by Diana Rosenthal for GiftedTravel.com
The thick scarlet carpet leads up a white marble staircase. On the third floor of the 17th century London townhouse, Rembrandt’s “The Good Samaritan” hangs beside other canvases, their paint shiny and cracked in the sunlight.
This was the home of Sir Richard Wallace, a wealthy, art-obsessed man whose widow bequeathed his extensive art collection to the public. The Wallace Collection opened as a museum in 1900.
“Sir Richard Wallace was just somebody who was collecting for his own pleasure, to invite friends and enjoy in his own home surroundings,” said Marie Mascot, a gallery attendant.
This is also how it feels when you visit: like an intimate visit to a friend’s posh art-filled townhouse. The collection has not changed since 1897. The walls are papered. The furniture is arranged. The lights are dim. You move freely from floor to floor, usually accompanied by only a few other visitors.
“It’s a really nice house with all sorts of things,” said Matt Zavislan, 12, a tourist from Colorado. Zavislan and his family, who were visiting London for the first time, came for the extensive exhibit of armor from around the world.
“He’s really obsessed,” his mother said.
“No, just with medieval stuff,” Zavislan replied.
There are also life-size knights and horses in full armor. Visitors are invited to try on replica armor.
“It was so heavy!” said Zavislan.
There are also 17th and 18th century paintings, porcelain and furniture. You’ll see many paintings by Jean Baptiste Greuze, Jean-Honore Fragonard and Diego Velazquez.
You’ll also find other family-friendly attractions, such as the often-free art classes and tours. It is easy to plan ahead, as workshops are listed on the museum website.
The child-friendly atmosphere is a unique feature of the collection, but not the defining one. The museum also attracts those who appreciate more esoteric art. Mascot considers part of the collection to be “for experienced art viewers.”
“It is a bit complicated if you don’t have knowledge,” she said, “but it is never overcrowded; you can contemplate and concentrate.”
There are the usual amenities. Gratis admission frees you to splurge on the audio guide (£3/$5.50), whose descriptions shed light on acquisitions, and highlight the most famous and important works. Café Bagatelle in the sculpture garden offers morning coffee, lunch or afternoon tea. The gift shop has a wide selection of postcard replicas of the best paintings, and art books.
Neighborhood residents like to drop in. Deborah Burks and her friend Diana live nearby. Though it was only Burks’ second visit, Diana has been here over 50 times.
“I just like the intimacy of the collection,” said Diana, who asked that her last name not be published. She could not pick a favorite piece of art, or even a favorite room, but did point out her favorite facet.
“It is a stately home, and inside it, you can identify with the way the art related to everyday life.”
The Wallace Collection is open daily, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., except Dec. 24-26. Admission is free.
Hertford House
Manchester Square
Getting there: Bond Street and Baker Street are the closest tube stations; it’s just a five-minute walk from either.
Tel: 44-20-7563-9500
