Laura’s recent post on the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center reminded me of a festival held in the National capital New Delhi, India that for decades has become a part of the city’s culture and lets the whole community bond over flowers. So here is more about Phoolwalon ki Sair.
It is that time of the year when the dust has settled down on the streets after recent showers and refreshing greenery covers all land and cityscapes. The mood in capital city of India, New Delhi is boisterous as usual with an added jest and gaiety. It is time for the annual three day celebrations of a festival that is neither Hindu nor Muslim and yet makes masses go to a part of the old city called Mehrauli where a Sufi saint and a Hindu Goddess are bedecked with flower canopies and fans.
Welcome!
It is called the festival of ‘phoolwalon ki sair’ literally meaning ‘procession of the flower sellers’ but in reality encompassing the composite culture of the national capital and the nation.
When did it Begin
It is said, during the reign of the Mughal Empire in India, and at a time when the empire was already loosing its sheen, there was a Sultan Akbar Shah II in the year 1812. He had two sons, who were more interested in merrymaking than learning the tactics of ruling a nation. However, of the two the Sultan was more interested in making the younger Mirza Jahangir as the heir Apparent denouncing the natural right of the elder son Sirajuddin Zafar.
This was not what the Britishers wanted (India was a under British rule for more than 300 years) who knew Jahangir as a reckless youth. Once when this young prince shot a fire at a british officer, the governemnt found a good oppurtunity to capture and arrest him.
The move saddened the Queen immensely and she prayed to the lords for her son’s homecoming. She promised a chadar (canopy) of flowers to be offered to the pious Dargah of Khwaja Bakhtiar Kaki of Mehrauli. When the British government finally relented and released the prince, the Queen in all her royal opulance, and with a huge troop of royalties went to the dargah to fulfill her promise.
flower fan by vvchar via wikimedia commons
The fanfare continued for several days with people from all parts of the country joining in to offer their flower canopies and flower sellers even created a pankha (fan) made out of flowers and palm leaves to be given as offering at the nearby jogimaya temple.
Thus the foundation was laid for an annual tradition that brought the whole city to the doors of two reverred holy destinations to offer their fragrant offerings.
The Revival
After 1942 Quit India movement in the country, the British government had suspended the festival for security reasons. In 1962, it was the first Prime Minister of India, Jawahar Lal Nehru who realised the deeper purpose of this festival and reinstated it with much fanfare. Since then, the three days of celebration hace always enjoyed the patronage of the ruling government and the Prime Minister makes it a point to visit atleast once and offer his prayers at the holy grounds.
Festival Today
Kathak Dancers and Quawwali singers, acrobats and fencing experts, soldiers and craftsmen, all are ready to woo the audience with their inherent talents on this occasion. The procession, led by shehnai players and dancers, and bearing large floral fans, first visits the JogiMaya Temple to offer the floral fans and then winds through Mehrauli bazar, to reach the dargah of 13th century Sufi saint, Khwaja Bakhtiyar Kaki to offer the huge and delicate chadar to the saint.
Rose petal shower by ramesh_lalwani via Flickr
Also known as Sair-e-Gul Faroshan the procession of flower-sellers is especially important to the florists who pray for a better flower season in the coming year by offering big fans, embroidered with flowers to both shrines.
What makes this part of a town a must visit during these three days is the recent addition of cultural troupes from various states of India performing at ‘Jahaz Mahal’ also in Mehrauli, which is believed to be built in the Lodhi dynasty era.
The total distance of this procession is about 30 Km and for a traveller can very well be compared to a heritage walk down the red-bricked, chaotic, bustling lanes of Old Delhi.
Amidst the fragrance of innumerable flowers, the aroma of fried Indian snacks, the rythms of divine music and the tinkering of dancers’ bells, the festival of Phoolwalon ki Sair, becomes a representation of mini-India. A memory you can easily take away of this vibrant land.
Performance at Jahaz Mahal by ramesh_lalwani via Flickr
To know more about the festival, see Phoolwaalon ki Sair
{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }
Very good article. Thanks for promoting our rich culture, heritage and history of Delhi.
Puja, I really liked it. Since long I wanted to know about this festival, due to its interesting name and the media coverage it gets every year.
Puja,
I really liked it. It was really an eye opener for me and thank you. You have brought out the composite culture of India. Well done.