An image of India for many, conjures up images of ascetics in bare minimum with locks of hair towering above their head like a coiled serpent and a trident or a metal casket in their hands. Needless to say, such saints are in plenty in this birthplace of Hindu religion and though the India showcased to the world today is vary of this image, it is still an undeniable and ingrained part of this country, just as much as the smart professionals who are revolutionising the IT sector of the world with their proven genius.

While modern India is self confident and optimistic and every inch the replica of any other western country, the mammoth cultural heritage of a thousand years or more, cannot be forgotten either. Look a little beyond the showy malls or past the concrete expressways and you can still witness the India of the nineteenth, eighteenth or seventeenth century co-existing with the modern globe.

Some cities are especially a rewarding experience for those in search of the India of fables and fakirs and one such destination is Haridwar. Known as ‘The Gateway to the Gods’ this city has remained for the past thousands of years the focal point of devout Hindus who want to exit the vicious circle of life and death to attain nirvana. And that all important status has been given to Haridwar by its glorious past and the holy river Ganga.

Courtesy mckaysavage via cc/Flickr

Haridwar is the first city where River Ganga enters the plains. Leaving her carefree playfulness behind, Ganga descends from mountains and through valleys to transform into the feisty incarnation of power and composure. She is the secret gateway to heaven, the holy excelsior on Earth that can erase the sins of a thousand births in one drop and take your soul straight to heaven. For Hindus, there is no greater desire than to be soaked in the mystical power of Ganga and it is for this reason that many spend a lifetime wishing to come once to Haridwar and wash away their sins on the banks of the holy river.

Legend says that Haridwar is one of the 4 places in India where a drop of immortality nectar (amrit) fell from the skies when it was retrieved by the churning of the oceans by Gods and demons. That raised the status of Haridwar to a pious strata from where it has never descended. Rather every 12 years the status is all the more glorified when almost 15 million people participate in the Kumbh Mela drowning their sorrows and sins in the biggest communal bath ever witnessed in the world.

Haridwar is also one of the most ancient cities of the world. Archaeological discoveries have shown rare artefacts between 1200 B.C. and 1700 B.C.buried in the depth of this sacred land. It finds its mention in ancient scriptures as Gangadwar, Kapila, and Mayapuri. Indeed from the time when Lord Budhha traversed these paths to the Britishers who came to colonise India, the city has witnessed the rise and fall of many emporers and empires.

Courtesy gbSk via cc/Flickr

Har-ki-Pauri – The main ghat on the river Ganga where devotees gather to bathe and pray. Evening time is especially a treat with floapting lamps covering the entire area with an ethereal glow.

Maya devi Temple – Temple in honor of the presiding Godess of Haridwar after whom it is also known as Maypuri.

Mansa Devi Temple – Atop a hill that can be reached by a cable car. The view from here is breathtaking.

Gurukul Kangri University – A centre of vedic knowledge where teaching by gurus is in traditional oral style.

Riverside bazaars – Mostly selling items related to their religious significance and thronging with small eateries.

For travellers coming from beyond the shores of India, Haridwar is a place to decipher Hinduism. To watch closely how confessions are made not to a priest, but immersed in the vastness of a sacred river that ironically is becoming blacker by the day carrying the burden of so many sins.

Courtesy NID chick via cc/Flickr

The priests chanting hymns, little urchins pulling your shirt to buy a rupees worth flower basket or the brass pitchers filled with the sacred water, the mystical hermits who can tell all about your past births and present gastrointestinal problems in one breath, the thousand and one burning incense sticks camouflaging the smells of wilting flowers, burning pyres and waste, and the flood of human mass all converging to the ghats to find their passageway to salvation, in all these cacophany of sounds,you might just find the answers.The ravaging waters of the cold, torrential Ganga might just be able to dissolve your idea of what it is to be a human being. The cleansing of the body and the soul among a strange gathering might just help you look at life from an Indian’s point of view.

As described Sri Aurbindo once, “This physical world which for us is so real and absolute and unique, seems to them (Indians) but one way of living among many others, In short, a small, chaotic, agitated and rather painful frontier on the margin of immense continents which lie behind the unexplored. “

The Haridwar experience might just help you understand yourself a little better.

Travellers always have this fascination of  taking back a memorabilia from the city they are visiting as a glorious testimony of the journey to an unknown land. While each city has its array of emporiums and curio shops addressing this very need of travellers, it is another matter and an adventure in itself to skew through the unfamiliar surroundings, bargain with the locals and finally take home a souvenir that has somehow more value attached to it because of the preceding hunt.

In Ahmedabad, the vibrant city of Gujarat, India, this discovery may happen in a street market at Law Garden. While pockets become lighter and bags in the hands grow heavier, the eyes continue to be dazzled by the great traditional shopping fiesta offered from one corner of this busy street to the other.

Law garden is called so because of the Law College in the vicinity and it is indeed a peaceful garden in the heart of the city with plenty of play area, lush green lawns, and shaded green avenues for families to spend some relaxing moments all around. But what many come here for is not the peace and tranquillity offered inside the garden gates but the hullabaloo of activities present around it.

Shopper's Paradise. Courtesy Sudhamshu via cc/Flickr

The entire boundary wall of the garden has been utilised by enterprising gujaratis to open up their tea stalls, snack shacks, gaming shops, children rides, soda shops and to the uttermost delight of many traditional apparel hunters, hundreds of shop selling authentic Gujarati costumes and jewellery.  

It seems it is festival time 365 days a year on this side of the garden that plays host to these shops. The shimmering dresses and the glittering jewellery displayed temptingly all across the street coax every passerby to give a second glance and even stop for some impulse buy.

What you can find here

  Those who have visited the states of Gujarat or Rajasthan in India may have been greeted quite often with the sight of local women wearing a voluminous long skirt called the ghagra or the lehenga with a matching top and an unstitched cloth called odni or duppatta covering their head. It is the traditional wear of this part of India made hugely popular by bollywood movies and the great Indian weddings. What you can find in the law garden street shops is exactly the same apparels and ornaments coming straight from the creators of these items. Choices are plenty and before you splurge on the first design that you find, it is wise to traverse the length of the road and shortlist the best of the best.

The Vibrant Ghagra-Choli, Courtesy sudhamshu via cc/Flickr

Here is a list of the things you can get here,

Chaniya choli or ghagra choli – The Indian version of the skirt and top these are the most common of the items in display at every shop and interestingly with the most varied designs. Owing to the creative abilities of the creator each pair of ghagra and choli is a customised work of art. Although certain design elements prevail like the use of flower motifs, mirror work, stars and colored glasses, the ultimate costume is unique in its own respect and it is hard to find two pairs the exact replica of each other. If one notices there are regional difference too in the design patterns. While the more intricate thread work is visible in the Kutchi patterns, the other gujarati designs are adorned more with mirror and glass work. But regardless of their birth place, all are hand stitched and exquisite.

Kurta Tops – Ahmedabad is known to be a very fashion conscious city and there are many who have blended western influences with ethnic Indian wear giving rise to a new breed of garments called the kurta tops that can be worn with an Indian salwar or the ubiquitous blue jeans. The amazing design choices for this particular kind of tops is endless in the law garden shops and with the price range, any sane shopper may wish to take everything home!

Angarakha/Kurta Dhoti – Men may not feel left out after all, because there are plenty of shops selling traditional Gujarati wear for men too. The typical angarakha a frock style loose kurta for men is hugely popular garment choice during the festival season from September to November when the entire country celebrates Navaratri and Diwali. It is especially worn by men performing garba dance. There are special vivid colored, small sized costumes for kids too that can make your little boy the centre of attention of any party.

Silver Jewellery – As you keep buying your dresses it is easy to accessorize them then and there with some shops selling exclusively easy- to- wear silver jewellery. Most of course are not made of the precious metal and thus priced exceedingly low. From small studs, to drop earrings to complete set of a neck piece, matching earrings and bangles you can find almost any design complimenting your buy. The best part is, the shop owners are the creators themselves and if you ask for it, you can get a particular design of your choice with matching coloured stones, made to order in minutes!

Jewels galore , courtesy mckaysavage via cc/Flickr (This particular photo is of a shop in Rishikesh but the merchandise and display is very similar to the ornament shops in Law Garden, Ahmedabad)

Bed sheets/Cushion & Bolster covers – There is no easier way to make India come alive in your home than with these amazingly beautiful hand stitched bed sheets and bed covers. The colours are as dynamic as the country itself and patterns showcase the traditional Indian love for elements of nature and wildlife. There are again plenty of designs, shapes and sizes to choose from. For those who want a special something to adorn there walls there are also many wall hangings that you can get here. Peacocks, lotuses, creepers and the lovable Indian God Ganesha, the artisans have much in store for the connoisseurs of wall art. 

Stationary – Folders, visiting card holders and pen stands get a visibly new meaning around these street shops. The designs are simple and more essentially hundred percent eco-friendly made of cloth and hardboard. They not only make good souvenirs to gift friends back home, but also can be great to portray your love for the eco-friendly goods the chic way.

Hand bags – Cloth hand bags never cease to go out of fashion and that is why here too you can see unlimited shapes and sizes of bags that can be used anywhere, from carrying college notebooks to loose change or to just ethnically accessorise a party dress.

Handy tips

• Bargain, bargain and bargain. The rule of thumb at these street shops is to give less than half of what is asked for. Do stick to your price once you have quoted it and you would surely reap the rewards of buying much more than you expected at the same price.
• Take a local with you. It is best to have a local as an aid if you are here for the first time as the shop owners are quick to recognise an outsiders especially if you come from another country. Apart from the ease in conversation, the local friend may also save you from the job of bargaining.
• When buying any apparel, whether a chaniya choli or a top, make sure that the shop owner unpacks and shows the complete set to you. There are sometimes stitching errors that go unnoticed if you do not check before you buy.
• Always dryclean the first wash as the colors run and may spoil the entire dress if not washed carefully.

To know more about Ahmedabad, visit Gujarat Tourism

So you want to avoid crowds, get in out of the summer heat, and not have to travel too far? Check out this round up of secret gems around Delaware. (And pstt—none costs more than $10 for adults, and 4 are free admission!)

1. Air Mobility Command Museum

Photo courtesy AMCM.

I visited the Air Mobility Command (AMC) Museum with my father (a pilot), and my daughters, who were then 18 months and 4. All of us had a great time, and had the place practically to ourselves. We could touch, examine, and climb into helicopters, small planes, and huge planes.

And because the hangar where the museum is housed sits just south of the Dover Air Force Base’s airstrip, you can see planes taking off and landing while you eat a picnic outside.

If You Go: Free admission and parking. Open Tuesday-Sunday from 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Closed Mondays, Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Years. 1301 Heritage Rd., Dover Air Force Base, DE 19902-5301. (302) 677-5938 or http://amcmuseum.org/index.html.

2. Delaware Folk Art Museum

Photo courtesy of the Delaware Folk Art Collection.

Nestled in Alapocas Run State Park in Wilmington, the Delaware Folk Art Museum is housed in the Blue Ball Barn. Originally a dairy barn built by A. I. DuPont, the barn has been certified eco-friendly (LEED) and reconstructed beautifully to showcase more than 120 folk art pieces. After you tour the exhibit (self-guided, with interactive touchscreens throughout), the kids can run around the 27,000 square foot playground at the park.

If You Go: Admission included with annual Delaware State Park Pass, or pay the park entrance fee. Open daily from 8:30 a.m.-4 p.m. 1914 West Park Drive, Wilmington, DE 19803. Phone: (302) 761-6952 or http://www.destateparks.com/attractions/folk-art-collection/index.asp.

3. Delaware Sports Museum

Image courtesy of the Delaware Sports Museum and Hall of Fame.

Our state’s sports hall of fame was founded in 1976, but didn’t have an actual home until 1993. Now housed at the Delaware BlueRocks’ Frawley Stadium in Wilmington, the Delaware Sports Museum has inducted more than 240 athletes, coaches, journalists, administrators and officials representing 27 different sports.

If You Go: Admission: Adults, $4, Seniors (over 50), $3, Ages 13-19, $2, 12 and under, free. Open Tuesday through Saturday, Noon-5 p.m. 801 Shipyard Dr., Wilmington, DE 19801-5154. Phone: (302) 425-3263 or www.desports.org.

4. DiscoverSea Shipwreck Museum

The Museum’s Director, Dale Clifton, Jr. fulfilled his dream of finding a real historic maritime artifact, and since then, has continued his search with the goal of educating others about our maritime history. Entrance to the DiscoverSea is free (donations are accepted). More than 10,000 objects are always on display, with other holdings on loan to other museums around the world. From china that sunk with the Titanic to Spanish coins, an undamaged sand hourglass from the early 1800s to weapons salvaged from deep below the sea’s waves, the DiscoverSea Museum is a virtual treasure trove.

If You Go: Admission: free, donations accepted. June, July, and August, Open daily 11 a.m.-8 p.m. 708 Ocean Highway, Fenwick Island, DE 19944. Phone: 302) 539-9366 or www.discoversea.com.

5. Historic Houses of Odessa

I’m always somewhat surprised when people travel to Williamsburg for historic houses, when Odessa is so much closer. And less expensive.

Historic Odessa was known as Cantwell’s Bridge back in the mid-18^th century, and it still looks much as it did back in the 1700s. Five houses make up the core of the Main Street, Odessa: the Corbit-Sharp House (c.1774); Wilson-Warner House (c. 1769); Collins-Sharp House (c. 1700); Brick Hotel (c. 1822); and Odessa Bank (c.1853). Tours are highly hands-on, and include playing colonial games, “shopping” at a general store, and telling time with a pocket watch.

If You Go: Admission: Adults $10.00; Groups, Seniors, Students $8.00, Children under 5 are free. Open March through December, Thursday through Saturday, 10 a.m.- 4:30 p.m. and Sunday 1 p.m.-4:30 p.m. (last tour is at 3 p.m.). Main Street, Odessa, DE 19730. Phone: 302.378.4119 or www.historicodessa.org.

6. Iron Hill Museum

Photo courtesy of Iron Hill Museum.

In what used to be a one room school house, the Iron Hill Museum houses a plethora of artifacts from northern Delaware, including rocks and minerals (including iron, the plentiful element from which the hill got its name), artifacts from the Lenni Lenape Native Americans, fossils from when Delaware was under an ancient sea, and much more.

If You Go: Admission: 7 and up: $2, seniors and children under 6: free. Tuesday through Friday, 9 a.m.- 2 p.m., Saturday Noon-4 p.m. 1355 Old Baltimore Pike, Newark, DE 19702. Phone: 302-368-5703 or http://www.ironhill-museum.org/

7. University of Delaware Mineralogical Museum

Photo courtesy UD Mineralogical Museum.

More than 6,000 awesome rocks and minerals await visitors at University of Delaware’s Mineralogical Museum. Sparkling crystals, metallic copper, and exotic formations of rainbow tinted growths from all over the world make up this collection.

If You Go: Admission: Free. Summer hours vary, so check the website or call 302-831-8037 for current hours. Located in Penny Hall, Academy Street, Newark, DE 19716.  http://www.udel.edu/museums/exhibitions/2009/mineralogical.html

8. Elsie Williams Doll Collection

Delaware Technical and Community College in Georgetown is the only college campus to have a collection of domestic and international dolls—more than 600, from countries as varied as Cuba and Germany. The dolls, valued at more than $100,000, are dressed in beautiful, detailed clothing, and come in all sizes and styles.

If You Go: Admission: Free. Open during library hours. Stephen J. Betze Library, Owens Campus of Delaware Technical & Community College, Route 18/404/Seashore Highway, Georgetown, Delaware, 19947. Phone: 302-856-9033, http://www.treasuresofthesea.org/other.html#doll.

For people living in coastal towns, the sea I believe becomes such an indispensable part of their lives that they can sleep without even thinking about it, trusting that it is and will always remain where they last saw them. But for us, the not so blessed travellers from the plains, who can only see the sun, sand and surf on occasional visits to such coastal towns, the visit to the sea is a dream we sleep with and the final rendezvous is like a revelation, a meeting with a gigantic, fascinating creature that makes you realise its enormity and your miniscule stature, and yet dances around your feet like someone friendly and eager to get acquainted.

For me, in spite of having visited many coasts and having seen the sea in its various moods, the excitement of watching the waves touch my feet does not cease to end and it was no different when we visited Elliot’s beach in Chennai, the capital of Tamil Nadu in Southern India.

Courtesy dwimalu via cc/Flickr

Elliot’s is one of the many beaches of Chennai that also boast of one of the longest beaches in the world-the Marina Beach. Elliot’s is in fact the southern tip of this Marina beach but calmer and more serene. Walking from a residential part of the town called Besant Nagar; it is fairly simple to reach the sea just y taking any road going towards the coast. It is although a different matter to navigate all the way to the shore with a labyrinth of sellers, selling everything from snacks, toys, shoes, ice creams to even telling your fortune with the aid of a parrot or a hamster. It may seem a nuisance sometimes when all you want is to be at peace with the deep but for many the attraction of a spicy peanut snack or a quick reading of the palm is hard to resist.

Elliot’s beach which is also known as ‘Bessei’ among the locals was discovered by the colonials who made it something of a private beach for themselves. But gradually the popularity of the beach began to grow among the natives too and soon; the beach became a frequent haunt of those who wished to avoid the crowd of Marina beach.

Courtesy Sudhamshu via cc/Flickr

Although today Elliot’s beach is as crowded as any other sea shore in Chennai, it is still a nice place to unwind with your family and kids. There are plenty of clean places to sit back and relax while the kids are busy building sand castles. The water is quite calm and cool for a refreshing dip. You can also walk along the shores, take a rented horse ride and if it feels like, visit the relatively new Goddess Lakshmi temple in the vicinity called Ashtalakshmi Kovil. There is also a church called Velanganni church frequented as a pilgrimage by many Christians.

Another noted landmark on the Elliot’s beach is Shmidt memorial, a structure in neglected condition presently but built once in the memory of a Dutch sailor who lost his life while saving a drowning man.  

The street near the beach has a good number of decent eateries that serve meals and snacks at a very affordable price.  

Elliot’s beach is for those who are happy just looking at the waves. There are no adventurous water sport activities you can participate in here but plenty of shore space to just relax and let the sea do the talking.

Courtesy VinothChander via cc/Flickr

The Dead Sea

When we visited Jordan, we ate lunch in what was then one of the lowest restaurants on earth. But, it wasn’t low in the sense of being cheap, or because not very nice people eat there. Jordan’s Dead Sea Spa hotel is 400 metres below sea level, which is as low as you can get on the surface of the Earth.

However, since our visit, another hotel and restaurant has been built, even closer to the sea shore, which beats the Dead Sea Spa’s record.

The price of the lunch included use of the hotel’s private beach and facilities.

We were driving from Amman, the country’s capital to the ancient rock city of Petra, and had options of taking the main road, or that running along the banks of the Dead Sea. It was an easy choice, really!

The Dead Sea is an inland sea, surrounded by land on all sides. The River Jordan flows into it, as do several others. But, nothing flows out, because water can not flow uphill. It just evaporates away in the sun, leaving the water many times saltier than the oceans are. Most visitors like to bathe in the waters of the Dead Sea, because there is so much salt in it that it’s impossible to sink.

Floating in the Dead Sea

It makes it difficult to swim in, but easy to float. Many people like to be photographed floating in the sea, reading their favourite magazine. There are no fish, and very little can grow on its shores. That is why it is called the Dead Sea. We were warned we must be very careful not to swallow any water because it is poisonous. I got a little splash on my lips, and certainly would not want a mouthful!

It stung a little bit, too, where I nicked myself shaving that morning … but that nick healed in record time.Some doctors recommend bathing in the Dead Sea because the waters are said to be able to cure some skin complaints. We bought a packet of Dead Sea salt to take home and put in the bath

Salt Crystals

A lot of people like to take the ‘mud treatment’, and say that does feel good; whether it actually does you good, I am not qualified to say. Most of the beaches have a ‘mud man’ but he was not around. So, we applied the mud ourselves. You can not mistake it; it is the stuff that feels like wet talcum powder.

If you feel like a hot tub after swimming in the salt or mud, there are naturally heated hot springs and pools, and even a hot waterfall not far away. The showers at the hotel were closer, but not so much fun.

We were told that the lowest point on earth is getting lower. Jordan is a desert country, and needs a lot of water for the farmers’crops. They take the water they need from the rivers that flow into the Dead Sea. When we went on our way again, we saw a new dam being built on the Moujib River, which is one of the best known for its spectacular wadi; the narrow canyon cut through the rocks.

This means that the level of the sea is dropping. Even the Jordan River itself, with water taken from it by the Lebanese and Israelis before it even enters Jordan, is almost stagnant, and contributes little. Scientists say that, if something is not done soon … they suggested building a canal from the Red Sea … the Dead Sea will be completely dried up in about 50 years.

As children, my brother and I always looked forward to our summer holidays when we would be visiting some unknown part of India with our parents and spent glorious days frolicking and exploring a place. The memories of these visits today come in flashes and almost always revolve around particular incidents rather than the whole trip and the sightseeing. Like what I remember of Mussoorie, one of the most popular hill stations of India is not the hills or picturesque locations, but a toothbrush (a childhood treasure) bought from the town Mall that could be detached, kept in a box and joined together again to be used for brushing. I also faintly remember looking from a roadside telescope towards the peak of a hill that on keen observation looked just like a seated camel. It is only now that I know that the rock is still there and indeed known as camel rock, one of the hotspots of Mussoorie.

Courtesy crowGraphy via Flickr

Mussoorie was discovered like many other hill stations of India, by British Army personnel named Captain Young in 1820. With the hues of blue and white decking the entire region, clouds, trees, mountains and waterfalls etched like a perfectly painted picture, the small hill town was fondly known to be called as the Queen of the hills and soon became a much sorted summer destination for British officials and later also for Indians. The town was home to Sir George Everest too, the first surveyor general of India and the man who gave his name to Mount Everest. His home, Everest House is still here and can be visited.

Mussoorie lies 35 Km north of Dehradun, the provisional capital of Uttaranchal and a gateway to the Garhwal Hills. Perched on a horse-shoe shaped ridge above the Doon valley, the life in this small town centres around the Mall, the main street decked with eating joints, shops, and interesting buildings, some of the Raj era. Many fascinating items are up for grabs in the array of small shops in the Mall but what is a real bargain here, is the varied range of woollens made by the Tibetan community living in the region and working wonders on yarns for centuries.

While street shopping has its charm, the real glory of Mussoorie can be felt when you take time to wander off towards the hills. There is a ropeway from the Mall to Gun Hill, a hill called so because of the gun that was perched on the peak and fired blank exactly at mid-day to help people adjust their watches. This pre-Independence practice has now ceased however the hill still succeeds to fire-up exhilarating emotions when on a clear day it blesses mankind with heavenly view of the greater Himalayan peaks of Nandadevi, Kedarnath and Badrinath.

Kempty falls, Courtesy bijoy mohan via Flickr

Where there are the hills, there are also the waterfalls, and true enough Mussoorie has its share of gurgling water cascading down the twists and turns of the mountain paths and creating magical rhapsodies on the way. The refreshingly cold water of most of this falls, like the Kempty falls lying 12 km northwest of town, the Jharipani falls or the Bhatta falls on the Mussoorie-Deradun road, gives every visitor a chance to feel the magic of the mountains, soothing the body, mind and soul.

Mussoorie is best visited in summer months from April to June, but September till November is also a good time when the view of the Himalayan ranges is particularly awe-inspiring. Uttaranchal as a state is known to be blessed with natural beauty all around. For hikers, lovers of adventure sports, trekkers, and nature-lovers, the whole area is like a treasure trove waiting to be explored. Budget travellers and those who can travel the world with a rucksack are particularly in for a delight with the warm smiles and cool breezes giving you company all the way. Just keep your camera handy and breath-in every fraction of this picture perfect setting.

ZigZag Railway, near Lithgow, NSW

Although the trains of the ZigZag Railway, in Australia’s Blue Mountains will fascinate an enthusiast, even someone who has no interest in the machinery would admire the engineering skill that went into a line designed to overcome a serious obstacle.

The whole purpose of a railway is to reduce the friction of the wheels, to enable a heavier load to be carried for the same amount of power. That lack of friction works against the train if it has a steep slope to climb or descend. The usual way is to tunnel through the hill, avoiding the slope altogether.

'City of Lithgow' at Clarence

This, though, is very expensive, and, when they built the railway westward from Sydney in the 1860s, Engineer-in-Chief John Whitton did not have the money available to him. So, he decided to climb and descend the mountains by way of zig zags.

If you’ve ever tried to climb a hill on foot, on a bicycle or in a car, you’ll know that the easiest way up or down isn’t a direct route. It’s best to approach at an angle, and you’ll probably need to reverse direction at least once. You may have noticed that many mountain paths and roads form zig zags, usually, with a tight turn to be made at each angle.

So, when the railway reached the mountains in 1866, it needed to climb to a height of over 3000 feet. They did this by means of the Lapstone Zig Zag. This needed very little work, apart from laying the trackbed and the rails, and has now completely disappeared. But, to descend the mountains on the other side, at Clarence, much more work had to be done.

Over the next three years, the Lithgow Zig Zag was built, but, instead of just laying the track, as they had at Lapstone, they had to build bridges and short tunnels as well as the zig zag arrangement.

Clarence Station

Trains would descend down a gentle diagonal slope to a station called Top Points, where the engine would be unhitched. It would ‘run around’ to the front of the train, couple up again, then set the points to proceed further down the slope, but in the opposite direction, to Bottom Points Station. Here, the engine would ‘run around’ again, before proceeding on its way to Lithgow.

By 1907, however, traffic on the railway had increased so much that the laborious procedure on the two zigzags was causing unacceptable delays, so tunnels through the mountains were proposed to replace it. The ‘Ten Tunnels’, as they’re known, were completed in 1910; Clarence was by-passed and the Zig Zag Railway fell into disuse. The trackbed was used as a walking trail for the next 65 years.

It wasn’t until 1975 that a group of enthusiasts thought that such a fine feat of engineering ought to be preserved, and used for the purpose for which it was intended. So, it was decided to rebuild the railway, using largely volunteer labour. But, probably for reasons of economy, they laid the track to the 3’6″ (‘Country Railway’) gauge, rather than the original ‘Standard’ 4’8½”. Since this gauge was rarely, if ever, used in New South Wales, it meant that locomotives and carriages had to come from Queensland and South Australia, where it was more common.

Even now, the railway is run by the ZigZag Railway Co-operative. This, with the exception of a very few salaried employees, is a consortium of volunteer enthusiasts dedicated to the preservation of this historic formation, and the skills associated with the operation of steam trains and other veteran carriages and wagons on it.

Diesel Railcar at Clarence

On week-days, or on days of serious fire risk, they usually use a diesel railcar for the trip. It’s an old train; a vintage, metallic-finished diesel, but, on a Wednesday, or a week-end or holiday, there’s usually a steam engine running.

The coaches came from the Queensland Railway, although there are older coaches from the South Australian Railway in a siding. One of the engines is a beautifully preserved, ex-Queensland Railways unit built by Walker’s Limited, of Maryborough, Qld., in 1956.

'City of Lithgow' at Top Points Station

The round trip takes about 45 minutes, and if it’s a steam train, the engine will ‘run around’ at the Top Points and Bottom Points stations; passengers are welcome to leave the train at these times for photography, or just to stretch their legs. If you’re lucky, and can come when two trains are running, you can photograph the other train, too … preferably, as it toils up the hill. A diesel, however, doesn’t have to ‘run around’ when it changes direction; the driver merely takes up his position at the other end of the train.

At the Bottom Points Station, it’s only a short walk to the platform of the Sydney-Lithgow railway. If you’re going back to Sydney, the line will pass through the tunnels which replaced the ZigZag Railway.

If you’re going the other way, the line goes beyond Lithgow … and will, eventually, on its way to distant Perth, reach the Nullarbor Plain, and the longest stretch of straight railway track in the world. Truly, a complete contrast to the zigzags!

Vintage Carriage

At the start of the sixteenth century, India was invaded by a man named Babur who overthrew the Sultan of the day and proclaimed himself to be the ‘Emperor of India’. He eventually did manage to invade and bring a vast territory of India under his rule and thus began the great tryst of Mughals with India.

But even among the Mughals there was one emperor whose approach to governance, broad mindedness, acceptance of different religions and his intelligence not just made him a beloved king among his people but a visionary who is still respected for his great forsights. He was Mughal Emperor Mohd. Jalaluddin Akbar.

Akbar brought many changes in his lifetime, like strengthening Hindu and Muslim ties, introducing a modern system of an army owing allegiance to the state, creating a new religion that was an amalgamation of many, and also creating the first planned city of the Mughals known as Fatehpur Sikri, now also a World Heritage Site.

Sikri by Jorge Bassy- 2KPhoto.com via Flickr

Sikri

It is said that there was a Sufi saint named Salim Chisti who lived at a place called Sikri in the Vindhya mountain ranges about 26 miles from Agra. Akbar made a pilgrimage to this saint and was blessed with a son Salim (later Emperor Jahangir) and so as a token of his reverence to the saint he dreamt of building a city at Sikri that he named Fatehabad.

The new capital thus began taking shape with a unique blend of Hindu and Muslim architecture. In 1585 the construction was complete giving shape to an Emperor’s dream and one of the most enchanting works of architecture done in India.

What to see

For those visiting Agra to have a look at another Mughal masterpiece the Taj Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri will be a sharp contrast to the white marble monument as the later is predominantly made of red sand stone. Although time and weather have had there chance to ruin the splendor of the place, what remains is still remarkable and that is sensed even as you just see a glimpse of the city from a distance.

With plenty of time, a local guide and a thirst to relive the golden days of Indian history, tread on to witness one outstanding monument after another some of which are as follows,

Buland Darwaza

 Literally translated as the Mighty Door, this gate erected in 1602 AD to commemorate Akbar’s victory over Deccan is regarded as one of the biggest and grandest gateways of the world. The 13 meter flights of steps to the gate only add to its grandeur.

Jami Masjid

One of the largest mosque in India, it has a central courtyard, a hall and also tomb of royal ladies.

jami masjid by amanderson2 via Flickr

Dargah of Sheikh Salim Chisti

It is the place of worship where the emperor himself went in need of a son. Saint Salim Chisti’s dargah is still frequented by many looking for a blessing or answers to their problems. The beautiful lattice work done on the dargah is eye-catching.

Dargah by paul-simpson.org via Flickr

Anup Talao

A square water body that has pathways leading to the central platform. It is believed to be used for artistic performances as well as casual game or chat session for the Emperors and his Queens.

Turkish Sultana’s house

At the corner of the pool is this pavilion with beautiful carving adorning the ceiling.

Daulat Khan-i-Khas

It is the private chambers of the emperor himself. The structure is two storied with library and common room in the ground floor and royal bed chamber in the upper floor. This chamber has been connected well with all the queens’ chambers through corridors.

Palace of Jodha Bai

Known to be Akbar’s favorite queen, the palace of Queen Jodha Bai is the largest monument as well as the most lavish.  It has a 9 meter guarded gate to the east and also secure high walls.

Sunehra Makan

The golden house as it is called was palace of Queen Mariam-Uz-Zamani. The palace I called so because of the heavily ordained golden murals all across the palace. It also has inscription of verses written by Akbar’s brother Faizi.

Panch Mahal

It is one of the most beautifully crafted monument of Fatehpur Sikri. A five storied structure with each upper floor smaller than the one below giving a tower like appearance. The single dome kiosk at the top gives a magnificent view of the city.

Panch Mahal by paul-simpson.org via Flickr

When in Agra it is a must to reserve half a day visiting this intelligently planned city of an emperor. It was only for 13 years that the royalties lived in this city, before moving back to Agra because of water scarcity. But what remains here to this day is helping breathe life into past people and history even today.

Gloucester Docks and Oliver Cromwell

It’s a pity the Oliver Cromwell will sail no more, for she’s one of the few paddle-wheelers on British waters. She wasn’t originally built as a paddle-boat, but converted from a Dutch barge in 1990, for multi-day river cruises up the Severn from Gloucester.

Now, England isn’t exactly the first country that comes to mind when taking about river cruising The Severn is only about 220 miles long, and only navigable by larger vessels as far as Stourport, in Worcestershire. It can’t really be claimed as the longest river in England, as much of it is in Wales. But, it can safely be claimed as the longest river in Britain.

Sadly, some years ago, it was found that the cost of the inspections required to renew the Oliver Cromwell’s passenger licenses made the cruising business unprofitable so she remains moored at Alexandra Quay in Gloucester Docks as a floating hotel and restaurant.

Her owners, English Holiday Cruises, replaced her in 2000 with the Edward Elgar, an 80-tonne vessel with a length of 88 feet, which was purpose-built for cruising on the Severn. She can accommodate 22 passengers, and is the largest inland cruise boat which can provide overnight accommodation in the United Kingdom.

Edward Elgar

I recently took a short cruise on her along the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal. Since the Severn Estuary is tidal, and therefore not always available to larger shipping, it was by-passed by the canal. Ships would sail into it through the Sharpness Lock, to be man-hauled up to Gloucester.

They did, eventually, use draught horses for this task, but only after considerable opposition from the haulage gangs who had to seek work elsewhere.

Since the Gloucester and Sharpness was a ship canal, it’s much wider than the usual English narrow-boat canal, and therefore presents no obstacle to the 18-foot-wide Edward Elgar. Neither are there any locks, except at either end of the canal. There are swing bridges, but these are operated by professional bridge-keepers. Indeed, each bridge has a notice threatening dire penalties for unauthorised people attempting to operate it.

Ruddy Duck at Slimbridge

Close to the canal is the world-famous Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust’s reserve at Slimbridge, founded by the well-known naturalist Sir Peter Scott, the son of the polar explorer Robert Falcon Scott. Here, a vast variety of waterbirds can be seen. Some of them are permanent residents of the reserve; others are migrants, free to come and go as they please.

But, however far they travel, they usually come back to the Severn Estuary and Slimbridge, for they realise that, to preserve the birds, they must also preserve the wetland habitat in which they thrive.

We spent the evening moored at Purton, a short distance from the canal’s terminus at Sharpness. The Severn runs really close to the canal at this point, and erosion of the river bank threatened the integrity of the canal. So, as a preventative measure, the authorities built a sea-wall … but not from traditional building materials. They beached several redundant ships and barges which, gradually, got encroached upon by the bank itself. But, the ships aren’t forgotten; they’re still recognisable as boats, and a plaque records the name of each of them. Several individuals and businesses in the area sponsor some of them, too.

Early in the morning, I got off the boat to photograph it at its moorings. But, I forgot to take my key, and no-one else was awake yet, to let me back on board. So, to fill in the time, I took a short walk around the hulks. I’m glad I did, for nothing encapsulates the history of the canal more than the boats which sailed on it.

Aboard the Edward Elgar

Disclosure: I cruised on the Gloucester and Sharpness Canal as the guest of English Holiday Cruises (www.englishholidaycruises.co.uk). However, any opinions expressed are mine.

In India it is still fairly simple to leave urbanization behind and reach a place where the only things you run into are lush green meadows, wild flowers and quaint hill tops. These destinations are not what you will find in tourist maps, but what the path going out of a crowded city will automatically lead you to.

Saswad near the city of Pune in Maharashtra is one such destination. Hidden amidst the effervescent Sahyadri mountain ranges, the place is a jewel of an abode for someone who weighs far more importance to nature than nightlife. If you are living in Pune and desperately in need of a break or if you are a traveler dying to see the India of the small towns and villages, Saswad is a good place to begin.

Flickr photo by Swami Stream

This fledgling town has as much natural beauty as history hidden inside the walls of long forgotten fortresses and temples. In fact it has given to India many of its eminent saints, leaders and authors. Saswad was also once the epicenter of many activities of one of the greatest Maratha rulers- Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj.

Things to See and Do

The exploration of Saswad can begin right for the foot hills of the mountain one has to climb to reach the town. The valley is known as Dive ghat and has a beautiful lake call Mastani Lake built by Maratha ruler Bajirao Peshwa for lady Mastani.  As you climb along the serpentine path cut through the mountain, the view becomes ever more mesmerizing and trekking is most certainly a viable option here.

Saswad looks particularly heavenly during the monsoons and if that is the time you opt to visit, the gurgling sounds of seasonal waterfalls, cascading from every crevice down the mountain will only add to the adventure. Some of these falls are at a distance, but most are easily approachable and irresistible when all you wish to do is splash around in the cool natural springs.

Once you reach the plateau, it has its share of roadside eateries, mountain caverns turned into temples, and scattered villages, but what you see most are green pastures, fields and acres and acres of land with freshly grown figs, custard apples and sapodilla. Women and men sitting at the roadside shacks are more than eager to part with these delicious, freshly picked fruits at an easily bargained price. But be sure to buy ample as once you have tasted them you will definitely want to have some more.

One of the first historical monuments that comes into picture as you approach the town is Fort Jadhavgarh, a 300 year old fort that has been recently renovated and converted to a hotel. If you have the time and the money to spent, it is a fantastic experience in itself, with also a museum attached with the hotel.

The town itself looks sleepy, and laid back with just one main market place and fewer eating places, but as you dig deeper into the small lanes, another fort wall shows its existence. It is actually the Purandar Wada, a dilapidated structure today, but considered to be Maharashtra’s oldest standing structure of the era when Peshwas rules the kingdom. It was the residence of a minister in Peshwa’s court named Ambaji Purandare most probably in the year 1710.        

The road to Saswad and beyond is also a major pilgrimage route. There are ample temples and shrines spread within the town limits and also further at places known as Narayanpur, Jejuri, Pandharpur, Morgaon and Bhuleshwar.

Sacred Nandi Bull at Sangameshwar Temple

A temple worth a visit in Saswad more so for its historical significance rather than the religious one, is the Sangameshwar temple at the confluence of two rivers Karhe and Chambli. Dedicated to Lord Shiva and believed to be built during the Yadav era what is particularly interesting about the temple is the huge Nandi Bull adorning the path leading to the sanctum sanctorum and looking majestic in every way. During monsoons, when the rivers are overflowing, the view of the ancient temple and the water bodies is breathtaking.

A short distance from Saswad at a place called ketkawale is also a temple dedicated to Lord Balaji, which is a magnificent replica of the world famous Tirupati Balaji temple.

View from malhargad fort, Flickr photo by DraconianRain

For historians, the area is flooding with information on India’s great past. The forts of Malhargad, Vajragad, Rajgad and Torana are all located at a yawning distance from the town. Maratha Rulers were known for their ace gorilla warfare skills and the knack to built forts that lie hidden behind the great Sahyadri Mountains. There are many instances in history when the mighty Mughals attempted to scale and conquer these forts but failed. One look at the way the forts stand today is enough to realize the immense difficulty the Mughals must have faced and the brilliant architectural knowledge the people living in those era had.   

You can have an impromptu picnic at any of the many meadows you see here, or you can live for a few moments like a king in the heritage hotel in the vicinity. You can forget frozen foods and taste the goodness of farm fresh fruits for a change or you can even get yourself invited to the small huts of villagers living in the area with a big smile and even bigger hearts. You can walk, ride a bike or climb a mountain. You can even ride a wild horse grazing happily somewhere around if that is what you feel like doing.

What you can experience best in a place like Saswad, is an India untarnished, unpolished and unspoiled by commercialization. Spend a day just exploring and accepting the place as it is, and you will have seen a part of India, not shown in any guide books.