, you can look across the expanse and see Île des Soeurs, aka Nuns’ Island, where there are several skyscrapers designed by modernist architect Mies van der Rohe. For the true van der Rohe fan, you can even visit a (now-closed) gas station designed by the Chicago architect!

For more information on visiting or living in Verdun, be sure to check out the borough’s official homepage at ville.montreal.qc.ca. And be sure to check back next week for my guide to eating in Verdun!

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{ 13 comments… read them below or add one }

1 Mary Lamey September 12, 2009 at 7:16 am

Hi Laura,
Nice piece! I moved here from the Plateau three years ago and I love it. I’m going to link to your site from mine.

2 Laura Roberts September 12, 2009 at 9:51 am

Thanks, Mary! I just realized that I left out the most important aspect: EATING in Verdun. I’ll have to write up a Part II for next week. :)

3 Stéphanie September 14, 2009 at 6:57 am

The grounds ARE beautiful and opened to the public. In 2006, the Minister of Health officially recognized that the Douglas was much more than a hospital. With its triple mandate of caring, research and teaching, it is now named Douglas Mental Health University Institute. For short: Douglas Institute.
Nice post!

4 Les_F September 15, 2009 at 8:23 am

Hi Laura , I came across your site ,while surfing the web looking generally for Verdun or Montreal related articles or photo’s.
I like your article, & photo’s , I shared the article on our Verdun Connections site, ( on Multiply network, we were on MSN Groups for about 7 years,) We share story’s & photographs from Our past. We all lived in Verdun at some point,mostly many years ago.
I wanted to ask where you got the name of the Chyurch at Wellington & Church Avenue,..because it was always known & is still registered as Notre Dame Des -Sept Douleurs.
You are welcome to check out our Verdun site ,if you like.
http://verdunconnections2.multiply.com/
There are plenty of Msgs on the message board, also videos, Photo albums etc etc …….If you like the site you can always join it ,but have alook through.
I look forward to your next article on Food in Verdun,that was always a good subject,but much has changed in Verdun since my days there in the 60’s…….. Have Fun & Remember Verdun

5 Jenny September 30, 2009 at 3:54 pm

Hey this is a great piece! I’m temporarily staying in Verdun, and this definitely helps me to get out there and explore the area:)

6 Laura Roberts October 1, 2009 at 12:47 pm

Les: I did a Google search for the church, since the person who took the photo hadn’t labelled it, and that was the name listed. I guess someone else misnamed it on the map, as I walked past it the other day to double check and you are correct. I’ve changed the name to reflect this. Thanks for commenting, and I’ll have to check out your Verdun group!

7 connie mercier October 12, 2009 at 8:26 pm

I agree 100%….I live in verdun and it is a beautiful area with many parks and gardens. So many homes that are being renovated and upgraded. A for sale sign does not stay too long

8 Oscar December 5, 2009 at 7:48 pm

Great article! we are proud verdunois since we moved in three years ago.

9 Julia February 12, 2010 at 10:06 am

Great post, Laura! I’m so glad to discover your writings on Verdun. We moved here from the Mile End a couple of years ago and I definitely feel like it’s still a bit of a hidden gem in Montreal.

10 Norman Tobias April 2, 2010 at 11:07 am

My father’s company occupied 110 River Street, Verdun, in the 1950s and 1960s. It appears that River Street has been renamed. Does anyone know the new name of River Street?

11 Tom Darlington May 1, 2010 at 5:08 pm

I lived in verdun on fifth avenue from 1944 to 1952. We then moved to Crawford park where I resided from 1952 to 1960. I married and moved to manning avenue wher we stayed until moving to the west island in 1971. I attended the model school and then Verdun High school. I had a great time growing up in what was a hard working blue collar town. I have wonderful memories and am proud of my home town roots. All the best to those who live in a great place.. I just wish the good Mr. Mackasey had left the waterfront be.

12 Mike July 3, 2010 at 3:13 pm

Any information on Verdun Celtic please!!

13 Robert Bowles July 15, 2010 at 1:17 pm

Hi Laura, in doing some research on my beloved home town on Verdun, I came across your articles. Nicely written and very evocative. Have you tried a Woodland Pizza for a taste of Verdun era 70s

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