In part I of my barrio guide, we looked at the trendier neighborhoods of Buenos Aires. Here’s a look at some of the less well known and less touristy parts of town.
Las Canitas is a small yet fashionable quarter tucked between Belgrano and Palermo (bordering Avenida Luis Maria Campos and Avenida del Libertador). Polo fields and a bevy of restaurants buffet the de facto neighborhood. The gastronomical scene here is well known to Portenos and savvy expats alike.
San Telmo is the classic old Buenos Aires barrio. It’s got low-slung, elegantly decayed buildings, and a faintly precarious air. Parts can be dodgy, but that hasn’t stopped the tourists from flocking in. The warren-like cobbled streets are reminiscent of Europe and there’s a distinctly bohemian-punk yet melancholy, feel to the place. Moody Tango bars, art galleries, pubs and hostels populate the barrio. It’s where you go to feel like a nonconformist, an artist or an original. Highlights include the Sunday feria, Plaza Dorrego, La Puerta Roja and Amerika.
Puerto Madero is a new addition to Buenos Aires. Located by the docks, this neighborhood was once a cargo terminal. Today it is quickly becoming one of the city’s poshest districts, with American style cafes and clean, wide lanes. Towering glass apartment complexes loom over the boardwalk lined sandwich vendors and the ecological reserve. Despite big name architects like Phillipe Starck and a steady injection of foreign cash, the area still is sparsely populated. It has yet parallel the style and verve of the other neighborhoods.
Belgrano lies to the north of Palermo and was once the nation’s capital, albeit for a matter weeks. The neighborhood is densely populated and can be divided into four districts: Belgrano R, Belgrano C, central Belgrano and Bajo Belgrano. Avenida Cabildo, a heavily commercialized thoroughfare runs through the heart of Belgrano. Belgrano R is a leafy residential area, with large, detached homes; here you’ll find wealthier Argentines and expatriates. Belgrano C plays host to Buenos Aires’ Chinatown or what some refer to as China street, as in actuality, it’s a small strip lined with Asian stores and restaurants.
Downtown and Microcentro: The downtown area of Buenos Aires is split into el Centro and el Microcentro. These are comprised of the neighborhoods of San Nicolas and Montserrat. Much of the city’s financial sector is located here, as are many national government buildings. This area is dense and crowded with narrow, bustling streets and distinctive buildings. Attractions include Plaza de Mayo, the Casa Rosada, Florida Street and the Obelisk on Avenida Julio de 9.
The Up and Coming ‘hoods
Almagro: This is a busy yet friendly neighborhood. Filled with trees, Almagro is a place for families. There are several parks nearby and don’t forget to check out the classic café Las Violetas.
Villa Crespo: Real estate agents have taken the liberty of branding this barrio Palermo Queens, in hopes of attracting a trendier clientele. The neighborhood, according to the inmobiliarios, is delineated by Avenidas Cordoba and Corrientes to the south, with Thames and Julian Alvarez streets marking the eastern and western boundaries. The area is unassuming and lined with narrow ‘chorizo’ style houses which extend back from their slight facades. You can find dozens of outlet stores west of Cordoba and leather shops on Murillo. Villa Crespo is home to a number of hip, puerta cerrada bars and restaurants (e.g. Club Silencio), giving the barrio a considerable cool cache amongst those in the know.
Boedo, with its greying brick buildings and narrow streets, is a somewhat scruffier affair than its more gentrified compatriots San Telmo and Palermo. However, if you’re looking for that bohemian air, Boedo’s got it. Formerly a hothouse for Tango, the neighborhood is experiencing an artistic revival, with low-key bars and underground restaurants percolating through the barrio’s more grubby parts.
