“Row, row, row your boat, gently down the stream..” as you sit beside the lake in Allupuzzha in Kerala, India, this popular rhyme, inadvertently comes back to your mind. But even as you reminiscence the toddler years, the last thing in the oar bearers’ mind is to be gentle!
The snake boat race of Kerala can easily be called as one of the 1000 spectacles to see before you die. It is so vibrant, so energetic, so spirited that even a spectator can feel the rhythm as you chant the mantras of winning and shout in top of your voice to hope that your favorite boat wins the race.
When
Kerala, the coastal state of India, quoted as God’s own country charms everyone with its replesendent beauty all the year round. But if you are visiting this heaven in the months of August-September, you can also witness a festival celebration that marks harvest time and also the homecoming of beloved King Mahabali. It is during this celebration of the festival of Onam that snake boat races are held in all the major cities like Alapuzzha, Kumarkom, Kottayam, Munnar, Pallana etc.
With the boat races gaining so much popularity and fan-following, events like the Cochin carnival in the last week of December also organize the competition.
Where
With the whole state engulfed in celebrations, there are quite a few places where the calm back waters of Kerala metamorphosis to the competition grounds for boat races. Some of the popular haunts are,
Champakulam Moolam Boat Race held on the Champakulam Lake this race is said to be the oldest of all and is closely connected to the Sri Krishna Temple at Ambalappuzha.
An exotic procession of water floats, boats decorated with colorful parasols and performing arts greets the spectator before the race.
Aranmula Boat race, which is said to be more of a water fiesta than a boat race. This two day celebration has children dressed as angels and nymphs, taking part in a procession where a huge effigy of Lord Krishna is taken out. It is on the second day when the snake boats decorated with silken parasols, carrying helmsmen, oarsmen and singers assemble near the temple early in the morning and then move away in pairs, creating a magnificent pageant. The boat race is held in the afternoon.
Payippad Jalotsavam Held on the Payippad Lake near Alapuzzha, it commemorates the installation of the deity at the Subramanian Swami temple at Haripad. This celebration is for three days.
Nehru Trophy Boat Race, one of the biggest events of the year, this race takes place on the Punnamada Lake near Alapuzzha. It is here that visitors from near and far throng the banks of the lake, to witness the athletic men beat each other in the skilled art of rowing.
Over 16 snake boats or chundan vallams participate in the race along with scores of smaller crafts like the churulan, veppu, odi etc., with a prize for each category. There are separate races for women too. The race begins with a colorful pageant of floats, performing arts and decorated boats and enthralls the spectators till late in the evening.
The spectacle
Usually, a snake boat is manned by four helmsmen, 25 singers and 100-125 oarsmen, who row in unison to the fast rhythm of vanchipattu, song of the boatman. These black crafts float low in water and have a long curving stern. The prow is pointed in shape or may have a decorative knob at the end. The prow rides low in the water with the length of the Snake Boat extending behind it.
What is of utmost importance here is the rhythmic motion of the oar bearers who sit two in row along the length of the boat. In perfect harmony they row as the songs and chants begin. Like men in a trance they keep moving and swaying their body and gaining momentum as the boat cruises through the water. With speed comes also the added labor to keep rowing and it is then that the cheer of the overzealous crowd adds to the stimuli of the persevering men.
Ultimately the team work pays off as the spectators witness some nail biting finishes. Here triumph is for everyone, with one of the boats winning the race while all winning admiration of fans the world over.
The spectacular snake boat race of Kerala is one practical lesson on the power of precision, unison, hard work and teamwork.
{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }
Good, informative article for tourists.
Why is it called a Snake Boat ? Do they actually have snakes on the boat ?
An excellent article. One has to really see the boat race to get the great thrill one gets. The excellent greenery. the swerling waters and the fantastic enthusiasm of the participants and the spectators is sure to send one to real raptures. Well done.
Hi Vasant Sena,
Thanks for dropping by. The snake boat is actually called so because of its unusual length of around 135-140 ft. Also because the boat seems to resemble the hood of a hissing snake and not because snakes are on the boat. That would become one slithering experience for the oar bearers if it was so…:)
Atula